How difficult is it to replace my clutch on a '75 4spd ST-10? Manual says remove the exhaust (brand new duals), pull shifter linkage, brace engine, pull transmission, pull bellhousing, remove flywheel and have somebody resurface, replace clutch components, re-install.

Reading around here people mentioned estimates of ~$800 in labor to pay somebody else to do it.

How ugly is this is this in comparison to, say, doing a rear suspension rebuild (shocks, struts, spring, u-joints, t arms, brake hoses)? That took me like 40hrs and that was with somebody else rebuilding the trailing arms, as I'm new to this.

I can pay a shop to do it when I get my alignment but if it is possible to do this myself in a weekend I'd rather suck it up and learn.

Also, what's the likelyhood of screwing it up and not being able to tell until it is all back together? That scares me the most

 

the biggest difference is you will be doing a lot of the work on a creeper on your back. Unless you are pretty strong, you probably should have a second person available for the transmission drop and reinstall. How are you going to do this in a weekend and have the flywheel resurfaced? If you have the factory shop manual or good equivilant you should not screw anything up. Make sure you install the thowout bearing correctly and place the clutch disc with the correct side facing the engine.

 

I assume I can take it to shop that does brake rotor resurfacing and they can turn it the same way?

I'm in my 20s and in pretty good shape so I should be okay with the transmission weight. I'm more concerned about how many hours this may take (figure it will take me 3x longer than somebody who's done it before) and if there are any special tools I'll need.

For example, when I got rebuilt trailing arms from vansteel I had to transfer and torque the spindle flanges which meant buying a bigger torque wrench (expensive) and a 1 1/16" socket (my kit only went to 1"). Also had to buy flange nut wrenches for the brakes. Whatever it takes to get the job done, just hate surprises.

 

you will need a way to hold the flywheel while you tighten the bolts for the clutch cover, a large screwdriver may do, and you need a clutch alignment tool which quite often comes with a new cover and disc.

 

Thanks, looks like kits come with the alignment tool but say "pilot bushing not included". Is this something that can generally be re-used or do I need to order one to match my engine/trans along with the clutch kit?

 

You possibly could do that, but dont.
A flywheel should have a non-directional finish on it.
Here is a video of a flywheel being properly surfaced.

 

I read elsewhere on this forum that this was a common procedure and I should be able to find a local shop that can resurface it? Or should I just plan on getting a new one?

Or, wait until it's out to see.

BTW, from what I've read for a stock 1975 l-48 w/ BW ST-10 it should be a 11in 26spline and 168 tooth flywheel.

 

I don't think you'll have any problem finding a shop to resurface it.
Call a few automotive machine shops before you start.
You may find someone with Saturday hours so you can still get everything done in a weekend.

 

I've changed them in mustangs would say it's a 2 person job as far as removing the transmission unless you rent or have a xmission jack. if the flywheel isn't groved or otherwise damaged don't worry with it.

 

Thanks guys. Any advice on if I need to replace this pilot bushing?

 

DO replace the pilot bushing. Here are some pics of recommended non-magnetic pilot bushings.

And here's a view of the right and wrong way to install the throwout bearing.

Think your '75 has a removable cross member (2 bolts on each side). With the trans supported by a jack or a friend/helper assisting, you'll find moving that cross member out from under the trans will aid in sliding her out as well as back in.

Good luck!

Jim
In God We Trust!

 

Difficult getting the manual trans out as cross-member is welded to frame. U need to support the engine from underneath before disconnecting the trans mount as the engine will drop down and break the motor mounts - 4x4 block of wood under oil pan works.
U will want to remove the console then the carpet and cut a trap door on the trans tunnel to R&R the shift linkage - just my opinion. Also will need to learn how to adjust the shifter linkage - that trap door will greatly help here. BTW i made the small linkage adjustment tool out of a piece of strip sheet metal - <1 hour.

Hope this helps,
cardo0

 

cardo0,

Didn't know the 4 speed cross member would be different from the automatic version for 1975. Reason I say this is I worked on a '75 last fall that was a factory automatic and that cross member had to be replaced (big dent in it). 4 bolts and it was out.

Agree that the OP needs to support that motor. Definitely helps to pull the distributor allowing that motor to swing back towards the firewall...should help in allowing that input shaft to clear the bell housing.

Jim
In God We Trust!

 

a few more tips,tape u-joints so needle bearings don't fall out,plastic bag with rubber band over rear of tranny to stop tranny oil from leaking all over the floor,pilot bushing removal get a punch with a slightly smaller dia. than inside of pilot bushing(couple thousenths)fill pilot bushing with wheel bearing grease,insert punch and smack,most people do it this way and it works.last,I think the chevy service manual shows you how to make a tool for adjusting linkage,I made one along time ago 3/16 steelx13/16 wide,bent 90 degrees check it out as I have a hurst now and havn't used it in 20 or so years.Maybe you could borrow one from someone on the forum.

 

If that punch & grease approach by blue427 doesn't get that bushing out another approach to removal of the pilot bushing that's in there is to get a 5/8" tap and a 5/8" bolt. Run that tap in and then screw that bolt into the threads you just created in that bushing...wallah! She'll pull right out.

Here's a pic of what I used.

More than 1 way to skin that cat :



Jim
In God We Trust!

 

I replaced the clutch just two weeks ago and agree with the suggestions. I did mine flat on my back. Some more observations of what happened when I did mine. The shifter can be removed intact after removing the ball, spring, and T handle. Only two bolts hold it to the bracket. I did not need to remove any of the console. Kind of a pain to get the bolts started when installing the shifter, but it is possible. I suggest you set up the shifter with the trans out. I found it easier to remove the slip yoke from the trans, pull the trans out of the bellhousing, rotate the trans shifter side up, and wrestle it out of the car. Lower the engine as far as possible to make it easier to remove the trans. Don't forget to unhook the tach cable from the distributor. Seeing you have a 75, you have a HEI? I'd replace the flywheel. Use new flywheel and pressure plate bolts with some Loctite. Replace the release bearing too. I used the GM roller pilot bearing. Install the clutch disc facing the correct direction, replace the fork and pivot ball. I'd also change the trans fluid. When installing the trans, do not try to pull it onto the bell the last 3/4" using the bolts. Connect the clutch linkage and have a helper push the clutch pedal to release the disc. The trans should slide right in.

 

what's the minimum height (floor to bottom of frame) needed to remove the manual trans. i've seen 26" on the forum, but no reference as to what they were measuring.

 

Yes the automatic Xmember is bolted on where the manual trans Xmember is welded - at least for my '74. I'm suprized the OP hasn't confirmed this. Well we can only help soo much feedback and particpation.

cardo0

 

I know in my '78 the cross member is welded, because it was a PITA to get the trans out with that cross member there.

I just did mine a month ago, with some friends, luckily one has a lift in his garage which made it MUCH easier. We got it out one night after work, had flywheel resurfaced next day, had to replace clutch fork and had it back in the next day.
Like others have said have a good manual nearby to help if you don't know, make sure clutch goes on right direction...and at least 1 extra guy to help would make it 1000 x easier.

 

Hey guys, thanks for all the info. I've been away for a while but I'm finally getting ready to tackle this.

Parts list:
- clutch kit (cover, disc, alignment tool)
- flywheel
- pilot bearing
- release bearing

Anything else?

And a final question... how much space do I need under the car to get this done? I have four 3-ton jack stands, no easy access to a lift.