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Differential swap question

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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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Default Differential swap question

Looking to rebuild diff, and saw one advertised. His: from a 1970, big block and auto transmission. Mine: 69 small block, manual transmission. Realize the stub axles are too big as welll as the mount from driveline.

My question is, is it relatively painless to swap these piece to make it work on my car? The operating assumption is the one for sale was professionally rebuilt.

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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 09:36 AM
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There should be no issue. If you check any of the vendors who sell complete units they are not specific as to whether big block or small block or automatic or manual. There may be a difference in the side yokes but you can make the appropriate changes to make it compatible.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 10:03 AM
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The side yokes (stub axles) may differ by having either a u-bolt or a strap retainer, but each will attach to the same 1350 u-joint of the half shafts.

The driveshaft yoke may be either sized for the 1310 or the 1330 u-joint. If you have a mismatch, u-joints are commonly available to couple the 1310 and 1330 sizes.

You will have no problem.

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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:33 PM
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it is relatively painless but you want to have two floor jacks if you can and air tools. I would not want to do it without air tools.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 03:04 PM
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If yours is original; I would rebuild your carrier to your desire.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
There should be no issue. If you check any of the vendors who sell complete units they are not specific as to whether big block or small block or automatic or manual. There may be a difference in the side yokes but you can make the appropriate changes to make it compatible.
Originally Posted by larrywalk
The side yokes (stub axles) may differ by having either a u-bolt or a strap retainer, but each will attach to the same 1350 u-joint of the half shafts.

The driveshaft yoke may be either sized for the 1310 or the 1330 u-joint. If you have a mismatch, u-joints are commonly available to couple the 1310 and 1330 sizes.

You will have no problem.

Originally Posted by steved400
If yours is original; I would rebuild your carrier to your desire.
Thanks to all who chimed in. Rebuilding mine is an option I am considering, but if the swap involves air tools and new u-joints, then I am leaning that way. On my limited budget, rebuiilding with the shipping and labor charges is steering me toward another option. If his isn't professionally rebuilt, then I'll farm out the job.

This forum rocks with folks like you helping me out
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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Try this out, I did all the work myself. I have all the special tools for the carrier and the swing arms, too bad you don't live closer. OH, most of the work as my daughter helped a little

http://www.428gto.com/l46/1969corvet...earrebuild.htm
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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air tools NOT required, just make little easier, I have done many and only used air tools once, just finished putting mine back in without aid of air tools, jack, 2jack stands, and hand tools and that was it. good luck.
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 01:45 AM
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I removed and installed mine twice without any special tools. Although, I used a cheap transmission jack to raise and lower the rear safely; it's heavy! The only difficult part was getting the cross-member to break away from the rubber mounts. My method for this was: I loosened the two bolts a few turns and let the weight of the rear end help to separate the mounts. Then I used a large screw driver to pry apart the mounts. Then used the trans jack to support the weight and then lower it down.

I suggest you call Van Steel and ask them about any special parts you need to do the swap. I like this method because you can always go back to your original differential.

John
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Just swapped mine out thursday night. I purchased the rear here in this forum from a member. I did run into the frt driveshaft yoke was smaller then my original so I swapped them out. The only thing to watch there is that you dont over tighten the nut that would cause the crush spacer to change and then you loose the proper backlash on your gears. Shouldnt be an issue if you just dont over tighten the nut! As for tools it is easier with air tools but is not a must have. Good luck. What gearing are you going to?
Rodney
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rod7515
Just swapped mine out thursday night. I purchased the rear here in this forum from a member. I did run into the frt driveshaft yoke was smaller then my original so I swapped them out. The only thing to watch there is that you dont over tighten the nut that would cause the crush spacer to change and then you loose the proper backlash on your gears. Shouldnt be an issue if you just dont over tighten the nut! As for tools it is easier with air tools but is not a must have. Good luck. What gearing are you going to?
Rodney
Rod and all, thanks for the ideas. I like the 3.36--original to the car and will keep it the same. I know there is a tip on the forum for removing the cross member. After watching various videos on rebuilding the diff, the inch pound torque wrench is this only missing tool if I attempted a rebuild. Reading some of the posts about the yellow paint pattern-one of the final tests in the rebuld is something I need to demystify. If I get to that place, there is no doubt that the amazing folks on this fourm can help me untangle my concerns and assist my learning.
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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Default Removing the Cross member...

Here's an easy method:

With each sombrero bolt loosened about 1/8" (and of course, the rear wheels off), use 2 crow bars - place the ends on either side of the sombrero, one upside down, one right side up - and then pull up on one while pushing down on the other. This gives great leverage and even loading across the bushing. It will let go with a pop! Repeat on the other side.

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