I have a 1980 with the ZZ4 engine and it has the original 1980 q jet on it which behaves in weird ways. It seams to open all 4 barrels I am pushing my gas peddle into the floor pan . the linkages move freely and the springs are not to tight. So it is not a hard push it is simply I have to mash the gas and push down hard to get a full throttle pull. And when in a straight line punching it seams powerful but nothing like when I am turning the car right

When I make a right turn and punch it it seams to wake up as if I added 100 hp nitro shot. The tires scream the car slides sideways and pulls like a drop from a roller coaster it screams ahead hits second barks tires with a loud squeal and acts like it will never stop pulling. To me it should jump like this no matter if I turn , go straight or go in reverse.

ZZ4, headers 2.5 true duals to magna flows , 3.55 rear gears , stock tire size , 93 octane , stock q jet with eldlbrock intake that to me looks like a aluminum replacement to the oem.

So anyone have any ides that are not go buy a holley LOL.. Although I ponder making that switch strongly.

 

Look for member 'LARS' he's the forum expert.

 

 

you have to push pedal into the floor pan,
Do you have the cable attached to the correct point on the carb. should be the lower hole closest to the throttle shaft. not the upper one, with the throttle plates closed.

 

I agree with checking the linkage at the carb. Also, after years of people smashing the pedal to the floor, the pedal linkage can get bent.

On the right turn thing, I'm wondering if the float arms might be rubbing a little, and when you turn right it frees it up? I would think that whatever that is, it's something binding in the carb, the float, the needle, or the piston, or rods.

Or, I just thought of another thing. Since you specifically say right hand turns, the spring that allows the secondaries to open is on the left hand side of the carb, maybe something is causing it to bind, and the added pressure of the turn frees it up? It might also be the secondary rods are binding, causing the flaps not to open. Check to see how much pressure is required to open the secondary flaps manually, then try again while lightly pressing on the spring adjustment screw. Also try while lightly pressing on the secondary rod hanger from the passenger side to simulate presure of a right hand turn. I guess you could also remove the screw from the top of the hanger, and lift the rods out, they should not be binding at all, if they are, gently bend the hanger until they are not binding at all.

Also, Lars is one of the most helpfull people on the face of the earth, and definately one of the premier experts on carbs. His email address is V8FastCars@msn.com

 

Some good ideas guys ,, I have sent Lars an email and await his advice.

I do push the peddle into the floor pan like I am Fred Flintstone wanting to get my feet down to push the car forward lol..

As far as linkage from what i can tell it all moves well but I am going to go make sure because I have something to check from you guys here !

And mashman your advice sounds sound if I only knew what most of it was !!! BUT you handle on here matches my issue so I am betting your on the right track..

If any of you have not seen the car here she is ,, Restored in 2007 garaged with the exception of 1500 miles added from 2007.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/715/1000192py.jpg/

 

Just a finish to this topic , first thanks to all including LARS ,,

A few issues solved , accelerator cable was not pulling throttle open all the way

Carb running really rich

I decided instead of getting a small collage education on the q-jet to put a holley 750 on her. cured all carb issues from idle to max rpm

It was during this change I found and corrected accelerator cable issue , And discovered the after market air cleaner interfered with the linkage so I put the factory on for now .