Better Bump Stops Front Upper Control Arms
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Better Bump Stops Front Upper Control Arms
Hello all,
I've been bitten by the crappy ball joints from Vette Brakes&Products so I'm changing them out for Moogs. After removing the ball joints I noticed that my passenger side bump stop on the upper control arm was gone and the driver's side is torn. Lower bump stops are fine. I purchased the entire front and rear monospring kit with the front upper and lower control arms, and of course, the unbelievably crappy ball joints. This suspension has less than 5000 miles on it so why did these bump stops tear and rip off? Spirited driving has definitely been done, but nothing that would seem to do this. Anybody have this issue? What bump stops did you purchase to fix the issue?
Pictures below for those that are interested.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
I've been bitten by the crappy ball joints from Vette Brakes&Products so I'm changing them out for Moogs. After removing the ball joints I noticed that my passenger side bump stop on the upper control arm was gone and the driver's side is torn. Lower bump stops are fine. I purchased the entire front and rear monospring kit with the front upper and lower control arms, and of course, the unbelievably crappy ball joints. This suspension has less than 5000 miles on it so why did these bump stops tear and rip off? Spirited driving has definitely been done, but nothing that would seem to do this. Anybody have this issue? What bump stops did you purchase to fix the issue?
Pictures below for those that are interested.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
Looks like you have tubular upper control arms? From the second picture it looks like the flat steel of the upper CA has caught and cut the bumper.
I think the steel of the upper arm is giving you the trouble not the upper bumpers.
Is your car stock height? the only time tose upper bumpers come into contact is when the suspension is travelling downward(car frame going up) Like when you jack the front end by the frame.
Second pic also shows marks on the frame on the outside of the spring pocket like somethings been contacting it.
I think the steel of the upper arm is giving you the trouble not the upper bumpers.
Is your car stock height? the only time tose upper bumpers come into contact is when the suspension is travelling downward(car frame going up) Like when you jack the front end by the frame.
Second pic also shows marks on the frame on the outside of the spring pocket like somethings been contacting it.
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Thanks for the reply AZMotorhead,
Yes, these are the tubular control arms from VB&P. Yes, the car is lowered. Yes, the car has spent a large amount of time off the wheels in the air. 11 months. No, those marks are not from the control arm. They are from my dumb *** wielding the pickle fork I was using to pop the ball joints. No, I was not happy when I saw the resulting marks.
From your reply I'm thinking I should raise the ride height some?
Thanks.
-B
Yes, these are the tubular control arms from VB&P. Yes, the car is lowered. Yes, the car has spent a large amount of time off the wheels in the air. 11 months. No, those marks are not from the control arm. They are from my dumb *** wielding the pickle fork I was using to pop the ball joints. No, I was not happy when I saw the resulting marks.
From your reply I'm thinking I should raise the ride height some?
Thanks.
-B
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After inspecting the travel of the upper control arm relative to the bump stop location AZMotorhead is correct that the control arm is causing the tear and over all destruction of the bump stops. The part of the control arm that is contacting the bump stop is rounded with one side open. What's happening is the conical shape of the bump stop is allowing the control arm to slide past the load point at the top. The result causes the bump stop to be pushed and stressed as the control arm slides against it in a way it was not designed for. What would solve the problem is a slightly larger "block" style bump stop that had a larger flat surface that would take the load of the control arm and not distort and not allow the control arm to slide past the load point. I figure I have two choices: 1. I cold purchase the stock conical bump stops and shave the top flat. OR 2. I could source a block style, flat topped bump stop that fits in the stock location.
Anybody use any aftermarket bump stops?
For solution #2, maybe something like this?
Or this?
Anybody use any aftermarket bump stops?
For solution #2, maybe something like this?
Or this?
Last edited by brando1118; Aug 17, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 5
From: Marietta GA
Or maybe you could weld a plate onto the control arm that would contact the conical bump stop. I'm not saying it would be easy, but it seems like it would be best to have the bump stop contacted at its center point rather than along the edge. Even with the flatter bump stop, if it contacted toward the outer edge, the compression of the suspension is probably enough to bend it. Just my $.02
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
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From: Peoria Az
Brando, the problem with the poly type bump stops(red ones pictured) is that they are more like a CRASH stop. When you hit them they are very hard and give quite a jolt.
Since your car has spent alot of time in the air this has caused the original stops to become deformed by deflection. Put your car on its wheel with the original stops in place and see how much they hit when you bounce the car.
If the original stops are close to the crossmember at ride height I'd try fitting a set of 97 or 98 Camaro ZQ8 progressive urethane stops on there.
They may contact (or be real close) at ride height. But as they compress they get firmer.
Since your car has spent alot of time in the air this has caused the original stops to become deformed by deflection. Put your car on its wheel with the original stops in place and see how much they hit when you bounce the car.
If the original stops are close to the crossmember at ride height I'd try fitting a set of 97 or 98 Camaro ZQ8 progressive urethane stops on there.
They may contact (or be real close) at ride height. But as they compress they get firmer.
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Thanks AZMotorhead,
I've been in the garage working so I missed your last post. I actually purchased and installed a set of the Energy Suspension universal disks in the photo below. I went with something pretty short in fear of what you just described in your latest post to me. The ball joints are in and torqued to spec so I'm going to let this one ride and see how she does. It will be interesting to see any difference from having one bump stop completely gone and the other sliced in half. If It's so bad that I have to rip them out again, I'll follow your directions and post back. Below is a pic of the drivers side installed and the loose upper control arm just resting on it to show the possible strike area. Almost dead center. And yes, <sigh> my stupid marks on the spring hat from careless pickle fork use..
I've been in the garage working so I missed your last post. I actually purchased and installed a set of the Energy Suspension universal disks in the photo below. I went with something pretty short in fear of what you just described in your latest post to me. The ball joints are in and torqued to spec so I'm going to let this one ride and see how she does. It will be interesting to see any difference from having one bump stop completely gone and the other sliced in half. If It's so bad that I have to rip them out again, I'll follow your directions and post back. Below is a pic of the drivers side installed and the loose upper control arm just resting on it to show the possible strike area. Almost dead center. And yes, <sigh> my stupid marks on the spring hat from careless pickle fork use..
