I would like to install Poly motor mounts.. if i can find them! Anyone use them and can recommend a vendor? Thanks in advance..
Eddie

 

You can get them from Summit or Jegs, they are made by Energy Suspension. After breaking a new locking GM mount I decided it was either poly or solid, and I'm very happy with the poly ones. It was a little tight to get them to fit.

Rob

 

Summit racing has them. I just bought the motor/trans mount kit from them to go on the zz4. Very high quality pieces. They are a little bit harder to work with since they do not flex like the rubber. The summit part number is ENS-3-1120G.

Mark B.

 

ditto..summit or jegs has then for cheapest price. Get the black ones which are graphite impregnated. Supposed to be better with graphite. Im not sure why though.

yeah..the G at the end of the part # stands for graphite.


[Modified by Jvette73, 8:48 PM 5/27/2002]

 

robzr: Thanks.. I must have missed it in the catalog. Engine build going great. Slow... but steady. Just have to work out carb linkage and manifold vacuum fitting.

sigforty: Thanks for the part #.. Guy's like you make life so easy!!! With credit card in hand, off to the phone I go!! :D :D

jvette: :yesnod: :yesnod: Graphite for me too. no doubt about it. The rest of my bushings are graph. so why stop now?? Good suggestion..thanks

 

I just installed the black poly mounts in mine. After breaking the stock ones I was considering solid ones. I am glad I went with the poly ones. Little more vibration than stock but not bad. I also got the kit from summit with the trans mount. Nice quality pieces.

 

When I went to replace my broken motor mount I got my hands on some poly mounts. I decided that the poly mounts get glued to the steel plates just like the rubber ones, and the poly mount seemed as stiff as the steel itself, so I went for the solid mounts...they cost 1/2 as much, and are at least twice as strong. I didn't notice any additional vibration from solid vs rubber, but my engine is a stock L48 with only 40K miles on it, I suppose with a radical cam and rough idle there may be a bit more vibration in the wheel. :)

 

Why can't someone come up with a new design so the poly isn't glued to the steel? Seems a solid 3 inch hole that accepts a 3 inch poly bushing and a bolt through it's center of the bushing would work. The bushing would probably not last as long but would be a simple task to replace. Even if the bushing gave out, the bolt would hold until the a replacement was installed.

 

The poly mounts are locking style. If the poly breaks (highly unlikely) the steel interlocks so that the motor will not "jump" up and break the shroud. They also have these style in rubber mounts.

 

Rockn-Roll:
I'm running solid motor mounts and a solid tranny mount with a Comp Cams 294 solid lifter cam. There is a good bit of vibration....but I love the solid mounts :D.

 

Thanks to all who replied... :cheers:
Gordonm:
Will a stock oil pan support the weight of the block enough to lift the motor a tad.. just enough to change the mounts? A big block of wood on the jack across the pan is what I was thinkin. :confused: :confused:

 

Get that thing on the road !!! :smash:

glad to hear all is well.... :cheers: in the rebuild so far !
I been repaving the roads up here in BFG black ! :eek:

 

Well..pave some black stripes up to Wildwood, and give me a hand! :jester
I got plenty of beer, Captn Morgan, tunes, and uh... don't forget your girl! :eek: (kidding) Yeah.. slow but sure Jeramie. The Ox is slow, but the earth is patient. :D :D :D

 

I have done it at the back of the motor just holding it up without the trans. The front I was not as brave. I have a small bottle jack that I use. There is a small piece of the block that you can jack it up on just outside the lip of the pan. I used this because I did not want to chance denting the pan. I did one side at a time.

 

Also could use a cherry picker if you got one. Just attach a chain to one side and lift. No chance of pan dent or gasket squeeze.

 

Many people are using the Energy Sus poly mounts. So far I have not heard of any failures of the mounts.

Ive used the rear portion of the oil pan to lift the engine off the mounts. Its pretty strong due to its curviture. Just make sure you put a piece of plywood or other suitable buffer between the jack and pan to distribute the lifting force evenly.

 

Thanks JVette... A'm-a-gonna give it a go this weekend :D

 

silvr77, all others with poly mounts:
just a note of caution, poly isn't immune to heat. if you have headers or an exhaust that runs kinda close, you may want to fab some kind of heat sheilding. after my first track event since i replaced mine, i was under the car inspecting things to find long gooey strings of poly hanging from the motor mount. they still appear to be functional but needless to say i'm not real happy that i basically melted $60 in a day and a half at the track, plus the other things i broke out there.
bence, about your solid motor mounts. you may want to talk to a machine shop to verify this but you could break your block that way. i was running solid mounts on mine before i installed the poly thinking it would make the engine and trans a "stressed member" and stiffen the chassis. an engine builder i spoke to said this can be disasterous to the block because the mounts bolt to a relatively unsupported flat plane that is perpandicular to the forces generally applied. and it's cast iron. too much pressure on this part of the block can cause it to crack the outer wall. i know you've put big $$$ into that engine so you might want to check with somebody about that before something really bad happens.