1980 Power Steering Control Valve
#1
Racer
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1980 Power Steering Control Valve
I'm replacing my P/S control valve and have a question.
I removed the old one, and replaced it with a rebuilt unit, but before filling the system, I happened to notice that the driver's side rotor appeared to toe in more than the passenger side.
The car had always ran straight as an arrow on the road and everything was taken apart and put together with the steering wheel locked in the straight position. I re-attached the pitman arm by moving the wheels until it lined up with the stud on the valve and bolted it on, but still had a feeling that something wasn't quite right.
I figured that with the tires off and the suspension hanging, I might be getting a false impression of what was happening, so I put the wheels back on and ran it down the driveway and back to settle things into a more normal position.
The car seemed to wander a bit in reverse and in forward, the steering wheel had a mind of it's own like there was a gross misalignment in the front end, but I didn't touch anything.
I should say that it could have been brake pull. I was braking the entire time to a degree and the car has been parked for weeks and the rotors might have had some surface rust on them.
My question (finally) is: Is the valve supposed to be threaded completely onto the boss on the radius rod or is there and adjustment there? There's no mention of this in the manual and it seemed to be threaded all the way on when I took it off. There were no rusted, exposed threads that I remember at least.
Tomorrow I plan to fill and bleed the system, adjust the valve if needed and take it for a ride.
Have I missed something or altered something without realizing it?
I removed the old one, and replaced it with a rebuilt unit, but before filling the system, I happened to notice that the driver's side rotor appeared to toe in more than the passenger side.
The car had always ran straight as an arrow on the road and everything was taken apart and put together with the steering wheel locked in the straight position. I re-attached the pitman arm by moving the wheels until it lined up with the stud on the valve and bolted it on, but still had a feeling that something wasn't quite right.
I figured that with the tires off and the suspension hanging, I might be getting a false impression of what was happening, so I put the wheels back on and ran it down the driveway and back to settle things into a more normal position.
The car seemed to wander a bit in reverse and in forward, the steering wheel had a mind of it's own like there was a gross misalignment in the front end, but I didn't touch anything.
I should say that it could have been brake pull. I was braking the entire time to a degree and the car has been parked for weeks and the rotors might have had some surface rust on them.
My question (finally) is: Is the valve supposed to be threaded completely onto the boss on the radius rod or is there and adjustment there? There's no mention of this in the manual and it seemed to be threaded all the way on when I took it off. There were no rusted, exposed threads that I remember at least.
Tomorrow I plan to fill and bleed the system, adjust the valve if needed and take it for a ride.
Have I missed something or altered something without realizing it?
#3
Racer
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Member Since: Nov 2009
Location: Watkins Glen New York
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I noticed that early in the game. I had that bolt started in the clamp and was unable to get the thing beyond a thread or 2.
I removed the bolt and it went right on. When it was threaded all the way onto the radius rod, that clamp bolt went right in implying that it was where it was and should be.
Thanks.
I removed the bolt and it went right on. When it was threaded all the way onto the radius rod, that clamp bolt went right in implying that it was where it was and should be.
Thanks.
#5
Racer
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That's exactly what I thought and how it seems it should be.
There's a lot of differing info around regarding the position of the valve relative to the radius rod, but all the way on seems to be the only way to insert the clamp bolt.
I've read posts about counting the turns while removing the old one and marking it's position prior to removing it.
There's a lot of differing info around regarding the position of the valve relative to the radius rod, but all the way on seems to be the only way to insert the clamp bolt.
I've read posts about counting the turns while removing the old one and marking it's position prior to removing it.