I just bought this 69 which was in the middle of a restoration, so I expected issue. The car had been driving fine for about 500 miles and all of a sudden I'm having issues when shifting.

I was at a stop light, down shifted and couldnt get the car into gear while it was running. I was forced to turn the car off, shift into 1st, start the car and proceed on my drive.

I thought that perhaps the linkage was dirty (the car is mid restoration so the consol is off the car) so I sprayed the shifter linkage with brake cleaner, then applied 3in1 oil and while the car was off ran the shifter through the gears. It did indeed shift much smoother and it removed 40 years of crap from the linkage.

So I figured I would take the car out and see if I had fixed the issue. I started the car and tried to shift in to reverse, i couldnt get the car into reverse and I didnt continue to try because of a horrible grinding noise. My roommate said he saw sparks under the car, Im not sure if thats true though.

So I turned the car off. I then shifted the car into reverse while off, and tried to start the car... the car lunged back when I turned it over and yes, I did have the clutch depressed.

I then left the car in neutral, started the car and tried to put the car in gear, no grinding like when I tried to put the car in reverse, but I could not get the car to shift into any gear.

Any thoughts?

 

you could try adjusting the clutch but it sounds to me like the disc is fried. no funny smells? no smoke?

 

No smoke or smell.

I put the car up a stands and followed the clutch pedal to the Z-bar, from there I noticed the linkage that connected the Z-bar to the fork into the bellhouseing was missing a pin clip. I got a clip, put it in and that seems to have fixed the majority of the issue. The car will shift into gear. But its not shifting like it should.

Also, when I start the car I can go in to 1,2,3 without any issue... If i try to go into reverse I get the grinding again... but I figured ouf if I want to put the car into reverse I can to hold the clutch down for 20-30 seconds, during that time I hear something that is spinning slowing down, (coming down in RPM's
) at which point I can then shift the car into reverse.

I'm guessing the clutch needs to be adjusted because its is sticking?

On that note, how far up should the z-bar connect to the clutch pedal bar that comes out of the fire wall? As of now the connection is right at the end, and Im assuming that this is the issue.

 

Sorry I dont know all of the terms, so no, thats not the clip that was missing, see the pictrue as a guide, ignore the red marks, I didnt do those.



without it, the linkage going to the fork that goes into the bellhouseing wasnt moving.

As for the rest of what you posted... Im already at the end of the threads on the thread on the clutch rod.... and from what you have said, and what I suspect, I need it to be longer to get the clutch to disengage more.

and I should clear this up, Im not sure that the clutch/linkage was working 100% properly, I purchase the car last Sunday 9/9/12 and drove it 600 miles home. That was mostly freeway, so I wasnt running the car through the grears. This issue started up once I was back and driving around on surface streets a few days ago. This is the first manual car I have ever owned, so I didnt think anything of the fact that I had to push the clutch all the way to the floor to get the car into 1st gear. however the other gears dont require that much clutch to engage, I'm not sure if thats normal.

I will put the car back on stands and take a look at what you have described with the fork/pivot ect.

 

How much play should I have in the Throwfork? I can move it up and down as well as back a forth... is that normal?

 

....low gear fluid level

 

I'd bet your clutch needs adjusted as well.

Side note - most transmissions will go into reverse easier if you shift to second, then reverse..

 

Ok, so I pulled the boot off from around the fork, theres a lot of play in the fork around the piviot ball, it seems to just slip up and down off of the pivot ball when the clutch is depressed. Is it possible to adjust the the pivot ball without removing the transmission? I think if I could get the pivot ball a 1/2 inch more toward the front of the car that would take up the slack in the fork/pivotball and fix my issue.

 

If you are using a stock type clutch with the correct throwout bearing (it's what they call the "short style" one) there would be no need for you to install an adjustable pivot ball, and even if you did, the adjustment range of it is nowhere near 1/2 inch ---- Im not sure, I purchased the car from a guy, who purchased the car mid-restoration, so Im not really sure what is stock and what is not, I realize that doesnt help as we get closer to the particulars of this situation.

4) I am trying to get my brain around what you are telling us about your throwout fork "seems to just slip up and down off of the pivot ball when the clutch is depressed."." Here is where I feel the answer is to be found. First, without depressing the pedal, the throwout fork can be jiggled up and down slightly, and you should also be able to move it fore and aft a small amount. However, with someone holding the clutch pedal in, you should basically not be able to move the fork at all, maybe wiggle it up and down a tad, but certainly not fore and aft. When you looked inside the bellhousing, was the indentation on the back of the fork ON the pivot ball?---- yes it is clipped to the pivot ball.

Was the spring metal clip with 2 fingers that is riveted to the fork located around the aft side of the pivot ball?--- yes it is, but when the clutch is depressed, it slips out of the indentation.

Did you observe the throwout bearing sliding fore and aft as you moved the throwout fork fore and aft?--- yes it moves fine, with the exception that has the TO bearing presses the PP the forces causes the indentation to slip off of the pivot ball, even with the forks secured around it.

All of these items were mentioned previously and are crucial. From what you have said, it seems like the spring clip on the fork is broken and the fork is off of the pivot ball. --- it is on, but it is perhaps worn out.

Kudos for trying to fix it yourself - that's how we all keep learning - tell us what you find from these checks - everyone is here to help if we can--- Thank you, Im trying, we shall see how this turns out.

I dont know if this is normal, but I can see what appears to be the back of the pivot ball on the outside of the bellhouseing, it looks as if, I could take it out if I had a large enough allen key. I will try and take a few pictures.