Has anyone ever heard this. It's supose to clean up carbon on the valves and cylinders? I know they sell carbon stuff you pour into the carb but the guy said to just use water?

 

this is a old time trick to clean carbon and it works because if you ever saw a head that had a head gasket leaking you would be suprised how clean the head and piston are. take the engine up to 3000 rpm and SLOWLY pour the water into the carb. a pop bottle full should do the trick. :chevy

 

Yes I've heard of it but don't know if it works or not. Your supposed to dribble it in as you raise the rpm so as to keep the motor running. I know you must be careful not to pour to much water cuz water won't compress and very bad things could happen.

 

Yep - used to do it all the time on my old muscle cars. Just pour it slowly and keep the rpm's up - works like a charm!

 

Just remember that the carbon you lose may be the seal that is holding in the oil. :yesnod:

 

They used to sell a water injection kit that would work as your drove. The amount of water directed into the car was adjustable. I had one of these at one time but removed it. The engine suffered no damage and is still in the car.

 

My boss did this to his 69 Vette while i watched ; he said colder the water the better. He used to put a bottle of water in the icebox for a while then do it. You will REALLY get some white smoke coming out the exhaust , so, id do this in a remote place , otherwise your neighbors will call the Fire Dept.for sure.

I once did some damage following the directions on a can of pour-in engine cleaner ; it said to pour it in until the engine stalled, then wait 5 minutes before restarting. When i did restart it, it felt like i had a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod. So...pour it in VERY slowly if your going to do it.

RR

 

i use to have water injection on my 76 vette ..it had .500 domed pistons in my 327 and it helped alot when i pulled down the motor the pistons were clean as when i installed them new.Also use to pour it down thecarb. on a few cj5 jeeps we worked on that would build up carbon alot..so i would pour water down slowely at 2500 or more rpms and it would clean it right up..

 

I would have to agree with these post's. My 86 Cp has a Carroll Supercharger system with water injection controled by a seperate computer. Carroll recomends adding denatured alcohol but no more then 40% to the water bladder in the system. This system has been on my Vette for the past 7 years and the motor idols like a top and never drops a beat. Of course I have tried a little bit more alcohol just for fun. The alcohol is their to prevent winter freez up's not for power. How ever, it does add power when you dump just a bit more in. The water injection system helps in the summer or just be for you want to launch the car. I just hit the test switch on the water pump and step up the RPM'S and it cools the intake plenum down and the runners as well as the motor. So a little shot of water can be good.

Mark.... 65 Dual Quad Cp..... 86 Vortec Blown Cp... 73 460 Cop Motor Thunderchicken

 

I think if you try this crap you are asking for trouble, Maybe in the good old days they had carbon build-up with leaded gas. With unleaded gas the carbon build is long gone with the horse and buggy. Change you oil and keep your engine tuned and enjoy. Way to many Bubbas doing a lot of Bubba fixes

 

73-454:
I don't see how this is considered a "bubba fix" :confused:? It's a perfectly good and effective way of removing carbon build-up. You say that carbon build-up has disappeared with the advent of unleaded gas? Judging by that statement I would say that you have never torn down an engine before. Carbon deposits are still a common thing my friend.

 

i totally agree with bence.my race motors i tear down down at the end of the year have carbon buildup on them and they stay at sustained rpms at 6500 or higher and on 106 octane race gas too.

 

Say what? Gasoline is a hydroCARBON, regardless of whether it's leaded or not. :rolleyes: Carbon buildup is still an issue, and the water in the carb trick still works today.

But one more time: pour it in SLOWLY ... :yesnod:

 

...and pour it in with the engine RUNNING!

*We wouldn't want anyone to make a boo-boo :D

 

... at 2500 - 3000 rpm ... :lol:

 

I used to pour in automatic transmission fluid to do this. Smokes more, lubricates a bit as you do it I guess, cleans things nicely - or so I was told. Water is probalby just as good, and cheaper too.

 

I have heard of the trans fluid thing before. Never tried it though. I found this stuff at NAPA that work great. It is called Sea Foam and comes in this aqua can with a logo that looks like it came out in the 50's. I used that stuff in my Blazer and it did wonders. Removed enough carbon that I dropped the octane I used from 93 to 89. I also run Marvel Mystery Oil in the top and bottom of the engine to help lubricate.

Mark B.

 

The engine should be real hot before you pour the water into the carb. You might want to block some of the radiator with cardboard to keep the engine hot. It is the cold water hitting the hot carbon that breaks up the carbon. You have to pour the water in very slowly.


[Modified by 73Ken73, 9:31 AM 5/25/2002]

 

Why not use a VERY FINE MIST from water hose - direct it into carb ??

:cheers:


[Modified by shawn_cake, 8:57 AM 5/25/2002]

 

________________________________________ ______________________
There's absolutely NOTHING Bubba about doing this! I've used this technique for the last 25 yrs! Even though I've chosen to graduate to GM's 'Top Engine Cleaner' these days. It's a method used to avoid tearing engines down to remove excessive combustion chamber buildup. Carbon is a 'bi-product' of burning gasoline, not to mention the oil that ends up in the chamber. Even considering todays gas has more detergent value to it, buildup still occurs.
There is still risks in using water to do this! I feel that the T.E.C. method reduces the risk for the same result. The method I use for H2O is: bring engine to normal oper temp. Remove air cleaner, plug any open vacuum ports. Raise and hold RPM's to approx 2500 - 3800. SLOWLY, trickle H2O down the primary carb bores, giving both equal amts. If eng starts to stall down, reduce the given amt. I'll normally use a lg paper coffee cup, as I feel this amt does the job and the container is easier to control. (I say forget the garden hose method, as it's hard to keep track of the amt ingested, and can get out of control) And what ever you do, wear safety glasses, and keep your face away from the top of the carb! I'll follow-up by removing the spark plugs, cleaning/repl them. And changing the oil after this is not a bad practice.
And 73-454, your engine is prob in need of this too! :lol:
Be careful and good luck -Rod :chevy