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Hi All
1980 Vette, I found a leak coming from the PS control valve. It is coming from the the nut that is facing the tire. Is this an adjustment nut or does it hold the guts in place?? Is it easier to replace the o-ring or just by a rebuilt unit ? If I replace it, is the bleeding process hard? Please help in me in stopping this annoying leak.
if you have a lot of fluid leaking from that , you may want to start thinking about either rebuilding the valve or replacing it. The seal in that cylinder is leaking. A vender on here, WILCOX, just made a video and posted it on here for free on how to rebuild them. If you rebuild it yourself, bout$50, rebuilt from a vender , bout $90-$150 , plus a core charge. , if you go that rout, make sure to get one thats pre centered, saves alot of time, you can still buy new ones , bout $200, usually pre centered when you get them. after that it depends how deep your pockets are cause the upgrades, while excellent , are spendy. hope this helps
If you are mechanically inclined at all, I suggest you rebuild it yourself. Pretty easy, an afternoon to do it and ther is lots of help on the internet on how to do it. Most of all it is satisfying because it works. Hardest part is getting the ball joint to release from the pitman arm when you remove it from the car
I suggest that you spend the extra money for the rebuild kit with the new ball so you don't have to tear it apart just to find out you need to order more parts. (lesson learned)
Good luck
This has become an intriguing topic for me since I rebuilt one PSCV and have another I'll need to attend to. So, I've looked at the Wilcox video and also read Hitch's writeup. I also recalled a discussion on the NCRS tech board and have included a few comments from it to round out the discussion here.
I believe the power steering on the C3's is the same as the C2's. Here is an excellent writeup by Hitch, with lots of pictures, of how to rebuild your power steering control valve (PSCV).
The Saginaw PSCV was used from 1963-86 but in 1976 an o-ring groove was machined into the housing surface. For a photo to figure out what housing your Corvette may have, I've included the link below. I think this will work for non-NCRS members who wish to only view. According to the link, The part number became service replacement for 1963-75 Corvettes and may still be available from GM for a modest $635.00. Thus, the encouragement to rebuild/repair your leaking unit.
As the original poster (Larry) indicated, his 1980 housing has the o-ring groove so the Hitch link is an overall good guide but for a housing requiring an o-ring, get the correct rebuild kit. For early C3s...you may have an extra o-ring left over from your rebuilt kit.
I have some notes in one of our old counter books on the change and to be honest, I feel with certainty I know the answer or close to when it happened. I also think I may know why it happened... but I'll have to make a phone call to confirm it.
Mid 87-88 is my aprox. date and I'll have to check this tomorrow.
I remember when the valves came in new they had thin edge of orange RTV that had oozed out and when we would try to sell one at a swap meet customers would think they were rebuilt units.