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Hey guys,
I keep bleeding my brakes but I can't get any pedal. They were working before I started bleeding them. I tried to gravity bleed them but the hoese kept falling off, so now I have my wife pumping the pedal for me. When I crack the rear bleeders I only get a dribble of fluid insted of the normal stream.
I did loosen one of the bolts that hold the calipers together and fluid dripped out. I also broke the lining on one for the e brake pads re-installing the rotor, but they didn't work anyway.
Any ideas on what I have done?
Thanks!
- Jay
Remember that the rear calipers on C3's have an inner and an outer bleed screw. Did you try both? If not then you may have lots of air in one side and that is why it won't bleed properly. Try doing the inner first then the outer. Then the other side of the car.
Also, on my aftermarket calipers I had a 3rd bleeder on the rear at the bottom outside. I bled that one first and then the inner, top outside, then bottom outside again. If you get no fluid at all at the back, check the flex line to hard line connection. I ended up with crap stuck in the calipers so I had to replace them. Do you have a pressure bleeder? They work great for one person bleeding and when you get the air out of the lines you can stand on the brake peddle and watch any air get pushed back into the bleedee bottle.
Also, on my aftermarket calipers I had a 3rd bleeder on the rear at the bottom outside. I bled that one first and then the inner, top outside, then bottom outside again. If you get no fluid at all at the back, check the flex line to hard line connection. I ended up with crap stuck in the calipers so I had to replace them. Do you have a pressure bleeder? They work great for one person bleeding and when you get the air out of the lines you can stand on the brake peddle and watch any air get pushed back into the bleedee bottle.
you have a third bleeder because whoever rebuilt your calipers ran out of plugs, you only bleed the two rear bleeders facing forward.
The proportioning valve may be stuck.
Have someone open the front and the rear bleeders at the same time,
while someone pushes the peddle almost to the floor.
That will center the valve.
Yes you can leak air and not fluid.
Usually happens when the brake peddle is released.
Sucks air in around the break seals.
I had clogged flex lines. I found them when I couldnt get the front to bleed, air only and no fluid. I removed the flex line at the hard line in the wheel well and once I started to loosen it I had fluid. Replaced the lines and the calipers and all is good.
I had clogged flex lines. I found them when I couldnt get the front to bleed, air only and no fluid. I removed the flex line at the hard line in the wheel well and once I started to loosen it I had fluid. Replaced the lines and the calipers and all is good.
New problems!
The reason I was messing with the brakes to begin with is because there was a clang noise when I release the brake pedal. Turns out a caliper bolt fell out and the caliper was rocking an hitting the dust cover.
I bought new caliper bolts but that one wont tighten.
I guess I'll get a tap and see if I can clean the threads, or maybe a new set of calipers is in order.
The brakes were working before I loosened the caliper, just pulling slightly to the right (loose caliper side). Guess I need to get that straight first.
Stay tuned...
Front or rear bolt missing? The reason for the question is to determine if you can easily remove the caliper to ck. the threads in the caliper mount. Fronts just hang on rubber lines. To remove the rears you must remove the hard line to remove the caliper. I would remove the caliper in any case to inspect the threads on the caliper bracket and go from there. Gravity bleeding will work everytime if there are no problems with the rubber lines. Fronts drain first. Rears may take two hours or more with a dry system but will eventually flow. Have car level and keep checking MC fluid level. It will work. Good luck with it. mike...
Yeah, wish I didn't go there. It's the front bolt missing. When to Lowe's to get a tap, got there and realized I left the bolt in my other pants pocket.
MDS, to you mean bleed the front brakes first, or the front bleeders on the rear first?
I've always heard start with wheel farthest from MC (RR).
I checked the proportioning valve like Ralph said, but haven't bled them again yet.
I just opened them all at the same time and closed them off one at a time when a solid flow of fluid appeared. You can watch the level in the master cylinder to see which reservoir is actually draining down. Pieces of clear vinyl tubing of the correct size to fit the bleeder screws and small catch cups were used. I was replacing old fluid that was yellow in color and replacing with fluid that is purple so the color change was easily seen. I use Dot5 silicone fluid. This was done after rebuilding all calipers. Car on four stands with all wheels off. mike...
That's pretty much what I'm doing. I'm just having trouble getting a wrench on the bleeders and turning them without knocking off the hoses. I'll figure it out. I'm confused about the 3rd bleeder on the rears. Do I need to bleed all 3 or just the 2 outside ones? These calipers have the ss sleeves Ralph. I may check on the price of a new set just because I don't know how old these are.
Thanks Mike!
Last edited by psycho dad; Jun 16, 2012 at 09:10 PM.
That's pretty much what I'm doing. I'm just having trouble getting a wrench on the bleeders and turning them without knocking off the hoses. I'll figure it out. I'm confused about the 3rd bleeder on the rears. Do I need to bleed all 3 or just the 2 outside ones? These calipers have the ss sleeves Ralph. I may check on the price of a new set just because I don't know how old these are.
Thanks Mike!
Loosen all bleeders then put on the clear hoses. As the new fluid comes out you can watch for air bubbles. When no more air, then tighten the bleeders. ...Roger..., please correct me if I get anything wrong. mike...