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1975 4spd tip

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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 09:16 PM
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Default 1975 4spd tip

I had shifting issues with my tranny. Grinding into 1st and reverse, difficult to get into gear. I thought I needed to adjust the linkages but decided to go with the basics first. I drained the fluid and replaced it with 5oz of 40 weight motor oil and then topped her off with the 75-90 gear oil. After a 20 mile drive she was smooth as could be. Its been a 100 miles since then and she is still buttery smooth on the shifts. So if you are having issues and your fluid is old, change it first before your pull out the wrenches.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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why the 40 weight motor oil?
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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Is the gear oil you used ok for older syncros?
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 02:21 PM
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The original specs are for SAE 80W or SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lube for the 4 speed tran.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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40 wt motor oil?
Is sawdust your next fix?
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ATIS
I thought I needed to adjust the linkages but decided to go with the basics first.
This is just me thinking but that would be starting off with the basics wouldn't it?
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:15 PM
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It is starting at the basics but it seems that the first recommendation on posts about hard shifting result in adjusting the shift linkages. I couldnt find the spacing tool to make the adjustments so I changed the fluids instead.

The 40 weight oil is to help thin the gear oil a little to help it get into tight places. The gear oil I used was GL5 so I am good there. I wanted to go synthetic but everyone said that synthetic is hard on the brass synchros. I know it sounds crazy but it works and the shifter doesnt get hot anymore. Others have used straight 30 weight but I dont have the guts to go that thin.

Last edited by ATIS; Jun 15, 2012 at 06:20 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ATIS
It is starting at the basics but it seems that the first recommendation on posts about hard shifting result in adjusting the shift linkages. I couldnt find the spacing tool to make the adjustments so I changed the fluids instead.

The 40 weight oil is to help thin the gear oil a little to help it get into tight places. The gear oil I used was GL5 so I am good there. I wanted to go synthetic but everyone said that synthetic is hard on the brass synchros. I know it sounds crazy but it works and the shifter doesnt get hot anymore. Others have used straight 30 weight but I dont have the guts to go that thin.
Where did you fine the GL5, just out of curiosity? I'm a bit over due to do this myself.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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Advance auto had it. I went through the entire gear lube shelf looking. I cant remember the brand off the top of my head.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ATIS
It is starting at the basics but it seems that the first recommendation on posts about hard shifting result in adjusting the shift linkages. I couldnt find the spacing tool to make the adjustments so I changed the fluids instead.

The 40 weight oil is to help thin the gear oil a little to help it get into tight places. The gear oil I used was GL5 so I am good there. I wanted to go synthetic but everyone said that synthetic is hard on the brass synchros. I know it sounds crazy but it works and the shifter doesnt get hot anymore. Others have used straight 30 weight but I dont have the guts to go that thin.
It's been awhile for me when I did the adjustment but I think you can use a drill bit of the correct size. If I'm wrong someone can correct me.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
It's been awhile for me when I did the adjustment but I think you can use a drill bit of the correct size. If I'm wrong someone can correct me.
That's for a Hurst shifter,Muncie's use a flat thin tool.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ATIS
It is starting at the basics but it seems that the first recommendation on posts about hard shifting result in adjusting the shift linkages. I couldnt find the spacing tool to make the adjustments so I changed the fluids instead.

The 40 weight oil is to help thin the gear oil a little to help it get into tight places. The gear oil I used was GL5 so I am good there. I wanted to go synthetic but everyone said that synthetic is hard on the brass synchros. I know it sounds crazy but it works and the shifter doesnt get hot anymore. Others have used straight 30 weight but I dont have the guts to go that thin.

The numbers on differant oil types can't be compared 1 to 1 like you are thinking. 40wt engine oil is thicker cold and slighty thinner when warm when compared to a 75w90 gear oil.

The CsT of Chevron 40wt is...
40 = 136
100 = 14.7

Mobil1 75w90 is...
40 = 99
100 = 15.2

So in the end you probably ended up making it a little thicker, not thinner.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 08:47 AM
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Marlin, thats interesting. Maybe its hanging on the gears better. All I know for sure is its shifts smoother then my 2006 Mustang GT and never grinds or hangs up.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 03:33 PM
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Ever stop and think that maybe your transmission is shifting nicer just because you changed the fluid, and it may have nothing to do with the snake oil?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Your symptoms sounded to me like the clutch wasn't releasing fully.
Can't imagine that engine oil is the right choice in a manual trans. You could try putting in a bottle of the positraction additive into the transmission to improve shifting performace. Worked for me.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gcusmano74
Your symptoms sounded to me like the clutch wasn't releasing fully.
Thats what I thought when I read the OP. I doubt that 5 oz of motor oil is going to hurt a standard trans,it just thinned the 90 a bit.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:27 PM
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I didnt mess with the clutch at all so the fluid change fixed it. I did think that maybe it just needed a fluid change since it was 37 years old (but had less then 7,000 miles on it). I changed the the diff at the same time.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ATIS
I had shifting issues with my tranny. Grinding into 1st and reverse, difficult to get into gear.
Originally Posted by ATIS
I didnt mess with the clutch at all so the fluid change fixed it. I did think that maybe it just needed a fluid change since it was 37 years old (but had less then 7,000 miles on it). I changed the the diff at the same time.
Your above quote is classic for a clutch not fully disengaging,which causes grinding,especially going into reverse.
Glad the lube change fixed it for you.
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks, I was calling around to a dozen places looking for someone that could adjust the linkages after I couldnt find the tool on line. I live in a small town and it was a no go. I have only found one guy that will even touch a Carb and he is an old school racer. Most of the guys and gals in the Corvette club take their cars 2 hours away to get them worked on.
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 09:31 AM
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Note-clutch adjustment and shifter linkage adjustment are 2 different things.
Clutch adj is easy and can be done leaning over the fender.
The shifter adj is much more difficult.
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