When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I did a few measurements and came up with this sketch for an enclosure of two ten inch subs and an amp.. I think it will fit o.k. What do you guys think? I made sure to only make it 7 inches deep so i could still make room for the t-tops. What kind of material should it be made out of? Plywood?
ahh yes fibreboard :conehead should i even bother to try and build something like this or just get a custom audio place to make it...? i haven't build any sort of sound system before.. i don't know much about vents, or proper construction or anything like that.. as for the cubic space the subs need i have no idea... they are the jensen 10 inch 400 watt i thiiinnkkk maybe 300..
I worked at a place here in Regina called Innovation Audio. Learnt alot while there. If you get all your measurments on a piece of paper a place like Home Depot might cut all the pieces for you. I think the first 5 cuts are free. Next door to the audio place was a place called Pro Woodcraft....an old guy that does awesome woodworking so all boxes were contracted out to him. He air nailed all the boxes together but i'd rather counter sink long wood screws into the wood, much stronger. To make the box yourself might cost 15-20 bucks. To have it made will be something like 150-200.
Your plan is good but it would work better having the subs face up. I can't explain why technically, but the sound bouncing off the rear window and the way it is shaped produced some very high spl's for me. I did 142db in my 79. I think it has something to do with the sound building pressure in the rear area area and being thrown towards the front of the car. Interestingly the loudest area in my car was where the passangers feet would go but that's not where the sound get's measured.
the subs should hit much louder if they are pointed upwards, the sound will travel down and then bounce off the floor, at least that's my understanding of it...
No, I beleive MDF is made of compressed saw dust and glue. Something like that anyway.
Particle board is just as good as MDF in this situation. The big thing with MDF is that the glue used is very toxic. The dust from cutting MDF is carcenogenic. BEWARE!
I agree with Aaron where he suggests using counter sunk screws instead of nails. Also glue every join as well before screwing them.
I built a single 10"sub enclosure with speaker boxes for my 77 using particle board only because I had some already. As Aaron noted, you have to calculate the necessary air capacity for the amp inside the box. You just can't make any kind of box and expect it to work as it should. Good luck.
Build 'em yoursellf - its' fun and you'll get a great sense of accomplishment when they sound awesome. One more tidbit: in addition to gluing and screwing, go back later and caulk all joints from the inside of the box - it's important to have it well sealed. The instructions that came with your drivers should give you the info you need to calculate the correct box volume. This site will help a lot in the design and it calculates everything for you. http://www.globalnode.com/users/stevenr/spkrs/
From what I understand the subs will definately sound better when either pointed up or down to the floor (like a sub-woofer on a home theater system is). Also if you go to a fabric supply house you can get trunk lining material and cover the cabined before installing the subs. 3M makes a real good spray and glue product for that. I have looked all over my 76 for a place that would be good for subs and amps, but have not been able to come up with anything. I was going to build up the floor and remove one of the storage compartment doors (probably over the battery) so that the bottom of the sub would fit into there. Putting the front half of the sub-floor on hinges so that the battery compartment is accessable if necessary.
Good luck,
JoeB
This might have already come up but make sure you subtract the width of the board (whatever yo ugo with) from the volume...said another way, make sure you are measuring the volume INSIDE the box. Your sketch looks like it's all going to be 90 degree angles; that's the perfect thing for a first box (not that they are hard but it simplifies things a bit). Good Luck!!
As someone who has worked in the kitchen remodeling business for some tme, and built my own cabinets, and used to years ago design and build my own home stereo speakers...
I can tell you that MDF today is NOT carcenogenic...
second off, power nailing it is much better than screws...reason....screws will split the material and will not hold much at all...use plenty of yellow elmers carpenters glue...and power nails...
MDF like any wood product is bad about water, so make sure you car is water tite...MDF will swell and completely disintegrate with water....quickly...
with P lam....Formica...over it, it's used for kitchen counter tops....because it's expansion/contraction charactoristics match that of P lam very closely, and it lies flat without bowing...glues easily....