There are zillion solid Vortec headed 383 combos out there. Here's one pretty stout engine:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...d.php?t=161866

 

Back to the question of Vortec over procomp? I'd take vortecs over procomp any day of the week, I'd also take shp's over those if I were on a budget, if not I'd go afr. Considering that he has the vortecs & the associated hard ware already, if he changes to a conventional head he has to buy new hard ware, if it were me & I had to buy new hardware, I'd save up and get afr's and be done with it.

 

GM is not the only one that built pressed in ball stud crap. Chevy started it while other engines in GM had far better shaft systems. It was a cheap but lossy way to build it bean counters rulled the day. Other companies saw chevy get away with this crap put off on the public decided if there getting away selling this junk to the public we can to.

GM in the 1950s had 55 percent of the world car market. Lets think about that besides ford and chrysler think about all the car brands all over the world at that time. There arrogance of lets build the same old cheap crap the suckers will keep buying our cars did not work out for them . They went from 55 percent of the world market to a small market share to bankruptcy with this arrogant attitude. The new 69 Z/28 i mentioned it had no damage from shipment to the dealer. The dealer had to put it in there body shop shoot more paint on the roof easly done with laquar paint. Reason you could see primer the paint was so thin. I ordered a new 78 vette it came in on the left rear quarter panel primer was completely showing through about a foot long ray charlse could spot it from 20 ft, no problem ship it to the dealer. The new 79 Z/28 i ordered came in it was a white car. The doors fenders hood did not match the color of the body. GM had got the brillant idea to save time of painting parts seperately. That did not work anybody with any eyes could easaly see it. No problem get it the dealer screw the customer we have 50 percent plus of the world market the suckers will keep coming in. Don't get me started on the new 1978 3/4ton chevy silevrado pickup i bought. I bought five new chevys from 1969 to 1979 three of them the dealer had to repaint. Everytime i think of the 78 pickup i paid good money for i would like to take a baseball bat to the gm brass of that time period. Even the right had passenger door hinge you know the door far less used the hinge broke loose from the door. GM in that time period had good body stylest in the 50s, 60s thats all they had.

I have never bought a GM product since 1979 never will again. Would i buy an older chevy based on its styling just liking the car yes. For new car transportation there will never be a gm car in my driveway ever again. Have never owned a foriegn car but many japanese motorcycles. GM will never get another dollar off this ole boy again.

 

The Dart's were not actually on my list of possible selections for my current rebuild plans. A little feedback from members who included them in their build would be appreciated.
Dart shp 200
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D.../?autoview=SKU

 

You're crying and ranting as if GM is the only manufacturer that ever did anything wrong or cheaply which in no way contributes to this thread.....

I do agree that the Vortec heads are a good option if the OP wants to do a budget build since he already owns them.

 

The GEN I SBC valvetrain design represents excellent engineering that has worked well for 60 years and millions of engines. Valvetrain failures are rare, and those that are seen are often the result of bad valvetrain geometry or substandard parts. The vast majority of GEN I SBCs, even ones making 1-1.2 HP/CID, are still running reasonably stock valvetrains. Certainly as the lift, RPM range and spring pressures go up there are better choices for more money...but the stock valvetrain works just fine in the right application.

I have yet to have a pressed-in oil pump pickup come out. The ones I've seen that have were either a used pickup in a new pump, or were driven in with a chunk of wood or a screwdriver. Using the right tool with a little Loctite sleeve retainer works fine. Certainly if someone's going racing a retainer or a braize zot isn't a bad idea...but it's not required for a street engine...but can certainly be done if someone worries about such things. Again, good engineering that serves very well in most cases. Stuff happens, but the failure rate is exceptionally low.



The Vortec debate apparently soldiers on and edits abound As I've said, for the OP the expense of having a good valve job done vs. the cost of a new set of heads makes the Vortecs a great choice if his power targets are around 1 HP/CID or a little better. There's no reason to monkey around with them and add cost - just run 'em. Additional flow with additional port cross-section is a trade-off to some extent. Buying moar head for moar power is of course fine - but a blanket recommendation without understanding what the power targets are makes no sense to me...and double-check anyone's math on the true and full cost of "moar".

Many good choices...that all stem from a good design and budget

 

There is something here that is bothering me. You say that you "received a 1 pc crank instead of a 2pc and had to end up buying a vortec engine for the block." Can I ask why you didn't just send the one piece RMS crank back, and have them send you the right piece, instead of buying a new engine to go with the mistakenly shipped incorrect crank?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

So, a Vortech head with 170 cc ports would be ideal for maximizing gas mileage on a 350 hp motor?

 

My pressed in oil pickup tube came out of a car i bought brand new so did my grandfathers 57 buick. First W cylinder head i got to look at was from a 58 implala owner bought new the heads were pulled off one of the pressed in was studs was pulled out. Factory car nothing had been done to it. 65 the pressed in studs were gone on there new BBC. People were tired of pinning the crap then watching the stud break from drilling into the stud. Every article every written tells you to braze a factory pickup to the body.

My 73 LS4 when i pulled the pan low and behold the pickup tube was brazed to the pump.

Vortec heads best attribute is its combustion chamber its runners nothing special. if you take them put screw in studs in then durabity is good as any then. Thats why chevy did it to there 180 runner over the counter head. The ball stud system is cheap junk nuts always backing off them always had problems factory shaft sytems never had.

I had a brand new car pulled back with a wrecker to cliff peck chevy where i bought it with 18,000 miles on it. They put a new crank two new rods in under warranty because of chevys pressed in pick up tube. My grandfather did not tell me his milage only the engine was replaced under warranty pickup tube feel out of the pump.

 

They have a very efficient chamber and are a real good match for a 350 HP engine with a mild cam. As I said they do have there place and are a great head for the money on a mild performance build.

 

Great numbers but he is running 11 to 1 compression, .028 quench. big cam 236/246, deep gears and a huge convertor and nitrous in a light car his combination works well as a unit. Those are not stock vortecs. Likely a 3 angle valve job, Some porting done, spring pockets cut, spring upgrade to .525 springs, probably different retainers needed. Pushrod holes and oil drain holes opened up and smoothed. I used to run 11's with a set of 186 heads but it took a lot of work from stock to get them there. If you can't do the work yourself there is a lot of money in those heads. Look at the flow difference in this chart. Note the stock flow numbers!
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...3&d=1287543966

The thing is his desktop dyno numbers show 437 hp @ 6000 RPM. With nothing but a change to AFR heads he would be over 500 hp with this combo with exact same specs and better power throughout the entire operating range of the cam.
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...4&d=1287544308

 

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namecalling deleted- let's end that here...

**
The Forum should be a place where we treat one another with civility so that it remains a fun and friendly place to hang around with other Corvette enthusiasts. Hostility to others is rude and inappropriate.

Personal attacks cannot be tolerated. Attack ideas, not fellow Forum members.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/foru...rd-others.html

 

Yeah, man, a little teasing is one thing, I have been known to indulge in it myself. (Ya think?!) But goin' around pissing people off for fun is just messed up. It's the kind of thing little kids do before they're old enough to know better. Oh, well, takes all kinds of people to make a world, I guess.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

*****************

Again, the namecalling ends here.

The Forum should be a place where we treat one another with civility so that it remains a fun and friendly place to hang around with other Corvette enthusiasts. Hostility to others is rude and inappropriate.

Personal attacks cannot be tolerated. Attack ideas, not fellow Forum members.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/foru...rd-others.html

 

hey...I have World Sportsman II heads, had them ported polished and port-matched by Valley Heads in Chatsworth Ca. keeping up with the C6's!!!! and RPM's past 6500 and with power still climbing!!! :-)

they have been great heads for me.... And Valley heads says the World heads are build well. Gkull also uses Valley Heads for there race cars.. but he did state something to the fact that after Valley Heads are done with them, they are no longer really Sportsean II heads... fwiw.... p:-)

 

*************

The Forum should be a place where we treat one another with civility so that it remains a fun and friendly place to hang around with other Corvette enthusiasts. Hostility to others is rude and inappropriate.

Personal attacks cannot be tolerated. Attack ideas, not fellow Forum members.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/foru...rd-others.html

 

What did the heads flow after they were done & what did it cost?

 

Wasn't cheap... almost $1000, but that was for all 3, porting, polishing, and port matching.... a little over 300 .6 .....valves are larger also now, they do very very good work. But like george told me, are they really Sportsmans anymore?

and I would like to say also, little mouse and 68mako really helped me out with the valve train... put me in a great direction... that valve train runs like a bat out of hell because of them.

 

I think LM is just kidding here........sarcasm at best.

He is nowhere close to being a troll.

Look up his other posts - its easy just click on his profile.

He gives out a lot of good info.

Peace
Bman

 

Up intill four yrs ago i drove an old 69 chevy pickup as a second vehicle and pickups can always come in handy. Neighbor wanted it i sold it to him. To me the dash in the C2 is the greatest looking dash ever made. Honestly though if you look at the dash in a 58 t-bird yes it is more square at the top but you can see where the idea came from along with some earlier then 58 cars. My dislike of GM is true they will not ever sell me anything again. They earned it with me.


Chevys short blocks are great always had a good oiling system where olds and buick of that time period did not. There heads well the stud system is not the way to do it very cheap in cost to make always been the source of chevy problems. The bronze valve giude was created to fix the SBC bad valve guide problems other companyies did not seem to have. BBC had removable valve guides. I worked in a machine shop on heads seen all brands come through, i was a chevy brand loyalist at that time. The SBC head was the pitts thats the truth no sugar coating, no political correctness.

Pressed in studs are junk looking for a reason to fail. Screw in studs better of a bad design. You can put a patch on it with a girdle or get rid of the crap with aftermarket shaft system.

When i had a BBC one of my friends refered to big blocks as " weak as wet toilet paper " he liked lunati cams at the time i refered to his cam as lunatic cams. i was running cranes he refered to my cam as crap cams. Over on the cafe racer forum i'm on where i go by JM360 under it as my favoite saying is " WEAK AS WET TOILET PAPER " do i believe that no, but i love the saying lol.

If i put " weak as wet toilet paper " under little mouse, SBC folks might get excited and offended. lol.

The designer of the lunati voodo is very good a well known fact. I have come on this forum many times directing someone to it. Not knowing them did i come on and say, gee why don't you get one of those LUNATIC cams.

I have tought that if i could get a reverse rotation cam made up for a SBC shrink it only slightly in size. It would make a very good starter motor for a BBC.