C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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Hi Guys: I'm a 'new' member but an 'old' guy. The last 'vette I owned was a 1959 which I bought in '66 for $850, put a new 283 in with my friend and sold for $1175 about 9 mnths later and thought I was way ahead of the game. Needless to say (but I will anyway) I wish I had those 'wheels' today. Anyway, I thought I'd reward my enrollment in Medicare this year by looking for a C3 'vette, because I like the look and they're pretty affordable. My question is, a 1981 in my area looks great in pic's but the owner says the A/c just needs to be charged. I'm a bit of a 'doubting Thomas' and wondering if I should demand that he fix it B/4 I buy it, if everything else looks OK on the car. Speaking of 'everything else', what are the important things I should look for? I know the frame and Birdcage get rusty but other than crawling under the car how do I make sure there isn't any rust damage? Looking forward to you input and thanks in advance....."Dzer"
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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Regarding the a/c, I think you are smart in asking for it to be repaired prior to your purchase. Another way is to have him get a current estimate from a reputable shop for its repair. If you have to pay someone to fix it, it could run into some serious $. "It just needs some freon" is a phrase that is often heard. Good luck with your negotiations.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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Wow. Where to start. The newest C3 is now 30 years old, so they will all be maintenance intensive at this point. Couple of things to look out for. Definitely the rust in the frame and birdcage are right at the top of the list, since they are the hardest to repair. Next I would find out when the last time the rear wheel bearings were serviced. Also, does the car have stainless steel sleeved brake calipers? Absolutely a must. If they aren't on the car, you will be doing it soon. Rear suspension is an issue. There are a number of bushings that have a fairly limited life, especially the strut rod bushings, although they aren't that big a deal to change. Next look at the car from the rear for the rear wheel camber. Do the tires tip in at the top? That can be either strut rod bushings, or work out output yokes in the differential. C3 Corvettes aren't great cars for guys who have to pay someone to service them. I think you'll find most of us do our own work.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by drwet
Wow. Where to start. The newest C3 is now 30 years old, so they will all be maintenance intensive at this point. Couple of things to look out for. Definitely the rust in the frame and birdcage are right at the top of the list, since they are the hardest to repair. Next I would find out when the last time the rear wheel bearings were serviced. Also, does the car have stainless steel sleeved brake calipers? Absolutely a must. If they aren't on the car, you will be doing it soon. Rear suspension is an issue. There are a number of bushings that have a fairly limited life, especially the strut rod bushings, although they aren't that big a deal to change. Next look at the car from the rear for the rear wheel camber. Do the tires tip in at the top? That can be either strut rod bushings, or work out output yokes in the differential. C3 Corvettes aren't great cars for guys who have to pay someone to service them. I think you'll find most of us do our own work.
Thanks, Doc...........what are stainless steel sleeved calipers. Is there actually a SS covering over the cast calipers? Thanks...
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 06:33 PM
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No, the stainless calipers were developed to deal with the fact that the original factory calipers would corrode and start to leak. The calipers themselves are cast, and the bores are just machined out of the castings. Moisture would get into the bore and cause corrosion. When the piston passed over the corroded bore, it would leak. The aftermarket came up with stainless steel sleeved calipers in which a stainless tube is pressed into the bore to prevent corrosion of the surface the piston rides against. It has become so common, that I think there are probably more calipers out there with sleeves than without. If the callipers are sleeved they will last for many years. I have had 10-15 trouble free years from mine. If they aren't sleeved you will usually get two or three years before they start to leak.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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My SS sleeved calipers have lasted for over 35 years now, with lip seals and with silicone brake fluid.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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"Just needs freon...."
My friend and I went with that on his low mile original 78
Pulled and held vac, charged up nice and blows ICE cold.
Two weeks later and I will be pulling the compressor off later this week to replace the main case seals and shaft seal
Both started leaking with the new added pressure. It IS still blowing cold, just don't want to lose the R12.
Not expensive to do it yourself($20 for seals but special pullers ARE required for both seals) but who knows how much labor a shop might charge.
Plus I'm able to reclaim the R12 which holds down cost.

Keep in mind having him recharge the system might leave you with these same leaks down the road.
Try for a nice deduction in the price so you can make sure it's done right.
(my friend's 78 is for sale, we're wanting to do it right!)

Last edited by KapsSA; Jul 16, 2012 at 08:53 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by loup68
My SS sleeved calipers have lasted for over 35 years now, with lip seals and with silicone brake fluid.
Have you rebuilt them in that time? The last set on my '79 lasted about 15 years. If I had more time, I probably would have rebuilt them, but I was leaving on a trip and needed to get the car running in a hurry, so I just bought a rebuilt set.
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