Front Crossover Brake Line
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 103
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From: Warren MI
Front Crossover Brake Line
Anyone ever replace a front crossover brake line?
On a '78 I've got everything loose but just wondering if there was a trick to it or what has to be removed to get it out? I just started to remove the fan shroud to see if that would give me a bit more room. Still going to probably need to bend it, hoping that it won't be too much to spring back.
It would be a no-brainer without an engine but...........
On a '78 I've got everything loose but just wondering if there was a trick to it or what has to be removed to get it out? I just started to remove the fan shroud to see if that would give me a bit more room. Still going to probably need to bend it, hoping that it won't be too much to spring back.
It would be a no-brainer without an engine but...........
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,670
Likes: 695
From: Danville Illinois
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
2021 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Oh yes, its fun. Just did it 3 months ago.
First and foremost you need to do it on a rack, i would not try this without it. Would be a pain other wise. Took two guys 3 hours start to finish, lunch and parts run included.
I didn't remove the radiator fan shroud, undo the brackets holding the line, 6-8 i think. we started at the junction block that runs the line towards the front of the frame. Its under the master cylinder and down a little.
When replacing it start at the same place but leave the bolts loose till everything is installed.
It has to be re-bent as you go along, not much just a small amount.
Have some pics if they would help.
First and foremost you need to do it on a rack, i would not try this without it. Would be a pain other wise. Took two guys 3 hours start to finish, lunch and parts run included.
I didn't remove the radiator fan shroud, undo the brackets holding the line, 6-8 i think. we started at the junction block that runs the line towards the front of the frame. Its under the master cylinder and down a little.
When replacing it start at the same place but leave the bolts loose till everything is installed.
It has to be re-bent as you go along, not much just a small amount.
Have some pics if they would help.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 4
From: Okinawa Okinawa
Not too much to this job. Took a couple hours and had a few small bends to make. My shroud was already out because I was replacing engine. If you run into a tight spot, you may want to loosen the fan shroud enough to move it a 1/2 in or so to get the line through.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Warren MI
Vehicle hadn't been started since 2001. No problem staring but pedal went to floor because of leaking calipers. Wheels and calipers are off. It's on jack stands, so it isn't going anywhere.
Well, at least I now know that it's doable but going to be a PITA.
Well, at least I now know that it's doable but going to be a PITA.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Mine went is as already described, but have one suggestion. If you don't have a good line wrench, buy one or you will round the hex fittings at the hoses. Harbor freight has a good set on the cheap. I have a set from Sears that makes full contact with the hex fitting, but lost the 3/8-7/16 size. For the price of that one replacement wrench, I bough a comparable, complete set from HF, with enough change left over for lunch. What is important is that the wrench business end is thick enough to make full contact with the hex fitting. An open end wrench is sure to damage your new line. If you have an s/s line, they are that much harder to tighten into a leak free union.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Warren MI
Mine went is as already described, but have one suggestion. If you don't have a good line wrench, buy one or you will round the hex fittings at the hoses. Harbor freight has a good set on the cheap. I have a set from Sears that makes full contact with the hex fitting, but lost the 3/8-7/16 size. For the price of that one replacement wrench, I bough a comparable, complete set from HF, with enough change left over for lunch. What is important is that the wrench business end is thick enough to make full contact with the hex fitting. An open end wrench is sure to damage your new line. If you have an s/s line, they are that much harder to tighten into a leak free union.
The one at the distribution block are 7/16" and came off after a good wack with a 5/8" diameter brass rod.
What's a s/s line? Stainless Steel??
