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rebuilt my carb, starts won't stay running ?

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Old 12-05-2012, 08:41 PM
  #41  
fazang
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Default Trying again

So i finished reading Cliffs Book the 3rd time and took tons of notes.
Wanted to post my Cliff notes (no pun intended) to see if anyone cares to comment on anything i forgot.

I have list of things to measure and what are the good ranges, going to tear down the carb again soon and take a ba-zillion measurements to see what's up ?

Link to notes i took
Carb_rebuild_linky

-ALF out...
Old 12-06-2012, 04:31 PM
  #42  
Shark Racer
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I don't have enough time right now to completely review your notes, but the following is wrong:
Fuel bowl -> up Idle Tubes -> into Air Bleeds
Down Idle Channel -> Into Lower Air Bleeds -> into Mixture Screws
The fuel is only dispensed via the mixture holes, transfer slots, or main nozzles. The idle air bleeds add emulsion air to the idle mixture. The size of the down channel and idle tube restrictions determine how much fuel is passed to the idle mixture passage and the transfer slots. The idle air bleed size determines how much air.
Old 12-06-2012, 06:01 PM
  #43  
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Very good notes overall, other than the aforementioned stuff. Make sure you carefully follow Cliff's idle recipes for idle sizing as the sizing of idle down channel and idle tubes will have a significant impact in off-idle.

You may want to reach out to him if you have questions about a baseline.

Once a carb has been messed with quite a bit like these commercially rebuilt carbs are, you really need to experiment with them to get them running again. It's not for the faint-of-heart.
Old 03-30-2013, 01:13 PM
  #44  
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Finally pulled the trigger, just got off the phone with Cliff, ordered the plug kit, bushing kit, and some idle tubes, just in case.
Went to Sears and Harbor Freight this weekend and got bunch tiny drill bits, caliper, pin vise, metal ruler, and some punches for seating the checkball.
Gonna tear it down again in April, take all the measurements and hope to find some thing wrong.
Cliff thinks, cuz i didn't touch the idle tubes they are full of gunk and clogged....maybe get lucky and find that was the issue.
Stay Tuned....
-ALF out...
Old 03-30-2013, 06:02 PM
  #45  
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Cliff is a smart dude... make sure you have an 0.090 punch (3/32 will work OK I've found) for knocking the idle tubes down. I believe I used a #8 drywall screw with the tip ground down a bit to pull the tubes.



That pic shows everything I used (just about) to pull and re-size the idle tubes.
Old 04-15-2013, 11:01 AM
  #46  
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Quick update
Well i tore it down Sat. and we found one idle tube totally clogged ! the other was okay but not great.
using cliff's method in the book kinda destroys the tubes as mine were a little stubborn coming out. Luckily i listened to him an bought some.
Decided to make only one change at a time, and installed the new idle tubes only, took a lot of measurements too... haven't had time to analyze my notes yet, hec haven't even had time to setup the choke, nevermind get the carb back on the car !
Man i can not wait to have time to try this thing out again and see if it will idle !!!
TTYL
-ALF out...
Old 04-15-2013, 01:24 PM
  #47  
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Should run a lot better with cleared out idle tubes.
Old 05-01-2013, 12:38 PM
  #48  
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You were right Sharky.... SHE LIVES !!!!!
finally had time on 27th and hook it up and set it up, i ended at what i started 4.5 turns out and idle at 750. the choke is factory set to 2400 and works.

I did one 3-5 mile spin around town, and it seems to run fine, but need to do more test/tune.... the secondarys seem to open at right time but need to re-read how to fine tune those....

Not bad Wedding anniversary gift if i do say so my self... 8-) Had the wife reading me the tach while i got the mix and idle screws dialed in. :-)

Well thank you all that tried to help, it is much appreciated !
I think we can consider this Case Closed.
-ALF out...



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