Right turn signal dim
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Right turn signal dim
my 78 SAE Vette is running great and most everything works; except when I have the headlights on, the right turn signal is very slow and the brake light is dim. ESPECIALLY when the brakes are applied. What could this cause be? I've cleaned up the ground (located on the rear left of the body, near the left brake light area). Any ideas? Appreciate it greatly!
Btw, all bulbs are brand new, everything else works great, etc. (Well, not my under hood bulb!)
Btw, all bulbs are brand new, everything else works great, etc. (Well, not my under hood bulb!)
#2
It sounds like a ground issue, do you have the chasis wiring diagram, are you sure the left side is the only ground?
#3
Advanced
Each bulb socket has a ground terminal as well, and they corrode or even break. Check them all with a test light or a meter. I also found a wire to a parking/ts light pinched flat and bare by a bumper bracket, which "bled off" power when activated. Good luck!!
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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Is the tail light brighter as well? If you changed sockets or fixed some wiring then it's possible you have the wires backwards with the turn/brake wire going to the tail light element in the bulb. This makes the brake/signal dull and the tail bright. I've seen this swap done many times when people are re-wiring a vehicle or trailer.
#5
Burning Brakes
John
#6
Safety Car
My 82 is doing it too and my volts are at 13v. When I turn the headlights on the right blinker either blinks erratic or doesn't flash at all.
Last edited by hugie82; 08-01-2012 at 08:22 AM.
#8
I know this thread is almost a year old, but has anyone figured out a solution for this? I'd be interested to hear anything that fixed your guys' issues.
I'm in a similar boat... I have all brand new wiring harnesses so I know the wires and contacts are good. Everything works perfectly with the headlights off, but as soon as the headlights are on the blinker doesn't work right (I think maybe just the right). I haven't checked the brake lights yet.
I'm in a similar boat... I have all brand new wiring harnesses so I know the wires and contacts are good. Everything works perfectly with the headlights off, but as soon as the headlights are on the blinker doesn't work right (I think maybe just the right). I haven't checked the brake lights yet.
#9
Burning Brakes
Snike,
When you say that you have all new wiring harnesses, did you replace the harnesses on both sides of the firewall? I mean did you replace the 'Fuse Block/Dash Harness' and the 'Headlight Harness'? All the power for all the lights pass through the fuse block junction. If these connectors are not perfect, then when the high power headlights are on there will be a large voltage drop at the fuse block. This doesn't leave much left for anything else.
Do both the left and right turn signals malfunction when the headlights are on? Does it get worse when your high beams are on and when you step on the brakes?
One way to reduce this voltage drop is to install a relay system to operate your headlights. This will eliminate all the headlight power from passing through the fuse block and headlight switch. See Speed Direct for an easy to install kit.
John
When you say that you have all new wiring harnesses, did you replace the harnesses on both sides of the firewall? I mean did you replace the 'Fuse Block/Dash Harness' and the 'Headlight Harness'? All the power for all the lights pass through the fuse block junction. If these connectors are not perfect, then when the high power headlights are on there will be a large voltage drop at the fuse block. This doesn't leave much left for anything else.
Do both the left and right turn signals malfunction when the headlights are on? Does it get worse when your high beams are on and when you step on the brakes?
One way to reduce this voltage drop is to install a relay system to operate your headlights. This will eliminate all the headlight power from passing through the fuse block and headlight switch. See Speed Direct for an easy to install kit.
John
#10
Snike,
When you say that you have all new wiring harnesses, did you replace the harnesses on both sides of the firewall? I mean did you replace the 'Fuse Block/Dash Harness' and the 'Headlight Harness'? All the power for all the lights pass through the fuse block junction. If these connectors are not perfect, then when the high power headlights are on there will be a large voltage drop at the fuse block. This doesn't leave much left for anything else.
Do both the left and right turn signals malfunction when the headlights are on? Does it get worse when your high beams are on and when you step on the brakes?
One way to reduce this voltage drop is to install a relay system to operate your headlights. This will eliminate all the headlight power from passing through the fuse block and headlight switch. See Speed Direct for an easy to install kit.
John
When you say that you have all new wiring harnesses, did you replace the harnesses on both sides of the firewall? I mean did you replace the 'Fuse Block/Dash Harness' and the 'Headlight Harness'? All the power for all the lights pass through the fuse block junction. If these connectors are not perfect, then when the high power headlights are on there will be a large voltage drop at the fuse block. This doesn't leave much left for anything else.
Do both the left and right turn signals malfunction when the headlights are on? Does it get worse when your high beams are on and when you step on the brakes?
One way to reduce this voltage drop is to install a relay system to operate your headlights. This will eliminate all the headlight power from passing through the fuse block and headlight switch. See Speed Direct for an easy to install kit.
John
As far as behavior, I really haven't gotten to test it too much yet as I've been debugging some more major issues. I'd go check the behavior a bit but it's currently in the shop getting the new suspension aligned. If I remember right it was just the right signal that had issues, but I'm not certain. And I hadn't tried the brights yet.
It's kinda funny that you mentioned the SpeedDirect nevernight kit. I was trying to convince my wife that should be the next project to under take. They look very promising. The original lights are kind of pitiful. They're almost like strapping a pair of flashlights to the front of the car.
Tim
Last edited by snike3; 07-18-2013 at 12:38 AM.
#12
Burning Brakes
The wiring in my '73 was a total mess. Like you, I also replaced every bit of wiring and now everything works. The SpeedDirect kit works well and is very easy to install.
The grounding issue that Budco is referring to brings up a good point too. Make sure your battery grounding cable is making a clean contact with the frame. I used some "Ox-Guard" grease to insure the bare metal contact points stay corrosion free. I also installed the short ground cable that goes from the front frame to the engine block by the starter. When I had the dash apart, I ran an extra ground wire to the gage cluster.
Let us know about the testing when you get your car back home.
John
The grounding issue that Budco is referring to brings up a good point too. Make sure your battery grounding cable is making a clean contact with the frame. I used some "Ox-Guard" grease to insure the bare metal contact points stay corrosion free. I also installed the short ground cable that goes from the front frame to the engine block by the starter. When I had the dash apart, I ran an extra ground wire to the gage cluster.
Let us know about the testing when you get your car back home.
John