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Headers and starters, help me cool off!

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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Default Headers and starters, help me cool off!

I have a small block in my 70 with ceramic coated headers. It also has a full size, stock starter. The heat is killing it and i need to replace it. Any recomandations on how to help solve this? I was thinking of installing a mini starter simply cause it's smaller and further away from the header? Am i right? Any ideas?
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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The mini starter should help quite a bit. Not only is it smaller, but requires less amps to run which means you're less likely to hit the heat soak issue on that front as well.

I'm running the GM one with a 168 tooth flywheel.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 05:11 PM
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4 speed or auto.. , stock set up, can i just purchase one or must i remove it and have the shop count the flywheel teeth? Any brand better then others i see a wide range of prices.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by red70stingray
4 speed or auto.. , stock set up, can i just purchase one or must i remove it and have the shop count the flywheel teeth? Any brand better then others i see a wide range of prices.
I can't speak for the GM mini starter, but my Powermaster mini starter has bolt holes for both tooth counts. Also I had to shim the hell out of my Powermaster before it quit missing the teeth every 4 attempted crank. I had to purchase extra shims from Summit. Just FYI.
Good luck!
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by red70stingray
4 speed or auto.. , stock set up, can i just purchase one or must i remove it and have the shop count the flywheel teeth? Any brand better then others i see a wide range of prices.
Easiest way to figure out what you have is by looking at the starter. If it's OEM, a 153 tooth flywheel will have the starter bolts inline while the 168 will have them staggered.

I was running a 700R4 with the GM starter but am now running a TKO, it turns both just fine.

From the factory, auto cars got aluminum nose cone starters and manual cars got iron nose cone. Why that was, couldn't tell you.

The starter PN I'm using is 12606096 and it's recommended for both auto and manual.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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[QUOTE=Shark Racer;1581987292]Easiest way to figure out what you have is by looking at the starter. If it's OEM, a 153 tooth flywheel will have the starter bolts inline while the 168 will have them staggered.

I was going to ask the diff from in line to staggered... i will take a look in the AM!...

I have seen multi drilled in line starters with shims and bolts included.
I will check them out closer.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 07:26 AM
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perhaps the lowest cost solution is it add a small fan. Switch it on whenever u feel it will be very hot on re-start. Any starter will be more powerful when it is cooler, due to copper wire having more resistance hot.
So just now i crawled under and it looks to me that my 120mm(4.7") fan will work fine and not need a duct. attach to shield on frame and angle toward starter. Draws ~ 1/2 amp and costs $4.
I found out how fantastic fans are when i hooked 1 to cool the carb and keep it from boiling on a hot soak.

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Oct 4, 2012 at 08:58 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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Ministarter and dont look back.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:03 AM
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I switched to Powermaster mini .... problem solved ......
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:55 AM
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Has anyone tried one of these from ebay?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-BBC-CHEV...&forceRpt=true
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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That unit does look nice. The only input i have is that i bought alot of stuff from that seller and there was never a problem.
I'll put it another way... bought a custom car cover from California custom car cover and needed extra material for a repair. No problem getting it, but it didnt come from California!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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I bought a starter heat shield fabric kit from Summit. You surround the starter in the fabric with band clamps. Works great.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14150/

Last edited by Street Rat; Oct 5, 2012 at 09:54 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:44 PM
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http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1319-n...sdr0031-l.aspx

For $60 your troubles will be over.
I've been using one for several years and it spins my big block with no trouble, even hot.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1319-n...sdr0031-l.aspx

For $60 your troubles will be over.
I've been using one for several years and it spins my big block with no trouble, even hot.
That looks very similar to the GM one I bought. Wonder if it's a refurb of that.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 03:17 AM
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I went to the local parts store. Purchased a starter for a 96 gmc . Only thing I needed to buy was shorter bolts to install. It's a much smaller starter, weighs like 8 lbs. Plenty of tork,,,,,solved my heat soak problem.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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A wrapped blanket around the starter, will also keep heat in the starter. Not good.
if you want to use a shield, use a solid metal stamped shield, which will allow for air flow cooling,
not a blanket wrap, on an electric motor , this will shorten the life of the motor/starter.
this is why most Industrial electric motors have fans built in, to push the heat out of the motor.
show me 1 electric motor manufacturer that would recommend wrapping up thier electric motor.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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I installed a Powermaster mini starter in my 77 - L82, direct swap for the OEM, no shims, no interference, no heat problems, at least 10 pounds lighter, and it starts the engine without any problems. only down side is it costs more than stock.
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1319-n...sdr0031-l.aspx

For $60 your troubles will be over.
I've been using one for several years and it spins my big block with no trouble, even hot.
Thanks for the link! I plan to order. I traced my hot start poor crank to a weak battery. I can save $30 by using a 25# battery, as the amp draw is about half. So a total weight savings of 20+lbs, and it pays for itself after 2 new batteries! WIN WIN
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