When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
how much road noise should i be experiencing? i have replaced all the rearend bushings with poly ones and rebuilt the rearend. the noise is almost a grinding sound...........could you guys help me out?
Did you have a complete rear diff rebuild? I was told to either drive a tight figure 8 about 10 times, or circles in each direction to break everything in, something to do with the clutches and helping the posi lube get mixed in. You shouldn't have a grinding noise, I have poly bushings and when my diff was rebuilt including new gears there was no noise at all, at least none other than the usual road noises.
i don't know guys, i hear grinding noise........i went to get my rearend aligned and the guy told me that it could very well be bearings!! it seems to get a bit louder when i slow do idle speed!!!! could this be a rebuilt problem?
Can you tell where it is coming from? If not put the rear up on jack stands and put it in gear. If it is bearings, they probably won't grind since not much weight on em in the air, if rear end you should be able to hear it but it may be lighter too because of less stress. I hate chasing down funny noises so I feel for ya bro.
No... No... No... Don't do that. The wheels hanging will put the half shaft U joints almost in a bind... Not good! You can put the car on jackstands and then support the wheels at the spring mount to get the half shafts fairly straight.
That's odd, I did it when I was chasing a speedo error and had no problems. I certainly would not red line it but having the car in gear at idle caused me no problems. I also rotate the tires as I put the lug nuts on at that doesn't hurt it. I can't see the car engineered so that if the butt end gets a little airborn it ruins anything. Of course supporting the spring would not hurt the car either so I guess it is your call Rod.
Yes you can do that but... It's just that the U joints are at their extreme. This would only be a momentary thing while drving. That is why constant velocity joints are a better design. Some aftermarket U joints (especially those with grease zerks) can actually bind enough to break. There is even a caution about this practice in some manuals. At best it is very hard on the U joints. :cheers:
Good point. Maybe he can rotate it by hand first to see if it makes noise or causes binding then maybe try running it in gear at idle. Better safe then sorry.