Steering Valve rebuild question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown,WV USA
Steering Valve rebuild question
I think I may simply rebuild my power steering value (rather than rely on a rebuild- already had one dud) and have a question.
I disassembled the old valve and the bores look pretty good with the exception of 2 very minor scratches that runs the width of one of the bores. I can not seem to catch my fingernail in it, but I can see it. How pristine do these bores need to be? I can stiil see what looks to be a cross hathching pattern, but those small scratches worry me a little. Here are the pictures:
This one is the outer edge of the valve- points toward the outside of the car. The very outer section (where its a different color) is not a sealing surface
Here is a second picture looking down into the bores:
I doubt you can see the surface of the bores, but they do not look bad.
The thing that concerns me is that I removed that piiston through the wrong end. The instructions on the stainlees steel corvette brake site said to remove it from the inside pushing out but I did the opposite. They say you will screw the bore up, but aside from those two litle scratches I do not see any damage.
The valve was seeming a little but worked fine otherwise. What do the experts think?
Dan
I disassembled the old valve and the bores look pretty good with the exception of 2 very minor scratches that runs the width of one of the bores. I can not seem to catch my fingernail in it, but I can see it. How pristine do these bores need to be? I can stiil see what looks to be a cross hathching pattern, but those small scratches worry me a little. Here are the pictures:
This one is the outer edge of the valve- points toward the outside of the car. The very outer section (where its a different color) is not a sealing surface
Here is a second picture looking down into the bores:
I doubt you can see the surface of the bores, but they do not look bad.
The thing that concerns me is that I removed that piiston through the wrong end. The instructions on the stainlees steel corvette brake site said to remove it from the inside pushing out but I did the opposite. They say you will screw the bore up, but aside from those two litle scratches I do not see any damage.
The valve was seeming a little but worked fine otherwise. What do the experts think?
Dan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
There is a block V seal that slides right in that area of the open end of the housing. I would do two things.
1. First I would get some very fine wet or dry sandpaper or cropus cloth and just lightly polish the scratch that you can see. Clean the bore of any particles and reinstall the valve with a new block V seal.
2. Wet the bore and seal with power steering fluid and slide the valve over the scratch a couple times. Remove the valve and seal from the bore. Carefully wipe the seal lip and look at it under a magnifying glass. If you cannot detect any scratch on the seal tip, I would say that you are good to go. The actual useage of the block V seal will be more severe than your quick test. When you steer the car, the high pressure oil will press the lip against the seal bore a lot harder than your quick and dirty sliding test.
One last comment. When you disassembled the valve in the first place, was there power steering oil in the cavity right behind the stamped end cap? If it was originally dry of PS fluid, then I would say that the scratch wasn't hurting anything.
Jim
1. First I would get some very fine wet or dry sandpaper or cropus cloth and just lightly polish the scratch that you can see. Clean the bore of any particles and reinstall the valve with a new block V seal.
2. Wet the bore and seal with power steering fluid and slide the valve over the scratch a couple times. Remove the valve and seal from the bore. Carefully wipe the seal lip and look at it under a magnifying glass. If you cannot detect any scratch on the seal tip, I would say that you are good to go. The actual useage of the block V seal will be more severe than your quick test. When you steer the car, the high pressure oil will press the lip against the seal bore a lot harder than your quick and dirty sliding test.
One last comment. When you disassembled the valve in the first place, was there power steering oil in the cavity right behind the stamped end cap? If it was originally dry of PS fluid, then I would say that the scratch wasn't hurting anything.
Jim
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown,WV USA
Steering Valve rebuild question Reply to Thread
Jim,
THANK YOU for responding. When you mention the area that the Vseal goes into are you referring to the area that is facing away from the ball stud- where you access the little nut to balance the valve or or is in on the side that attaches to the other part of the valve?
Also, Blairs suggested that I may not be getting enough pressure to the valve because the pressure valve in the pump is clogged. I have been reading up on how to remove it (1inch wrench after I remove the hose). I really do not want to remove the pump from the car and was hoping that its as simple as getting the valve out, checking for burrs, cleaning it (I assume brake cleaner is ok) and replacing it?
Is it really that simple??
Again, thanks,
Dan
THANK YOU for responding. When you mention the area that the Vseal goes into are you referring to the area that is facing away from the ball stud- where you access the little nut to balance the valve or or is in on the side that attaches to the other part of the valve?
Also, Blairs suggested that I may not be getting enough pressure to the valve because the pressure valve in the pump is clogged. I have been reading up on how to remove it (1inch wrench after I remove the hose). I really do not want to remove the pump from the car and was hoping that its as simple as getting the valve out, checking for burrs, cleaning it (I assume brake cleaner is ok) and replacing it?
Is it really that simple??
Again, thanks,
Dan
There is a block V seal that slides right in that area of the open end of the housing. I would do two things.
1. First I would get some very fine wet or dry sandpaper or cropus cloth and just lightly polish the scratch that you can see. Clean the bore of any particles and reinstall the valve with a new block V seal.
2. Wet the bore and seal with power steering fluid and slide the valve over the scratch a couple times. Remove the valve and seal from the bore. Carefully wipe the seal lip and look at it under a magnifying glass. If you cannot detect any scratch on the seal tip, I would say that you are good to go. The actual useage of the block V seal will be more severe than your quick test. When you steer the car, the high pressure oil will press the lip against the seal bore a lot harder than your quick and dirty sliding test.
One last comment. When you disassembled the valve in the first place, was there power steering oil in the cavity right behind the stamped end cap? If it was originally dry of PS fluid, then I would say that the scratch wasn't hurting anything.
Jim
1. First I would get some very fine wet or dry sandpaper or cropus cloth and just lightly polish the scratch that you can see. Clean the bore of any particles and reinstall the valve with a new block V seal.
2. Wet the bore and seal with power steering fluid and slide the valve over the scratch a couple times. Remove the valve and seal from the bore. Carefully wipe the seal lip and look at it under a magnifying glass. If you cannot detect any scratch on the seal tip, I would say that you are good to go. The actual useage of the block V seal will be more severe than your quick test. When you steer the car, the high pressure oil will press the lip against the seal bore a lot harder than your quick and dirty sliding test.
One last comment. When you disassembled the valve in the first place, was there power steering oil in the cavity right behind the stamped end cap? If it was originally dry of PS fluid, then I would say that the scratch wasn't hurting anything.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
first, not selling, but with all the issues with these 40 year old parts, and that they were marginal when new, the borgeson or the r&p setups are the better way to go. I completely rebuilt my oe setup, it worked fine , but I didnt like all the various parts. I installed the borge on mine and now have done the conversion for three friends. it ends the b.s
Had I the extra 500 I would've went with the r&p.
Had I the extra 500 I would've went with the r&p.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
Yes, I am talking about the end of the valve furthest from the ball stud. There should have been a stamped end cap that pressed into that end.
A new block V seal should have a sealing edge that is quite sharp if you look at it with a magnifying glass. A seal that has been in use for years and years would have a rounded edge from wearing against the valve bore. A worn, rounded edge could seep fluid. When you removed the stamped end cap, you may have found some power steering fluid in that cavity.
BTW, I always recommend that you use genuine General Motors power steering fluid part number 89020661 or AC Delco 89021182. I really does work best with the Saginaw pump, hoses, and other components.
I do NOT recommend the Dexron-VI (Dex 6) that GM is touting as a universal power steering and automatic transmission fluid.
Jim
A new block V seal should have a sealing edge that is quite sharp if you look at it with a magnifying glass. A seal that has been in use for years and years would have a rounded edge from wearing against the valve bore. A worn, rounded edge could seep fluid. When you removed the stamped end cap, you may have found some power steering fluid in that cavity.
BTW, I always recommend that you use genuine General Motors power steering fluid part number 89020661 or AC Delco 89021182. I really does work best with the Saginaw pump, hoses, and other components.
I do NOT recommend the Dexron-VI (Dex 6) that GM is touting as a universal power steering and automatic transmission fluid.
Jim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 845
Likes: 54
From: Bangor, Northern Ireland
first, not selling, but with all the issues with these 40 year old parts, and that they were marginal when new, the borgeson or the r&p setups are the better way to go. I completely rebuilt my oe setup, it worked fine , but I didnt like all the various parts. I installed the borge on mine and now have done the conversion for three friends. it ends the b.s
Had I the extra 500 I would've went with the r&p.
Had I the extra 500 I would've went with the r&p.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown,WV USA
Steering Valve rebuild question Reply to Thread
Crap...I removed that pressure valve from the back of the pump without much trouble and found the screen to be covered in grey stuff. I cleaned it with brake cleaner on the inside & out, poured some steering fluid through the pump to flush it and got it back together.
I reinstalled the control valve from Blairs and tried it again. The valve centered much faster but I still have no power steering. The only change I have made in the car since all this started is that darn control valve. Blairs said they would be glad to send me a vavle, but the valve has nothing to do with the pressure to the wheels (I am having a hard time following that but they have been at this longer than I have).
I will now rebuild my old one and try it to see if the power steering is restored.Geeze this is frustrating!
Dan
I reinstalled the control valve from Blairs and tried it again. The valve centered much faster but I still have no power steering. The only change I have made in the car since all this started is that darn control valve. Blairs said they would be glad to send me a vavle, but the valve has nothing to do with the pressure to the wheels (I am having a hard time following that but they have been at this longer than I have).
I will now rebuild my old one and try it to see if the power steering is restored.Geeze this is frustrating!
Dan
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Elida OH
we rebuilt our leaky power steering control valve, did It correctly, put it back on, still leaked. Finally ordered a new one from Ecklers, part no A7076. cost $239.99, with a refund of $50 on sendback of old one. We kept our old one and put it with all our original parts in storage boxes. Works perfect, and no leaks. We were going to go with R&P, but don't believe the ads that say you can do it in 4 hours. Some of these require some modifications. I always figure if the instructions say 4 hours it will take us 12.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown,WV USA
Steering Valve rebuild question
an update....I spoke with Blair's and I am back to the control valve. They are shipping me a another one and I will try it (before rebuilding the original). They told me they tested the one they are sending and it worked fine so I will hopefully be back in business.