Lots of good discussion about building engines and the trade-off between cost and power targets.

I thought I'd post a poll to gather some general thinking about this - if you were to do a build, how would you decide on the budget?

 

For what most of us here are doing I can't imagine spending more than 10k for a motor unless your going to make it one hell of a drag car, or maybe a super duper blown show car.

 

And for many people, its not how much they can spend, its how much they would spend...

 

0-$5000 is a helluva jump! Do you think you can hit the reasonable $3000 mark???

 

"$5K would be about the max. "

I think that embraces $3000 - don't you?

 

....which is why so many projects end up on the stand for years on end, and why I always push budget as discussion #1

Most common discussion in my garage:

"I want 500 HP!"

That's around 10-12K. Plus.

"Um. What can I get for about 5K?"

 

I will be near $10K when I've finished with my ongoing build. If headers count as part of an engine build I'm over $5K now and will be over $10K if I go with the Dart 427 SBC short block.

 

Good point. I plan on an engine upgrade/rebuild one day, and $3,000 is around my limit based upon what I want to spend vs what I can spend.

 

To answer the poll question, I would have to say I'm in the 5 grand max category.

I'd like to ask you a question, Billla. What would you say, in terms of horsepower per cubic inch, is the "sweet spot", where you end up getting the most for your money. 1 horsepower per cubic inch? 1.2 maybe?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

The cost curve starts bending up at about 1 HP/CID and goes geometric at about 1.4 HP/CID for a non-power-adder build.

The range of ~1-1.1 HP/CID is the "sweet spot" in my experience. That's basically a good performance overhaul with very little additional dollars spent strictly for peformance. And as I've noted before, very few folks have felt an *honest* 350 or 400 FWHP and it never fails to make smiles. MOAR is nice...if you have the money

There are, of course, always exceptions (both ways) and the devil is in the details

 

Starting with the .060 454 block I have, I'm still looking in the 7-8k range. But I'm planning on a bulletproof bottom end too. Callie's crank, Oliver rods, still looking at pistons and the rest of the assorted parts- cam/lifters/heads.

 

It's hard to get much from your poll Billa, there is no two builds alike. There are soooo many little things that can change the price by heaps. Re-cycling bolt-ons can save a wad of money but they usually get changed out. One bloke asked about including the headers (often required), that can range from a few hundred to over a thousand. More power means more heat so do you include cooling upgrades? I don't know how you engine builders quote - I guess in very 'round' figures. I know customers have to have some idea and the builder needs some direction but gee, its not easy for either.

Bud

 

Voted $0, as my build (and other projects) are on hold awaiting sufficient funds, but if I'm ever able to complete my latest 427 BB build I'll probably have ~$15K in it, from pan to breather. For anyone questioning why such an expense, IMCO I think that's getting off rather cheap for a N/A, all motor build when targeting >1.3 HP/CID, >325 HP/TON.

 

Bud, the poll is about what you as an owner could afford to spend for an engine build - not the details of the build, simply a feel for what owners could afford.

 

0 income has dropped 80% for me.
Always find a way though..they go together slow, gather parts here and there when I can.

Last sbc I did pan to carb with everthing quit counting at 13k
Much of it was unnecessary. Not many running around on the street like it though. Most have more common sense than I

Got my eye on a 454 4 bolt block for the next.
Still might breathe some boost into this one someday.

Sickness I tell ya!

 

My poll response will be skewed by the way I am forced to build any project... I set the parameters, make a plan and assemble only as funding becomes available. This method can (and does) make projects take forever, but I never find myself wishing I had done something differently because I could not afford it all at once.

 

I think we need some guide lines. Starting from scratch buying everything, or rebuilding an exsisting engine. Buying from scratch between 5 and 10 but on a rebuild 5 or below on an average build.
I'm doing two for myself right now, one will be near the 10 figure and the other near the 5.
The first is Dart little M large set of Aluminum heads a bunch of crower stuff. The other a OEM rebuild either a 383 or a 350 whatever I decide for a strong driver.
Sometime I think guys get to hung up on numbers with regard to horsepower. 500 is a nice big number but there have been plenty of lesser HP engines that make great driving cars. For a driver with power is 500 the magic number, or is it just so a guy can say he's got a 500 HP vette? For general driving that number can create a less comfortable driver.
That's why I'm doing two now. The Dart car is my 75 4 speed. For messing around and cruise-in's the 71 ( the cheaper engine ) will be for extended trips and more comfortable less work driving. I don't think I'd enjoy as much a drive to the coast with luggage strapped to the carrier in a gas sucking .600 or so lift roller 434.
So I guess after all this typing what I'm getting at is it depends somewhat on the intended use. A good 350 to 400 HP nice driver, at or below the 5 number.
Good point Bud, How's the build going?

 

I bought a 79 in February that immediately needed an engine rebuild. I decided to get it built up and told my builder to aim for 425-450HP and was quoted between $7-8k as a rough estimate. I just got it back and because of extra machine work (the entire block needed machining) that needed to be done on the block, cost about $9-10k, but is making closer to 500HP than the original estimate. So, 10k was my vote based on experience

 

Remember, folks - the question isn't what it SHOULD or DID cost...it's what would you spend if you had to do it.

 

5k, this means SBC maybe stroked. No LS or LTs for me