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Fuel Tank Leaking

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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:37 AM
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Default Fuel Tank Leaking

Well it's starting to get me mad. I want to put the body back on but not when this thing is still leaking.

I thought it was the rubber seal so I bought a new one and the metal ring. I filled it up a little and it didn't leak. thought great!

Went to fill it up more with fuel and it starts leaking again!!! Looks to be coming from the out line.


Anyway to tighten this? looks to just be press sealed...?? I really don't want to have to buy anything else since I don't even need that part other than for the fuel level float. LS1 fuel pump goes in the top...
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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May not want to do it but looks like a new float. They are about 60-70 dollars.
They can't be tightened that I could see when I replaced my tank. Not sure if you want to do a temp fix on the tank that leaks before you put on the body.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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Silver solder it.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Silver solder it.
OR like I did, clean it up and ordinary plumbers solder....

been that way for over a decade for me.....

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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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draining what's left in the tank now.

I have solder, does it have to be silver solder? Is normal solder silver?


I could weld it shut pretty easy too. But I'd want to fill the tank with water first so it would be a lot more work than just soldering it.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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I have been been using Water Weld by J-B Weld. This stuff is amazing I fixed a brake line leak and it lasted over a year until I replaced all the lines. It fixes fuel tank leaks and even works under water as I fixed my terlet with it Look it up I wouldn't recommend something unless I knew it worked. But the best idea is to fix it properly while you have good access to it
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PUNISHER VETTE
draining what's left in the tank now.

I have solder, does it have to be silver solder? Is normal solder silver?


I could weld it shut pretty easy too. But I'd want to fill the tank with water first so it would be a lot more work than just soldering it.
Ordinary solder is good enough, just clean it well with acid and make sure it flows.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
OR like I did, clean it up and ordinary plumbers solder....

been that way for over a decade for me.....

Me too! Back in my racing days we used to remove the stock tubing and replace with larger size tubing. Cleanup - Acid Flux - Plumbing Solder

Do please remove from tank first and don't overheat you wiring!

Last edited by 74modified; Jul 29, 2012 at 10:31 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 08:53 AM
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Probably should have asked this first but I'm afraid for the answer.

My tank was perfect looking(no rust) on the inside before this winter. I guess when I drained it and let sit empty all winter it started rusting in the low spots.

I cleaned it the best I could but was wondering if with gas in it again will that help keep the rust from forming again or will it constantly build now?

could probably get my local welders to weld me up an aluminum one but mounting the old hardware to it might be a bit hard.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Save yourself some headaches and put a new Quanta Gas tank in. They aren't expensive. Repairing old gas tanks is dangerous and not worth the effort.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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If it is just minor surface rust, you could pull the tank and use one of the tank sealing products. I have used these on other projects where replacement tanks were not available or budget was low. I have one tank that was pretty bad (an ancient Jeep) that I coated 10 years ago and it is still great. There are 4 or 5 different brands.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-...FQPznAodbiMAqA
http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Res...n/products/12/
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 74modified
If it is just minor surface rust, you could pull the tank and use one of the tank sealing products. I have used these on other projects where replacement tanks were not available or budget was low. I have one tank that was pretty bad (an ancient Jeep) that I coated 10 years ago and it is still great. There are 4 or 5 different brands.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-...FQPznAodbiMAqA
http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Res...n/products/12/
It shouldn't be bad but there was one spot that had a small hole. i think it was a combination of rust and where it sat on the frame for so many years. I just fill welded it shut but it was pretty thin in that area.

I think if i was to spend money I should just invest in a new tank. I just don't really need a stock tank since i'll have to cut a hole in it anyway for the LS1 fuel pump. If that pump has a fuel level gauge that would be awesome as I wouldn't even need any of the old equipment.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Silver solder it.
Yeah, just found the PO had done that on my car where the tank meets the support. How did I find out? The tank had rusted further around the solder and started leaking onto the exhaust.

Get a new tank. A lot safer in the long run.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by azza2u
Yeah, just found the PO had done that on my car where the tank meets the support. How did I find out? The tank had rusted further around the solder and started leaking onto the exhaust.

Get a new tank. A lot safer in the long run.
The suggestion was for the removable sending unit piping, not the body of the tank. Original piping seal leaking and probably not due to rust. Material a lot thicker too.

For small holes in the tank itself, I have used a large soldering iron, and simple rosin core solder with no ill effects.
Last tank I did like that was over 10 years ago and still fine.
Obviously it's not wise to try and rebuild a tank too far gone with solder.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 03:21 PM
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I think I'm going to bite the bullet and order a new tank. I don't have much confidence the one I have will be good for too long.

how hard is it to install the tank with the body on? Ordering one is going to take at least a week and i'd like to put the body back on if I could.

Cheapest I could find was $175ish.

I just have 2 concerns. If there's a float on my LS1 pump there's no need to have a hole in the bottom for the old fuel level float and uptake tubing.

Which leads me to do I need a replacement tank or can I just get a random square fuel cell and modify it to make it work? Not knowing how much those are though.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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I use a intank pump kit from tanks inc. and solder the orig fuel line closed never seen a aftermarket elec. pump kit with the sender.
Mark
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by PUNISHER VETTE
could probably get my local welders to weld me up an aluminum one but mounting the old hardware to it might be a bit hard.
Screw the old mounts. Custom fab a new tank with new mounts and openings to fit your new fuel injection pump.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Screw the old mounts. Custom fab a new tank with new mounts and openings to fit your new fuel injection pump.
I was all set to order a new tank but I just don't think I'm going to.

I'm going to patch the one I have since most of the work is already done to it and hope it holds together long enough to see if my LS1 swap is going to work this fall.

Then maybe this winter i'll fiddle with building a new tank to fit my needs and let me practice my welding skills.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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Well I soldered the tube and it still leaked so it must be coming around the rubber seal still(brand new seal)

So i'm just going to weld the stupid thing solid. tired of messing with this tiny part that shouldn't have taken so much effort.
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