Crossfire injection troubleshooting. Surging Idle...
Got the car, didn't run or drive.

Replaced the battery, fuel pump, fuel pump sock and little connecting tube on sender unit, replaced fuel filter and one injector.
Now the car runs

but wont idle properly. Surges.

Replaced original spark plugs and wires.
Redid the top plate gasket, TBI gaskets and replaced the MAP sensor.
Seems to run better.

Will idle nice for around thirty seconds, high at first, and then as idle decreases it then goes back to its old habit of surging.

No check engine lights. Already plugged off vacuum at the main port on the rear of the manifold (to headlights and cruise) no change.
How bad would a broken egr soleniod connector make the idle? Do you think its s problem with the ECM?
Thanks in advance!
I can't remember how the choke is on those engines.
Did you set the timing properly?
You replaced one injector...how is the other one?
Air filters?
The ECM is most likely fine. Those things are fairly stable.
There are also some treads on balancing the TBs and making certain the TPS is adjusted properly .....
You said you redid the top plate (plenum) seal. Silicon doesn't cut it. You need the felpro gasket or it will leak
Got the car, didn't run or drive.

Replaced the battery, fuel pump, fuel pump sock and little connecting tube on sender unit, replaced fuel filter and one injector.
Now the car runs

but wont idle properly. Surges.

Replaced original spark plugs and wires.
Redid the top plate gasket, TBI gaskets and replaced the MAP sensor.
Seems to run better.

Will idle nice for around thirty seconds, high at first, and then as idle decreases it then goes back to its old habit of surging.

No check engine lights. Already plugged off vacuum at the main port on the rear of the manifold (to headlights and cruise) no change.
How bad would a broken egr soleniod connector make the idle? Do you think its s problem with the ECM?
Thanks in advance!
On cold start the ECM receives a signal from the CTS (collant Temp sensor) just below the thermostat housing. When warm it runs off the MAP,02 and TPS and some other sensors. After warm up the TPS plays a roll, it tells the ECM the position of the throttle plates, its how the ECM knows if you are idling or excellerating. If the TPS is set wrong ECM will think the idle is low and try to compensate. You need to make sure some of this basic stuff is not the cause, do you know how to adjust the TPS?
Surging could be caused by a number of things.
First cause is TBI tampering. See if the they were tampered with. the throttle plate angles will be different, use those slits I mentioned to see if they are different.
Second is if the throttle plates have been opened too much. I've played with this by opening them too much and the engine will surge. You should see part of the slit near the 12 o'clock position if the plates are close to factory settings. Thats provided they were tampered with, you need to see if the caps are popped of the adjustment ports and weld is broken of the idle screw onthe linkage, if this was done they have probably been tampered with.
Next is the IAC's. there is one on each TBI, they are on the front with harness wires going to them. With the air filter off, give it some throttle. Look down the holes in the TBI's at aboout the 5 o'clock position. Both IAC's have a pin, they cycle in and out and control air flow. Both should more exactly the same distance at exactly the same time.
If the timing is to advanced the idle will sure. You need a timing light to check this. Eyeball the distributor. Doe it look like its been moved, It should sit with the wires on the driverside prety well exactly at 3 o'clock.
Vacuum leaks are a major cause. You can eliminate all sources of vacuum leaks by disconnecting all hoses on the engine, i.e. disconnect EGR hose, hose to head lights, hose to PVC, hose to cruise control (if equipped) and hose to brake booster. See if surge stopes with each disconnect. Make sure to plug all ports hoses were disconnected from.
You say you changed the lid gasket. I hope you mean you changed it with the correct gasket, no silicon or home made gasket, they won't work.
Set the TPS to .525. You need a meter and two paper clips to stick inot the harnes to do this. You can take a reading for starters. Is it at .525 or within .007 of .525.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; Oct 11, 2012 at 10:07 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
There are also some treads on balancing the TBs and making certain the TPS is adjusted properly .....
You said you redid the top plate (plenum) seal. Silicon doesn't cut it. You need the felpro gasket or it will leak
On cold start the ECM receives a signal from the CTS (collant Temp sensor) just below the thermostat housing. When warm it runs off the MAP,02 and TPS and some other sensors. After warm up the TPS plays a roll, it tells the ECM the position of the throttle plates, its how the ECM knows if you are idling or excellerating. If the TPS is set wrong ECM will think the idle is low and try to compensate. You need to make sure some of this basic stuff is not the cause, do you know how to adjust the TPS?
Surging could be caused by a number of things.
First cause is TBI tampering. See if the they were tampered with. the throttle plate angles will be different, use those slits I mentioned to see if they are different.
Second is if the throttle plates have been opened too much. I've played with this by opening them too much and the engine will surge. You should see part of the slit near the 12 o'clock position if the plates are close to factory settings. Thats provided they were tampered with, you need to see if the caps are popped of the adjustment ports and weld is broken of the idle screw onthe linkage, if this was done they have probably been tampered with.
Next is the IAC's. there is one on each TBI, they are on the front with harness wires going to them. With the air filter off, give it some throttle. Look down the holes in the TBI's at aboout the 5 o'clock position. Both IAC's have a pin, they cycle in and out and control air flow. Both should more exactly the same distance at exactly the same time.
If the timing is to advanced the idle will sure. You need a timing light to check this. Eyeball the distributor. Doe it look like its been moved, It should sit with the wires on the driverside prety well exactly at 3 o'clock.
Vacuum leaks are a major cause. You can eliminate all sources of vacuum leaks by disconnecting all hoses on the engine, i.e. disconnect EGR hose, hose to head lights, hose to PVC, hose to cruise control (if equipped) and hose to brake booster. See if surge stopes with each disconnect. Make sure to plug all ports hoses were disconnected from.
You say you changed the lid gasket. I hope you mean you changed it with the correct gasket, no silicon or home made gasket, they won't work.
Set the TPS to .525. You need a meter and two paper clips to stick inot the harnes to do this. You can take a reading for starters. Is it at .525 or within .007 of .525.
Jim
Im thinking ECM, but I dont want to just throw parts at it, already did that...
Spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and injectors,TBI gaskets, and top plate gaskets. They all have improved how well the car runs and starts.
The three things you mention I have not attempted. I was thinking the next thing I would try is to see if the timing is off.
Spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and injectors,TBI gaskets, and top plate gaskets. They all have improved how well the car runs and starts.
The three things you mention I have not attempted. I was thinking the next thing I would try is to see if the timing is off.
Jim
Not trying to be overly critical, but, good gosh, did you not see this?

Until a cap is put on that, EVERYTHING else above is useless. Unbelievable - sorry but cannot believe such an obvious problem was not even recognized.
Last edited by Wrecked82; Oct 25, 2012 at 09:06 PM.




















