When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Little background: I have a 79 L48 that I have been fixing up over the last few years and I have replaced all the body mounts and front end bushings, shocks, springs, steering pump and cylinder, tires and brakes among a lot of other things. Finally took my car up to get a front end alignment done. Guy said he could not do it because the rear tires were moving too much. He showed me what he was talking about. He had the car up on the alignment lift and he grabbed the rear tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and the tire moved probably an 1 inch in and out (maybe more) and he said that he could not do an alignment with that much play.
My question is.....what do you think would cause this? Is this normal and should I just take it somewhere else to get the alignment done? I took it to tread quarters and they have always done a good job on my other cars.
The only thing I have ever done to the rear end is shocks, body mounts, brakes and u joints. I do have a fiberglass rear spring.
Yes Sir; I would say that the bearings are bad or the trailing arm bushing are gone, or the strut rods are bad. Or all three units bad, These cars are 30 years & older, they need them all changed. The frame shop did you a favor, not going ahead on alignment work. Have a great day. Gene
Well that does not sound good. I did do the bushings on the strut rods so it looks like I am in for the wonderful trailing arms removal and rebuild...... I will probably send them in to get them done. Let the work and investigation begin.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I believe it is something other than bearings. Put the car back on the lift have him work the wheel again and watch the half shaft where it enters the rear end housing. I am guessing the c-clip on the half shaft have came off and allowing the movement you are seeing.
With that much play, it's likely that the yikes have worn to the point that the spring clamps have worn off, and the ends are likely 'mushroomed'.
The side yokes are designed to wear against the center pin in the differential. As they wear you will get more, and more of that camber play. The amout you are seeing is WAY past what is normal.
My guess is you need to have the yokes replaced, and you should probably have the diff rebuilt at the same time.
There was just a big long post on this very topic only acouple of weeks back. The guy in Dallas who does rear-ends and another couple guys knew all about it. One guy posted the topic as he had about 1/2" of in and out play on his rear axles.
One of those guys will chime in soon I'd think, or you can do a search on the topic. Like I said, the last time this was discussed, these guys got into alot of detail. I'd try and explain, but the other guys were way deeper than I could ever get.
*****Just went thru afew old posts, and the guy who rebuilds rear-ends is "Tracdogg2." Message this guy and he'll get you squared away. I may be wrong, but I'm about 99.999% sure this is the guy.
Last edited by texas jim; Oct 15, 2012 at 12:58 AM.
Thank you. I will start searching. Hopefully this is something that is not that difficult or expensive. I have never done anything to the rear end, maybe it is time.
I think I found the thread with Lars and Tracdogg2 discussing how to check the bearing and yoke. I will test to night and see what I come up with. Damn Damn Damn!
I think I found the thread with Lars and Tracdogg2 discussing how to check the bearing and yoke. I will test to night and see what I come up with. Damn Damn Damn!
I believe it is something other than bearings. Put the car back on the lift have him work the wheel again and watch the half shaft where it enters the rear end housing. I am guessing the c-clip on the half shaft have came off and allowing the movement you are seeing.
I have to wait until this evening to check my yoke play. Thanks Phil, I don't know which one will be more expensive/ time consuming.....yokes or trailing arms.
I observed that the snubber bushing on the front of my rear end was wasted and had a solid 1/4" gap, allowing the rear end to roll forward and backward which is perhaps amplifying the problem.
I've purchased a new urethane bushing which I have not yet installed.
Unfortunately, I got to fixing this problem just as I was fixing what I thought to be a fueling problem on my car. Alas, after nearly $1k in parts, it wasn't just a fueling problem after all. In my quest to find out what's wrong with my engine, I'm to the point where I'm actually removing it from the car. Sounds extreme, but once you get to the point of being able to slide the cam out, you're only a dozen or so bolts away from pulling the whole darn thing.
Once I get the stupid engine back together and replace the snubber bushing, I'll let you know if it worked!!!
Last edited by keithinspace; Oct 15, 2012 at 12:08 PM.
I went out and jacked my car up to check things out. I put the jack under the differential and jacked it up high enough for my tires to be off the ground and blocked the front tires. Put the car in neutral and proceeded to see if I could move my tires in and out like the guy that was going to do my alignment.
I could not get my tires to move at all in the 12/6 position/ 10 and 4, 3 and 9 or any position. If I remember right, the guy had my car on the car lift and supported behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires and when he shook the tire, it moved a lot. Maybe what I saw moving was the whole car because I can not for the life of me get the tires to move at all in any direction except round and round.
Do you think I should just go and try another shop and see what they say?
Would jacking it up in a different location produce different results when I try to move the tire?
Should I put jack stands under the shocks and try to take pressure off the spring and trailing arm and then see if I have movement?
I've run into a similar problem. I noticed a roar from the rear of my '79 that got louder with speed, got quieter with deceleration. Placed the car on a lift and the right rear wheel has some play. The diff has a leak at the pinion gear. I could see $$$ signs in the repair guy's eyes - he figures that X-mas vacation is about to be financed. Since it's closing in on winter, I'm going to rebuild the entire rear end before spring myself. Wheel bearings, U-joints, new poly bushings, brake pads, etc. are going to be replaced.
Corvette Central has a video for $19.95 that is suppose to be a preview of what to expect when rebuilding the suspension system. Maybe the OP will do like me and buy it, just to see how things fit together.
I may have to do that. FIrst I want to find out if I really do have a problem or maybe it was just the alignment shop. I may get a second opinion this weekend.
I have the service manual and it looks like the differential is pretty high on the "this in not enjoyable" scale......we will see.
The Video would be a great idea, in my opinion. I bought the Van Steel one years ago & have since worn it out. It shows all suspension parts coming off the car, Front & Rear. All bolts, nuts & washers. Safety tips & all, You will be hard pressed to beat it. That might be the one that Corvette Central is selling. Have a great day. Gene
I could not get my tires to move at all in the 12/6 position/ 10 and 4, 3 and 9 or any position. If I remember right, the guy had my car on the car lift and supported behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires and when he shook the tire, it moved a lot. Maybe what I saw moving was the whole car because I can not for the life of me get the tires to move at all in any direction except round and round.
Do you think I should just go and try another shop and see what they say?
Hi Dgood,
The alignment guy probably raised the rear by the spring, removing all the load off the suspension.
You can jack it up either by the diff or the frame just in front of the rear tire. Either way you are still fighting spring tension. The reason you couldn't find any play is you weren't using enough force. Jack the car back up. Put both hands at 12 o'clock. Shove hard like you are trying to push over a fridge. You will feel a lot of play. You may need to have someone else shove on the tire while you watch the stub axle at the differential.
The correct position for checking bearing play is 10 and 4 o'clock on the left rear and 8 & 2 o'clock on the right rear. To get a true idea of wheel bearing play you need to remove the caliper.
Obas,
The only special tools needed are a good set of 90 degree snap ring pliers. But the job always escalates.