superdave269

I'm getting ready to install a new cam in my 454. I will be using a voodoo 60202 cam with a Comp Cams kit minus their cam. I remeber the old 1800-2500 RPMs for 20-30 min. What I just read was to remove the inner valve spring. Honestly I have never done that before. Now I wonder if it would be better to break it in with the stock valve springs and wait the 30 min and change the oil and then put in the new valve springs. Any idea besides listening to the manufacture? It's been 20 years since I have replaced a cam.

Bob K

Make sure you us a oil with higher than normal levels of ZDDP.

I've used Brad Penn oil in the past.

Bob K.

MotorHead

I'm a Brad Penn fan myself

What is the seat and open pressure of your valve springs ?

63mako

Be careful using Comp springs with Lunati cam. The Lunati needs noticably more spring pressure due to steep ramps and heavy valvetrain than a similar duration Comp XE.

63mako

Leaving the old stock springs on is likely a good choice if they will handle the increased lift without coil bind with about a .050 safety margin. My dyno guy has some 1.4 ratio big block rockers for break in.

superdave269

That figures. I only saw that the cam required springs. I could not find out any recomended rating of the springs.

I found this for the Comp springs on Summit's page ..Valve Springs, Single, 1.524 in. Outside Diameter, 373 lbs./in. Rate, 1.200 in. Coil Bind Height
What do you think?

76strokervette

The summit website reccomends valve spring pn 73815 lun.It states
120lbs seat pressure and 315lbs open pressure.To find these parts on their site ,call up your cam.Then click on suggested parts and pick
which part you want.After calling up your spring pn click on application,
which will give you spring rates,seat pressure etc..
I agree with 63 Mako on stock springs for break in if they will work.

superdave269

Cool, How did I miss the suggested parts tab? Thanks! I actually feel a little better now. Looks like the Comp springs are a little bigger.

bluedawg

is running the stronger than necessary spring a good ideal. would the increased spring pressure decrease the life span of the of the cam lobes by adding unnecessary wear?

63mako

Recommended spring is 120 seat pressure and 315 open. This is at .540 lift. Spring rate 342
Comp spring is 122 on seat 309 open this is at .500 lift. Spring rate 375. As you can see these are not an exact match and the comp springs are stronger. Better stronger than to weak as the springs will weaken 10% or so in the first couple hundred miles. These should be fine if you break the cam in right.

superdave269

I looked these springs up again on another site. They have 306 lbs of open pressure, so they are actually a little light just as 63 Mako suggested.

I guess I should of refreshed , I didn't see 63Makos reply.
Wow now that I read that reply I'm a little confused by I am going to try it. Wish me luck

63mako

The open pressures are measured at different lift points. The comp springs are a little stronger.

superdave269

Thanks for the help, I still have so much to learn.

daanbc

The fun hasn't even started yet, wait till you start your car for the "break in"!! Make sure you have a buddy around, your exhaust manifolds will get HOT Very quick when doing the break in.

MotorHead

I was going to post that the springs weren't going to be a problem with breakin yesterday but was scared someone would come up with a theoretical mathematical equation proving me wrong

hdpete98

There are also break in additives available. Most important part is to not let the engine idle. At idle, not enough oil gets "splashed" on the lobes. Beyond that everything else for the most part is over thinking.

MotorHead

This is where oil restrictors are good to have to keep more oil in the center of the motor instead of pumping it up to the cylinder heads and having it sit and pool there waiting to drain down.

My friend suggested this years ago when they first started making solid street rollers ( I know he has a flat tappet ) I used the first Gen of the comp cams solid roller lifters with no direct oiling path or holes to the bearings.

Keeping oil in the middle of the motor and not letting it idle to long, just give it a few shots of gas at the lights to splash the lifters if you are sitting there too long, only downside is the guy next to thinks you are getting ready to race him

Anyway I got over 20,000 street miles on those lifters before I caught one with the needle bearings starting to go. At the time no one thought they would live on the street for more than few thousand miles at best.