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Removing the engine and tranny

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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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Default Removing the engine and tranny

I thought there was a article about taking out the engine and trans. Now, whether to do it at the same time or at different time. I would like to have the step by step of removing the C3 engine and tranny at the same time. Can anyone help?
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 03:11 PM
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When I pull the engine together with the transmission, can I leave linkage on the trans. The new 350/350hp should be back from the builder next week. Any tips on detailing engine compartment.

My plan is to:
Remove hood
Fan shroud
Radiator
Radiator support
Dizzy
Carb
Exhaust manifolds
Fuel pump line
Power steering pump
Oil pressure line
Starter
2 Bolts from shifter on 4 speed up top
Transmission mount bolts
Drive shaft
Water pump hose
Speed o cable
Tach cable
Alternator plug
Ground cable
2 motor mount bolts

Did I miss anything, it has been 25 years since I did this on my 68 SS, any help would be great. Thanks all for reading

350 / 350+ engine should I change the motor mount to solid ones?
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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the problem with removing the motor and trans together is that as you move the motor forward so the trans clears the firewall, the legs from the engine hoist hit the supports under the car.
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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Unfortunately I didn't write a step by step process for removing the engine and trans but here are a lot of pictures that might be able to help. Good luck with the restoration.

1976 corvette restoration engine removal
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 11:26 PM
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Default Nice job on the 76!

Nice job on the '76!!!
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 11:43 PM
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its actually easier to pull the engine by itself then do the trans due to hoist usually being to short to come in from the front,meaning you have to pull from the side and wrangling the engine and trans as a single unit means scary close to fenders and windshield.if you have a 4 speed you will have to take off the shifter and dont forget the ign.key lock cable.if its automatic then just unbolt the cable and plate and the speedo cable.dont forget all the ground cables like i did or you will rip them off especially the little ones that bolt to the back of the heads and one by the front body mount bracket.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 08:18 AM
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To make the combo of the engine and tranny removal and install work (350 and turbo 400), I had to remove the front wheels and put the car up on jack stands which allowed us to better position the legs of the engine hoist.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 20mercury
Nice job on the '76!!!
Thanks
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Your welcome. You did a beautiful job on your 76. I love the polished mags.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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I took the engine and trans out together, from the side. First, I removed everything from the front of the motor plus the fan shroud and main radiator. I left the radiator support and AC radiator in place and pushed the AC lines and pump under the right fender, so I did not have to drain the system. I put a jack under the trans removed the bolts from the motor mounts, and the trans mount crossmember (with my hoist attached to the motor) I then lowered the jack under the trans so the tail shaft housing sat on a piece of plywood. lifting the motor while sliding the hoist toward the front of the car (a 2X4 under the leg of the hoist let me move it sideways) when the front of the motor cleared the radiator support I was able to reach over and lift the back of the trans over the fender while pulling the hoist out from under the car. I did this by myself, taking my time and checking to make sure I was clearing the bodywork, and that I had not left anything hooked up by mistake.

I made three mistakes, that I did not repeat while putting the new motor and trans in.

#1 keep the car as low to the ground as you can, giving the hoist as much lifting room as possible (I had to lower the car with everything hanging from hoist over it.)

#2 If you use a latex glove, rubber banded over the tail shaft to stop the trans fluid from leaking out; the trans fluid will dissolve the glove about half way through the job! (your garage will look like a scene from Kill Bill).

#3 Do not let the rear end (differential) pivot up, when you pull the drive shaft. You will regret this like a bad marriage!




Good luck.
Zorro

Last edited by Zorro O; Oct 2, 2012 at 01:43 AM.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 10:34 AM
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In addition to all of the advice above, also raise the rear end while lowering the front. This will present a better angle to get the engine/trans unit in and out. I did mine, alone, and creating the angle really helps. You can leae the radiator support in using this method, but be careful because the oil pan will get pretty close. Good Luck.

Bryan
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 1976 corvette
Unfortunately I didn't write a step by step process for removing the engine and trans but here are a lot of pictures that might be able to help. Good luck with the restoration.

1976 corvette restoration engine removal
Did you do that in a weekend?? :O) Great Job! I will start mine in about a month, but adding a rebuild and a lot of go fast parts it will be late spring before it is back in and the new paint is on the car (I hope). Again, you did an awesome job!
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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81 pilot: Thanks for the kind words. I wish it took me a weekend but in reality it took me 112 days but that is because I couldn't work on it full time. Still happy with the results. Best of luck with the vette.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:58 AM
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With the TH400, it sure helps if the front end fiberglass is off
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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Not the best pictures but here is a 400 small block and 400 trans that I removed as one unit from one of my parts cars.



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