T-Arm Removal
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Haltom City TX
T-Arm Removal
How hard is it?
Is it worth the extra effort to get the entire t arm rebuilt (bairs), rather than to just send the bearing assembly for service.
The bearings in my 78 need to be replaced (car has 120K miles), but if it is truly beneficial, and i can do it, i will send the entire arm.
You thoughts are appreciated
Dave
Is it worth the extra effort to get the entire t arm rebuilt (bairs), rather than to just send the bearing assembly for service.
The bearings in my 78 need to be replaced (car has 120K miles), but if it is truly beneficial, and i can do it, i will send the entire arm.
You thoughts are appreciated
Dave
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
It would depend on the following:
1. condition of the bushing in the arm and general condition of the arm.
2. Amount of time you have since if you pull the whole arm and send it off it will come back ready to go on with all new parts and is a breeze to install (well maybe not a total breeze but not bad at all.)
3. Whether you want to clean up the pocket and paint while you have it off.
4. Whether you want to spring for the new parts you will want to replace while the arm is off such as strut bushings, rear spring etc.
5. How much money you have because you will be spending a lot more by the time you are done with the "while you are in there(s)".
My opinion, (I did this last winter), pull the arm send it off, clean and paint until it returns, bolt it back on with ss shims and bolts, replace other stuff and you are set for years to come. :cheers:
1. condition of the bushing in the arm and general condition of the arm.
2. Amount of time you have since if you pull the whole arm and send it off it will come back ready to go on with all new parts and is a breeze to install (well maybe not a total breeze but not bad at all.)
3. Whether you want to clean up the pocket and paint while you have it off.
4. Whether you want to spring for the new parts you will want to replace while the arm is off such as strut bushings, rear spring etc.
5. How much money you have because you will be spending a lot more by the time you are done with the "while you are in there(s)".
My opinion, (I did this last winter), pull the arm send it off, clean and paint until it returns, bolt it back on with ss shims and bolts, replace other stuff and you are set for years to come. :cheers:
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
Almost forgot. How hard is it? it can be a real pain to get the arm off but it depends a lot on the amount of rust you have under there. Mine came of without cutting or grinding and they had never been off before to the best of my knowledge. Soaking the bolt and shims with PB Blaster for 2 days before helps. Regardless, they are awkward and heavy but as you said, something that needs to be done on these cars.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Haltom City TX
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
When you send the t-arm out, How often do you get away with paying only the "$299", im a bit nervous that someone is going to call me and tell me that both spindles are bad, along with both bearing supports. Since i cant see their work, i have too take their word for it!
How much are the ss shims you refering too? Any price estimate on the spring and strut mount?
Think i can get out of this for $1000 or less?
How much are the ss shims you refering too? Any price estimate on the spring and strut mount?
Think i can get out of this for $1000 or less?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
Greetings, and check this thread out. Click on the link below.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=305545
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=305545
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Haltom City TX
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
i dont actually want to replace the bearings myself, just wanted to know how hard it is to get the t arm off the car.
Bearing assembly is easy enough, 4 bolts, no biggie.
Mabe this go around ill just get the bearing assembly rebuilt, and send the whole t arm next time.
Bearing assembly is easy enough, 4 bolts, no biggie.
Mabe this go around ill just get the bearing assembly rebuilt, and send the whole t arm next time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
i dont actually want to replace the bearings myself, just wanted to know how hard it is to get the t arm off the car.
I had never done it before and did it in a couple of hours. It all depends on the car.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
I found a bottle jack to be a handy way of removing the trailing arm. You put it between the brake rotor and the frame. Even though it is a tough job for a person to remove the trailing arm sometimes because of the tight fit and or rust buildup, the bottle jack can push it out with ease. You don't need a very big one (load rating that is) and you probably don't really want one that is really large because it could do damage if something is stuck and you apply too much pressure. Anyway, it takes a little bit of thought and you have to be careful, but the bottle jack will push on the frame and push the trailing arm free. Just a helpful hint; made my job go a lot easier the first time. Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: T-Arm Removal (R. Bruno)
AS to the question about paying only $299, that is what I paid from Bairs, no addtional charges. My car had no unusual noises and bears were not fried prior to my sending them. I personally wouldn't worry about Bairs doing something dishonest though. They seem very honest, experienced and competent and clearly want your business over the longterm.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,305
Likes: 5
From: Orlando,Fl,USA
Re: T-Arm Removal (R. Bruno)
I went through this dilema also. Its very hard to remove the rust seized bolt that holds the TA in. I had to sawzall mine out. I sent my spindle assembly to Van Steel in Clearwater florida to have them done . Great job! They were able to utilize the old spindle so I was really at thier mercy as far as that goes. Very honest & reliable workmanship.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,198
Likes: 2
From: Eastern Connecticut
Re: T-Arm Removal (dogboy)
I was able to buy replacement arm assemblies from bairs, install them over a weekend and return my rusty originals for return of all my core charge except for one TA that was actually splitting at the seam. But the other one was also very rusty and they gave me my core charge back. I had to use the hot wrench to remove the bolt on that one arm, the other one the bolt came right out! I wouldn't worry about bairs ripping you off - they have been in the business for way to long to risk their reputation on a hundred or so dollars. Buy bair's stainless shim kit, my local Chevy dealer had new cotter pins. Joe
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 25
From: STL Mo
Re: T-Arm Removal (joe73vette)
Can you say PIA I did both mine on the 77 I dont know how many blades I went through with my sawzall. You can do it the real problem I had was getting that long bolt on the front of the TA out it was all rusted together as well as the shims, man let me tell you that sucked.....I got them off pulled the bearing butt apart took them the CHucks Corvette clinic in Honolulu he cleaned them up had new bearings put in and everything was epoxy coated black, same time i put new shock mounts in and new SS parking brake componets, u joints and had the halfshafts redone to.It sure did look good when i got it all back together. It was a PIA getting them off though. Good luck :cheers:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 3
From: San Diego CA
Re: T-Arm Removal (chigung)
When you send the t-arm out, How often do you get away with paying only the "$299", im a bit nervous that someone is going to call me and tell me that both spindles are bad, along with both bearing supports. Since i cant see their work, i have too take their word for it!
How much are the ss shims you refering too? Any price estimate on the spring and strut mount?
Think i can get out of this for $1000 or less?
How much are the ss shims you refering too? Any price estimate on the spring and strut mount?
Think i can get out of this for $1000 or less?
You shouldnt need a strut rod bracket (mounts to diff) but you may need the lower shock mount (mounts to bearing support) these go for around $44.95 each, you will want the tool that removes it ($12.95)
Get the longer VB bolts (8" - $17.95)for the spring and the Poly cushions ($19.95). Stainless shims $39.95 (includes bolt)
You will want a couple of cans of paint, some degreaser, maybe some sandpaper.
If your trailing arms have never been out before and there is any significant rust in the pocket where the arms bolt to the frame, you will most likely need to rent a sawzall and buy some blades - thats what I had to do. Check out my suspension page here.... http://earchitect.50megs.com/corvette/susp.html
While you are down there make sure your side yokes are in good shape - check how much movement you have in and out of the differential with the sideyokes.
If you pull the rear end, then replace the seals at the very least.
