Issue with VBP spring
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Charleston SC
Issue with VBP spring
So I finally installed a new HD rear cover today and installed a new VBP composite spring. The problem that I ran into was that the long spring end bolts will not line up with the spring. I tried moving the traling arm up and down but nothing helped. Are there know issues with the DH cover and spring alignment. It appears to be a for/aft problem. Thanks 
Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 588
Likes: 41
From: Ohio
On my 78 it was the same way. I could NOT get the right bolt in after putting in the left one. Finally had to loosen the 4 bolts on the mounting bracket until I could get the spring bolts in and nuts started. After re-torqing bracket bolts and letting car back down it worked out just fine,
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 351
Likes: 5
From: Clearwater FL
So I got my car back from the shop today and they mentioned that all the slop in the rear lateral link could be an issue. I noticed it to when I installed it, but to be honest I didn't think anything of it. I just assumed, that's how it is. Now I see this thread and other mentioning it.
Why is there so much slop? The OEM spring wasn't like that.
Why is there so much slop? The OEM spring wasn't like that.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,337
Likes: 1,590
From: Western NY
A couple of things I don't quite understand here....
First, "MikeKey", what is this "lateral link" that your alignment shop is referring to?? Lateral means side-to-side. Are they referring to the struts that maintain the camber?
Secondly, to all the posters, are you gents aware that when installing the rear spring bolts, that you place a short piece of wood on the pad of a floor jack, then lift the end of the spring up, so the bolts and cushions can be put in place??
First, "MikeKey", what is this "lateral link" that your alignment shop is referring to?? Lateral means side-to-side. Are they referring to the struts that maintain the camber?
Secondly, to all the posters, are you gents aware that when installing the rear spring bolts, that you place a short piece of wood on the pad of a floor jack, then lift the end of the spring up, so the bolts and cushions can be put in place??
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 351
Likes: 5
From: Clearwater FL
A couple of things I don't quite understand here....
First, "MikeKey", what is this "lateral link" that your alignment shop is referring to?? Lateral means side-to-side. Are they referring to the struts that maintain the camber?
Secondly, to all the posters, are you gents aware that when installing the rear spring bolts, that you place a short piece of wood on the pad of a floor jack, then lift the end of the spring up, so the bolts and cushions can be put in place??
First, "MikeKey", what is this "lateral link" that your alignment shop is referring to?? Lateral means side-to-side. Are they referring to the struts that maintain the camber?
Secondly, to all the posters, are you gents aware that when installing the rear spring bolts, that you place a short piece of wood on the pad of a floor jack, then lift the end of the spring up, so the bolts and cushions can be put in place??
See the above posters photo:
There is a lot of room for the bolt to move around in the hole that VBP cut.
I personally am enjoying my spring, but I got nervous because all of a sudden there are a few threads that have cropped up about people complaining about VBP.
I might go with Vansteel for anything else.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,337
Likes: 1,590
From: Western NY
He may of been mistaken when he wrote it down. But he was clearly explaining the slop in the bolt where it connects to the spring.
See the above posters photo:
There is a lot of room for the bolt to move around in the hole that VBP cut.
I personally am enjoying my spring, but I got nervous because all of a sudden there are a few threads that have cropped up about people complaining about VBP.
I might go with Vansteel for anything else.
See the above posters photo:
There is a lot of room for the bolt to move around in the hole that VBP cut.
I personally am enjoying my spring, but I got nervous because all of a sudden there are a few threads that have cropped up about people complaining about VBP.
I might go with Vansteel for anything else.
With respect to VanSteel, as well as several other suppliers, from what I've seen, they sell VB&P parts, packaged as their own. Think about it, how many people are restoring/repairing C-3 Corvettes? On this forum, it may appear to be a lot, but in the sense of the business world, it's a very limited market. Therefore, I highly doubt that there are more than 1 or 2 shops doing the rebuilds and/or manufacturing parts.
For what it's worth, I installed a VB&P spring in a C-3 many years ago, the car belonging to my wife. She drove the car for several years after that, before selling it, and we both were very satisfied with how the spring functioned.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,380
Likes: 788
From: Redondo Beach, California
Whenever, I buy kits that have bolts, I just replace all the bolts,washers, nuts with Grade 8. Easy for me since I have a nearby fastener hardware store that sells fasteners to local manufacturing businesses.
There are a few suspension bolts that should remain Grade 5 I believe. Even at that Grade 5 should be a little corrosion resistant also. Grade 5 bolts are not all that hard, but can flex a little more than Grade 8. I think the trailing arm to frame bolts are supposed to be Grade 5, for example.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
If these fasteners were grade 8, they would not only be very strong (actually more strong then necessary), but also corrosion resistance. The hard surfaces of Grade 8 fasteners makes them resistant to corrosion.
Whenever, I buy kits that have bolts, I just replace all the bolts,washers, nuts with Grade 8. Easy for me since I have a nearby fastener hardware store that sells fasteners to local manufacturing businesses.
There are a few suspension bolts that should remain Grade 5 I believe. Even at that Grade 5 should be a little corrosion resistant also. Grade 5 bolts are not all that hard, but can flex a little more than Grade 8. I think the trailing arm to frame bolts are supposed to be Grade 5, for example.
Whenever, I buy kits that have bolts, I just replace all the bolts,washers, nuts with Grade 8. Easy for me since I have a nearby fastener hardware store that sells fasteners to local manufacturing businesses.
There are a few suspension bolts that should remain Grade 5 I believe. Even at that Grade 5 should be a little corrosion resistant also. Grade 5 bolts are not all that hard, but can flex a little more than Grade 8. I think the trailing arm to frame bolts are supposed to be Grade 5, for example.