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I'm having a problem I think it's my ignition but not positive , my car won't start I changed the battery changed the starter , I tested the power cable to the starter it's coming back 12.44 volts my battery test 12.45 volts and I test 12.3 from the ignition wire to the starter but it takes at least 4 to 5 try's turning the key and touching the meter to a couple spots on the cable . I can arch the starter with a screw driver so I know there's power but still no start when i turn the key can someone PLZ HELP!!!!
So the issue is no starter spin using the key? if you bypass the ignition switch by using a remote start button or the screwdriver method wll it start and run?
Check chassis ground. Happened to me years ago. Shop had it for a week. Bench tested the starter and it was fine. Jumpers to the starter, and it would fire up. They gave up and I took the car home. Read a post and cleaned the main ground block to chassis. Fired right up. Big smile on my face for a week.
If the ground was bad, it wouldn't jump start, he is not jumping the ground, only the ignition wire. It could be a bad solenoid (yes new ones can be bad), but would guess the ignition -wiring, switches, ect - has problems. You can get 12 volts, but you must have enough current flow (amps) to pull in the solenoid. A bad switch or compromised wire may not flow enough current but still show 12 volts.
If the ground was bad, it wouldn't jump start, he is not jumping the ground, only the ignition wire. It could be a bad solenoid (yes new ones can be bad), but would guess the ignition -wiring, switches, ect - has problems. You can get 12 volts, but you must have enough current flow (amps) to pull in the solenoid. A bad switch or compromised wire may not flow enough current but still show 12 volts.
I agree remove ignition switch,and touch purple and white to any red. If it turns over consistently, it's the ignition switch if not it's a connection. First one is at bottom of d steering column. Follow from there, but my guess is that one it gets the most abuse.
Start with a fully charged battery.
You have to start at the power wire feeding the ign switch, then across the feed to the switch to the start pole of the switch, then the start wire from the switch to the neutral safety switch, then across that switch, then from there to the solenoid connection, all while trying to engage the starter.
If the voltage drop is more than .4v, then that part is bad.
make sure your neutral safety switch is working this was a problem I encountered in the past.
Had the same problem. After changing selenoid and then changing it again in a parking lot I had to look for another cause. The neutral safety switch was the problem. Located below the gear selector on the automatic accesable through the right side panel on center console.
I've been messing with it all night I took the battery out , I had two new battery cables so I unhooked the stock battery cable and with the new battery next to the starter I hooked up the new positive cable to the starter and hooked the neutral cable to a good ground I found and went to crank it to make sure it wasn't the stock battery cable ( just easier then ripping out the old one ) and still nothing. So in recap I have brand new optima red top battery, I'm on my second new starter , and new battery cables , and everything test fine tomorrow while everything is still out like that I'm going to unhook the ignition cable from the solenoid and hook a new wire to the solenoid and I'm gonna tap it against the positive battery terminal and see what happens if it works and try's to turn over I guess I'm gonna run a quick push button start on it until I have time to replace the ignition , and if all that doesn't work I'm gonna get a lot more use out of my favorite tool in the garage the beer bottle opener.....
Neutral cable to a good ground means... what? You hooked the negative cable up to a good ground or you tried to ground the neutral safety wires?
Make sure your neutral safety switch is intact. If not, jump the two purple wires leading off of it. It's highly likely this is the issue, especially if you've got good voltage in the cabin otherwise.
Have you even checked this switch yet?
If this is a manual, you'll have a clutch safety switch that effectively does the same thing.
Neutral cable to a good ground means... what? You hooked the negative cable up to a good ground or you tried to ground the neutral safety wires?
Make sure your neutral safety switch is intact. If not, jump the two purple wires leading off of it. It's highly likely this is the issue, especially if you've got good voltage in the cabin otherwise.
Have you even checked this switch yet?
If this is a manual, you'll have a clutch safety switch that effectively does the same thing.
I grounded the negative battery cable to the ground on the starter , it's what I've been using to ground my meter so I know it's working , no I have not checked my neutral safety switch . How do I check that? ( sorry never had it go before )
It's an automatic? Take the right side center console cover out and you'll see the controls for the shifter.
There will be 2 pairs of wires attached to a black switch on the shifter. One pair is purple and yellow (on the harness leading out to the starter, purple/purple typically on the switch itself) the other pair is pink/green. You want to jump the purple/yellow wires. Easy enough by connecting the terminals with a piece of wire. (Factory wire is 12ga)
If your car is a manual, the idea is similar but the switch will be attached to the clutch pedal linkage up near the pedal box. I hope for the sake of your back and neck you have an automatic for diagnosing this one!
It's an auto I bought about a month ago I went through the engine , rebuilt the carb , flushed everything when I got done with the carb I wen to give it it's first crank in 8 years it turned over about five times not really enough to get gas flowing through the lines and it just stopped I've been having this problem for about a week and gone through all the motions I described now I will try the neutral safety switch I just wasn't sure how to check it
why is that everyone starts replacing parts instead of buying a cheap test light or meter to check things out??? Its usually a lot easier to check things than to lay on your back to change part after part after part, and still not start? It would of paid for a very expensive meter by now!