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SO a buddy was helping me set my lifters and stab my Dist. While trying to get it to fire up the car simply stopped doing ANYTHING when I turned the key. No lights, radio, click - NOTHING. Must be a fuse right? Fuses under the dash by the drivers feet are good. The battery charger will click on and off over and over again if the car leads are connected to the battery, but it works fine if they are disconnected. Again, it does nothing. Tell me where to look. Is there another fuse somewhere? The starter was sticking a little as we were running low on juice.
Its a 1971, 4 speed with a 1978 L82 motor.
'preciate it!
OK now WHen I connect the battery terminal to the leads the car turns over - with no key in ignition!
Last edited by Riggs1215; Sep 19, 2012 at 11:17 AM.
The starter solenoid or one of it's connections has an issue. There is a fusible link in the harness. How exactly were you doing "stab. my Dist." with the key or some other means?
Mel,
LOL! you and I saw this at the same time.
My '62 Ford pick-up did this same thing years ago. I went up and bought a new one, about 5 dollars f/ the older ford piece then, mounted on the firewall, and it was fixed. LOL!
Just had to laugh..
Best of luck w/ your wrench turning.
***A funny one w/ my old truck: Flywheel teeth were bad, had to push it off all the time,had the granny 4 speed(3/4 ton.), pushed it several times up my dirt driveway to roll it off, didn't go. I had the key in the "on" position and the manual choke pulled out just alittle w/ trans in 2nd. gear. last time I tried, I was pissed, got out of the truck and slammed the door really hard and the truck moved just alittle and "TOOK OFF' down the driveway, thru the back yard-I couldn't catch the truck on foot-and the truck went nose first down into the creek. LOL! No damage at all, just got a friend to chain up and pull the truck out. LOL! Wish I had filmed it. I finally got rid of the truck after driving it f/ 26 years. A great 6cyl. real tough truck!
this is a 4 speed with the clutch that has to be pushed in to engage the starter. bt it would contunie to spin even with the clutch out and the key out! So i replaced the selindiod - still the only way to get the starter motor from running is to disconnect battery - thoughts?
Does the radio work while the starter is spinning? If not, that would seem to indicate that the ignition switch (not necessarily the key) is stuck in the "start" position because most electrical draws are shut off when you try to start the car. If that's the case then some previous owner may have bypassed the clutch switch.
The other thing it could be is a short circuit that is supplying power to the solenoid ""S" terminal.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Welcome!
Originally Posted by Riggs1215
this is a 4 speed with the clutch that has to be pushed in to engage the starter. bt it would contunie to spin even with the clutch out and the key out! So i replaced the selindiod - still the only way to get the starter motor from running is to disconnect battery - thoughts?
If your new pride and joy turned on and off OK before then you may have some wires crossed at the distributor.
Can you take a picture or confirm if you have HEI or points as both wire up differently.
71 schematic: http://www.vetteprojects.com/bmv/mis...tte%201971.pdf
Also at the starter: if you have points and the purple and yellow are on the same solenoid terminal your motor and starter will stay on. So double check that.
If your new pride and joy turned on and off OK before then you may have some wires crossed at the distributor.
Can you take a picture or confirm if you have HEI or points as both wire up differently.
71 schematic: http://www.vetteprojects.com/bmv/mis...tte%201971.pdf
Also at the starter: if you have points and the purple and yellow are on the same solenoid terminal your motor and starter will stay on. So double check that.
Ok guys. Good stuff. Will take those thoughts to the garage tomorrow!
Yes hei and will have to check dist wires again.
Will let you know.
Mel,
LOL! you and I saw this at the same time.
My '62 Ford pick-up did this same thing years ago. I went up and bought a new one, about 5 dollars f/ the older ford piece then, mounted on the firewall, and it was fixed. LOL!
Just had to laugh..
Best of luck w/ your wrench turning.
***A funny one w/ my old truck: Flywheel teeth were bad, had to push it off all the time,had the granny 4 speed(3/4 ton.), pushed it several times up my dirt driveway to roll it off, didn't go. I had the key in the "on" position and the manual choke pulled out just alittle w/ trans in 2nd. gear. last time I tried, I was pissed, got out of the truck and slammed the door really hard and the truck moved just alittle and "TOOK OFF' down the driveway, thru the back yard-I couldn't catch the truck on foot-and the truck went nose first down into the creek. LOL! No damage at all, just got a friend to chain up and pull the truck out. LOL! Wish I had filmed it. I finally got rid of the truck after driving it f/ 26 years. A great 6cyl. real tough truck!
OK still contines to crank with all plug wires and dist cap off. Will double check connections and then pull starter to bench test, (Should have done this first). Tryin to post a pict - just learning.
Last edited by Riggs1215; Sep 20, 2012 at 01:34 PM.
Reason: spelling
THanks for the diagrams, problem for me is that I have the 71 body with 78 motor, and it is hei but may be after market and the firing order rotation is opposite between these two modles. Trying to discover mine.
THanks for the diagrams, problem for me is that I have the 71 body with 78 motor, and it is hei but may be after market and the firing order rotation is opposite between these two modles. Trying to discover mine.
Both HEI and points have same firing order and rotation. The picture you have posted is a points type distributor.
If your new pride and joy turned on and off OK before then you may have some wires crossed at the distributor.
Can you take a picture or confirm if you have HEI or points as both wire up differently.
71 schematic: http://www.vetteprojects.com/bmv/mis...tte%201971.pdf
Also at the starter: if you have points and the purple and yellow are on the same solenoid terminal your motor and starter will stay on. So double check that.
In the picture you have a points distributor, so as he says above make sure the small S terminal does not have the yellow wire installed only the purple. The solenoid will only run the starter when it has power to the S terminal, or if the solenoid is stuck in the run position. Use the 71 wiring pdf to check for correct wiring connections. The starter does not care whether the distributor has a cap on or not, it has nothing to do with the starter turning.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
My apologies for the incorrect information on the direction of rotation, as MelWff says the 71 schematic is wrong, your distributor rotates clockwise. I did not see that it was incorrect.
At the solenoid:
The purple wire attaches to the small solenoid terminal closest to the block.
The yellow wire connects to the small terminal closest to the fender.
The battery (Black) and a red wire connect to the big top terminal.
There is a small black wire with a big end, it is a ground for the wiper and heater/ac fan motor and it connects to a starter or bell housing bolt.
'Preciate the help gentlemen. Am tracking the problem down.
Got a REAL mechanic coming tonight to help. (as opposed to my enjoyable but uneducated fumblings)
Will let you know what/if we discover the cause for the starter sticking.
Good to have this site!
Awesome post!
And I WIN! Yes the small wire was in bad shape at the connection. Replaced end, still cranked continually, my buddy ran some kind of test and concluded my starter was bad. Well I took his word, replaced starter and she is on when I turn her on and off when the key comes back - happy camper!
Tomorrow I put distributor and plugwires back on and ride - (I hope)!
Last edited by Riggs1215; Sep 20, 2012 at 11:38 PM.