Hello all, I have a 73 C3 which my father bought used back in 78.....fast forward to 2005 and he was tired of owning it and I have owned it since then. I lasted plated and drove it back in 05 and always carried a small hammer with me everywhere because I occasionally needed to give the starter a tap to get it going. I have decided that since I have not been driving it since 05 and it has been sleeping in my attached garage ever since, It is time to go...
Anyway, I pulled the starter and sent it to a trusted rebuilder and reinstalled it...I put the shims back and thought everything would be good to go, but could only get a chatter out of it and not the normal "grunt" that the beast would make as she would turn over. I double checked all my connections, made sure I had good ground...Still no go.
I took it back to the rebuilder and he rechecked it on the bench (and I witnessed it) working good (he put on another new solenoid on just for good measure).
I brought it home and did it all over again and it still does the same thing. I pulled out my meter and checked all my connections and they are all good (B+ is 13, R is 12 only when key in on position, S is 12 only when cranking) and I even ran a booster cable ground directly from the negative batt directly to the starter.
I know the brushes in the old starter were worn right down to the metal tabs and the thrust washer in the rear was almost non existent, but I never had a problem like this with it....And it is the same starter except for new brushes, armature and solenoid and whatever other rebuild parts he installed in it. I tried loosening it off a bit and cranking it to see if it is just too tight but it still only chattered.
Am I missing something? Is it possible the engine is seized? I have always pulled it out of the garage once in the spring, and once in the fall to give it a wash, and a rip around the block...however last sping and fall I neglected to do this so it has been just over a year since I last heard it run. Now what do you recommend, as I want to get it to run so I can sell it.

 

How did you determine it is also a she?

 

Pull the spark plugs and see if it will turn. If the starter won't turn it, use a socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt. It should turn with no more than 50 ft-lb of torque.

If the battery is healthy (it is fresh, right?) and the engine still does not turn over, most likely the root cause is excessive resistance in the cranking circuit from the ignition key through the interlock, firewall, and thence to the starter harness. To check this circuit, attach a 12 gauge wire to the "S" terminal of the solenoid and touch the other end of it to the positive terminal of the alternator or the positive post of the battery. If it cranks (make sure it's in neutral!), the current is not passing freely to the S terminal of the solenoid.

 

I am with Larry that the car needs a fresh battery. At least load test the battery but if it was not changed since 05, its time.

 

Hey, thanks for the guidance....Making some headway...I now know the engine is not seized..Pulled the bottom cover and was able to turn the flyweel with normal effort, so at least it is not seized. Also did some further meter work, disconnected the batt and checked the resistance between the +12 on the starter and the "s" and when the key is in crank position I am getting 24 ohms resistance. I am thinking this is way too much. I am not sure what a "normal" resistance reading/spec is ,but if I was to guess I would say it should be no more than about 2 ohms at the most.
I seem to get a decent 12 volts all the way down so I am almost 99% sure there is high resistance in the "S" terminal circuitry. I am going to try your 12 from the batt right to the "s" and see what happens. Thanks all!!

 

Sounds like you're making progress. Let us know how it turns out!

BTW, you could also contact that 12 gauge wire from the S terminal to the batt post of the solenoid, or get a long handle screw driver and simply short across the batt post to the S terminal (if there's room) - BUT the engine will jump a bit as the starter engages and you'll lose contact - however, it can prove that the starter is good and your problem is in the cranking circuit.

 

Make sure it's in neutral or park.

 

Did you check the battery and clean the battery terminals and cables? In my experience, the cause of starter chatter is almost always caused by not getting enough AMPS to the starter. You can have 12 volts and low amps due to a weak battery or poor connections at the battery or the ground from the battery and you won't get enough AMPS to turn it over.

 

What would be the best/easiest way to check how many amps/current draw?
I have a fluke inductive clamp meter, as well as my regular fluke 16, I think the inductive clamp is only good for ac though.

 

bad battery
bad flywheel teeth
wrong connections
bad ground
no power from the ignition to the starter solenoid

 

It's temperamental and costs him money, it's a woman....

On the subject, I've read a few starter motor problem threads lately. Are the mini starters any more beneficial/reliable than the stock?

 

Cheapest check would be take the battery to a parts place.

They load test it free.

I agree that all the voltage, may appear fine, but the amperage is where the battery has failed, especially if it hasn't been cranked in a while.

I wouldn't mess with too much until checking that.

 

Nope, thats a bunch of BS.....and normally an excuse for something else.

 

Good to know. Thanks.