I am going to hopefully got and attempt to bleed the brakes on my 77, can I get someone to verify what I know. I was told that all I need to do is remove the wheels, then just have someone pump the brakes, then I loosen the bleed screw, let it drain, then tighten back up, then repeat till nomore are or particles, then do that on all 4 calipers. Is this all there is to it? and does the car need to be running or can it be turned off? :confused: Is there anything else I need to know, and can I get a good desription of where the screw is at, i am new to the automechanics world, the reason why I got this car, so I can learn on something I want.
Thanks for the help,
Richard, Save the wave :seeya

 

well your close on the procedure. Your assistant pumps up pressure and holds it as you open the bleeder, preferably with a hose attached leading into a container. You tighten the bleeder back up before the helper lets the pedal up otherwise you'll suck air back in. If you use a hose off the bleeder into a container with some brake fluid in it you'll see the bubbles as they are forced out and if you don't get the bleeder closed before the pedal is released it'll pull back fluid rather then air. Start on the right rear then left rear, right front then left front. Check brake fluid level in the master cylinder between each wheel. Keep the top of the master cylinder on and the car doesn't have to be running.
Someone else will have to chime in about the inner/outer rear bleeders and the sequence recommended to do those.
Good Luck
Scott

 

thanks for the info. is will any house work or is there a certain kind i should use?

 

For as short a time as your going to use it any hose will work. Now the rears have 2 bleeders each I always do the outside ones first then the inside. But that might be azz-backward to the prescribed method, but it's worked for me.

Scott

 

thanks for the info, and I think Iwill do it your way, time to go do it, thanks.

 

No. The procedure is incorrect. Your state's DMV and/or Bureau of Automotive Repair will have a brake and inspection handbook that tells you how to bleed hydrolic brakes.

Here's what I learned from the CA brake handbook:

1. Inspect the master cylinder. If you can't see the bottom of the reservoirs then the fluid is too dirty. Use a clear fuel line to suck the fluid out...you can get such a hose at almost any auto parts store. There is also a "two man bleeder kit" available in a package that includes the hose and a bottle to catch the fluid as it comes out of the bleeder. Do not use any cloth or anything other than brake fluid to clean the reservoir...after sucking out all the fluid then splash some fresh fluid in the reservoirs and rub with your fingers (use chemical gloves to protect your hands...they are available at paint stores). Fill with fresh fluid so you can see the bottom of the reservoir. Be sure to put the cover back on the master cylinder!

2. Start at the cylinder furthest from the master cylinder.
3. Slip a box end wrench onto the bleeder nut, then attach the hose to the bleeder nipple. Attach the other end of the hose to the bottle (the bottle with the kit has a magnet so you can clip it to the rotor).
4. Open the bleeder no more than 1/4 turn. Leave it open cause you need to pump all the old brake fluid out until it's clear coming out the bleeder.
5. If you have power brakes then start your car and let it idle. Pump the brakes about 25 times while watching the hose so you can watch for clear fluid, and bubbles. On the last pump keep the pedal down and hold it down while the bleeder is closed...only close with about 15ftlbs, don't torque it down. If you are doing it by yourself then use a 2' 2x4 and a towel to protect the seat, and wedge the 2x4 between the brake pedal and seat to keep the pedal down while tightening the bleeder.
6. Check the reservior levels and refill with fresh brake fluid...never reu-use the fluid! Also, be sure to put the cover back on!
7. Repeat 4 through 6 until you see fresh bubble free fluid coming out the hose. If it's clear, but you still have bubbles then you may have a leak, but before checking leaks go ahead and bleed all the calipers, in case more of them are leaking. The bleeding sequence for Stingrays are RRI, RRO, LRI, LRO, RF, LF.


The bleeders will be located near the top of the calipers. The rear calipers have two at the top...there may be bleeders at the bottom too, but ignore them cause bubba didn't have a plug so he used a spare bleeder to plug it. I believe the bleeder nuts are 1/4"

 

The proper sequence from the factory is as follows: inside left rear; outside left rear; inside right rear; outside right rear; right front; left front. I know this goes against how many of us were taught. Also, look at a thread on this page started by phoenix. Do some searching and you will find many recent threads. I would suggest you flush the entire system, then bleed. :cheers:

 

I have heard that brake fluid eats paint, but thankfully have never seen it happen.

 

Stevo:
You heard right. It will take a frame down to metal, engine bay, other parts. Body paint is more impervious to brake fluid and wax helps a lot. If it cleaned up quickly, no problem. I don`t take chances. Fender covers are the way to go. I use big old bath towels, but they will slip and they will soak up fluids-not good sitting on a fender, so I keep a close eye on them. Worse than brake fluid are belt buckles, keys, zippers, buttons, etc. "Gee, where did that scratch come from?" :cheers:

 

Thanks for all the info, we did the rear Brakes tonight, my dad (my brake pumper) got tired so we decided to do the rest tomorrow along with the belts, if we get them done I might be able to drive that 454 around some tomorrow night, that just sounds like lots of fun :D