VBP and Gulstrand recommend different settings:

Front Toe:
VBP - Driver ____1/32 IN - Slalom 3/16 OUT_______-Track 0-1/16 OUT
GUL - Driver_1/8-3/16 IN - Slalom 1/8 OUT - 1/8 IN -Track 0-3/16 IN

My Front Toe is 1/16 IN which is in range for Driver, Slalom or Track according to Gulstrand but is out of spec on all according to VBP.

Rear Toe:
VBP - Driver 1/8 IN______- Slalom 1/8 - 1/4 IN_____-Track 1/8-1/4 IN
GUL - Driver 1/16 -1/8 IN_- Slalom__0 - 1/4 IN_____-Track 0-1/4 IN

My Rear Toe is 3/16 IN which is in the range for Slalom or Track according to both VBP and Gulstrand. It is out of range for Driver according to both Gulsrand and VBP.

I intend to use the car for cruising with an occasional autocross/slalom just for excitement. A test drive told me that it tracks fine and I didn't notice any bad handling characteristics on straight or curvy roads, but I haven't had it on the highway yet.

So the question is: Would you change my alignment and more importantly WHY are you recommending a change?

I'm not too concerned with tire wear because they will probably need replacing due to age before I wear out the tread. I also think I will leave the rear toe as it is due to the relative difficulty in adjusting it, but I will adjust it if somebody has a compelling reason.

The Vette is a '74 small block and has a Rack Attack steering system.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

 

Mine is total. I was reading a printout of their specs and I only had the first page because that's where the C3 specs were. I never saw the comments.

 

leave it alone...

 

all alignment specs are a starting point, you then adjust from there to your preferences and driving style. E.g. you want nice, worry-free, track down the road no matter what manners, 1/16 out is a good place to start. You want the car to quickly turn in, 1/16 in is a good place to start.... BUT, while cars at the factory can be set exactly the same, 40 years of settling, updates or changes to the suspension will require you spend some time dialing in your suspension. Once you get to that point (where you set your own specs), then you'll start setting for specific tracks - need more top speed? zero the alignment.

My car, lowered 1 1/2", different springs front and back, tubular control arms, changed camber/caster.... the specs that any of the manufacturers say are merely suggestions.

After you dial in your toe-in, then you can start playing with camber and caster (high speed handling)

and then get one of these

 

Who makes that little tool you have there and what is the part number? not coming up with anything in my search. thanks

 

but get one of these

 

 

several companies make these - they're most prevalent in circle track racing - so any company that caters to the guys who go left have these.... this is just one for instance

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deco-M...auge,2698.html

as for the plates for torque thrust wheels - I make those

 

and tire wear

 

I'm getting mine aligned to factory specs tomorrow. It's a highway cruiser. Any problems with doing that?

 

Do you have the original size tires on the car? If you do no problem. Anything larger go by the VBP specs.

 

Set toe last. It changes with camber/caster changes.

Mel, the VBP spec table is reporting total values: "For example, when we recommend 1/8" toe in, that indicates 1/16" on each front wheel for a total of 1/8" total toe in."

 

Thanks for the correction, I deleted my post.

 

true, but if you've no experience with alignment, toe-in is an easy place to start.

 

+1

 

There are several votes to "leave it alone". Since that's so easy, that's what I'm going to do. Thanks for all your input.