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You'd think I could do something as simple as remove the manifold, but so far it's been a bit of a PITA. Can't find the damned timing marks to get it to TDC and the first bolt I try to remove (thermostat housing) goes SNAP. This has got me terrified of trying to get the manifold bolts out. I've soaked 'em down in PB Blaster and I think I'll give it a week with daily soakings before I try to do anything.
Anyway, old thread suggest that maybe the best way to work the broken bolt out is to heat it up--my question is, is this a bad idea with an aluminum manifold?
Keep the flame moving and make SURE that you have no fuel fumes in the area. Should work fine.
You don't have to have the timing marks lined up on TDC, it just helps in case on of your pals spins the distrubitor while it's out. By the way, this has happened to me EVERY time I've removed the dist.
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Aw, Crap--Broken Bolt Question-- (1979toy)
I had the same problem. Some idiot put a bolt into an aluminum manifold, that goes into a cooling jacket, and did not use anti-seize.
That bolt becomes chemically welded in place. I tried an easy out (easy my azz), and it broke in there too.
My best suggestion is to remove the entire intake, and take it to a machine shop and have them use a drill press to drill out the old bolt. Then use a heli-coil kit to replace the treads.
On mine the ONLY stuck bolts were the thermostat. The other's threaded into the heads and had no problems at all.
And remember to use anti-seize when going into any aluminum.
I agree with Bseery. That is what I should have done.
I had the same problem. Some idiot put a bolt into an aluminum manifold, that goes into a cooling jacket, and did not use anti-seize.
That bolt becomes chemically welded in place. I tried an easy out (easy my azz), and it broke in there too.
My best suggestion is to remove the entire intake, and take it to a machine shop and have them use a drill press to drill out the old bolt. Then use a heli-coil kit to replace the treads.
On mine the ONLY stuck bolts were the thermostat. The other's threaded into the heads and had no problems at all.
And remember to use anti-seize when going into any aluminum.
That's what I'm going to end up doing. I got a buddy with a helicoil kit says we can do it, but I'm worried we won't get it bored straight. Thanks, guys.
I feel your pain. The same thing happened on my 68 427. I snapped a thermostat bolt that was seized and then broke an EZ-out. I decided to pull the manifold and take it to a machine shop. When removing the manifold one of the bolts near the water jacket broke. Since my intake valves looked bad I pulled the heads and had them rebuilt. It was a lot of work for a stupid thermostat bolt but the car runs better now than before this fiasco. Good luck.
Yup, did the smart thing--just took the sucker to the machine shop and paid them $7 to get it out (thanks for the advice, BSeery--they didn't even have to drill). That was so cheap I gave 'em another $25 to bead blast it while they were at it. When I put new bolts in the thermostat housing, they were stainless AND coated with anti-seize!
Good to finally meet you Gary. Hope you get that '66 on the road soon!