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Stripped threads in Muncie trans mount

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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Default Stripped threads in Muncie trans mount

I did a very stupid thing today- I used standard torque specs for the grade 8 7/16 bolt that attaches the trans mount to the trans case (I went to 50 ft/lb... Idiot) completely not taking into account that it is aluminum. Long story short, I pull the threads out of the boss. I looked up in the hole and saw that I did have some threads left toward the top of the boss. I searched the shop and found another bolt that was 1/2 inch longer and ran it up in the with some blue lock-tite to 15 ft/lb and it held. I was terrified to take it past there so I stopped.

So, question is... Will this be okay? I got the other bolt torqued up to 30 ft/lb with some light oil on the threads. The bolt that stripped was the drivers side so at least it is not the one that gets the most stress when the motor torques the mount being that it torques click wise.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dkarr
I did a very stupid thing today- I used standard torque specs for the grade 8 7/16 bolt that attaches the trans mount to the trans case (I went to 50 ft/lb... Idiot) completely not taking into account that it is aluminum. Long story short, I pull the threads out of the boss. I looked up in the hole and saw that I did have some threads left toward the top of the boss. I searched the shop and found another bolt that was 1/2 inch longer and ran it up in the with some blue lock-tite to 15 ft/lb and it held. I was terrified to take it past there so I stopped.

So, question is... Will this be okay? I got the other bolt torqued up to 30 ft/lb with some light oil on the threads. The bolt that stripped was the drivers side so at least it is not the one that gets the most stress when the motor torques the mount being that it torques click wise.
When you lubricated the threads and then torqued, you over torqued them. When using Lube, K in the torque formula changes compared to a non lube fastener. The bolt that stripped the threaded hole was considerable more than the 50 foot pounds you took it to. The same goes for the bolts you torqued to 30 foot pounds. This is a easy mistake to make when you dont understand torque control and the various values of K in the torque formula. I suggest you go to the
Fastenal web site and down load their Technical Reference in PDF. It contains all you will ever want or need to know about fasteners. here is the link;
http://www.fastenal.com/content/docu...renceGuide.pdf
Print it out and keep it in your shop for reference.

You ask, is the fastener in the stripped hole OK......I have no idea. I would Heli Coil it if it was mine.

8Valve
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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Get a heli coil and fix it right, don't take a chance with mounting bolts.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gve
Get a heli coil and fix it right, don't take a chance with mounting bolts.
Yeah because a heli coil is the fixing it right?

The best way to fix a bolt hole that is compromised is to use a Timecert kit. This puts a solid repair in place. It's not cheap but it's the only way to effectively repair a bolt hole failure.

David
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:04 AM
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Helicoil it. Only takes 10 minutes.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Hitch
Yeah because a heli coil is the fixing it right?

The best way to fix a bolt hole that is compromised is to use a Timecert kit. This puts a solid repair in place. It's not cheap but it's the only way to effectively repair a bolt hole failure.

David
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a helicoil. In fact, it's stronger than the original. It's the equivalent to stepping the bolt up to the next size when you are dealing with softer materials (i.e. aluminum). Granted, it needs to be done right. But if you do it right, you'll never have a problem with it again.
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