Im buying 2 solo baric 12'' L7 subs for my car, what amp will power both these subs, i need like 600 watts to each, their rated at 750 watts rms and 1500 watts peak...

i have no clue how to hook up amps or anything or any of the 400 x 4 @ 2 ohms type of deal...i know the subs can be ordered in 2 ohm or 4 ohm dual voice coil (DVC), what amp would power these subs?

 

750 watts each??? Those are some massive subs!!!! :eek: :eek:

You are going to need a massive amp to power just them (somewhere upwards of 1200 watts - or 600x2) ... then you will need another amp for your mids and highs!!! (so you can hear something besides base)

I don't even know which direction to guide you with that strong of a system... the only reccomendation I have is to try over in the Audio Section. There are a couple of guys that really know audio!

That kind of power means a high output alt, crossovers, and plenty of spaghetti!

Good Luck with the install and take pics!!! :cheers:

 

hehe yeah i posted in the audio forum but that forum is almost dead and the people that visit it are c3-hatin c5ers (j/k c5ers no hate only love), but i got a c4er to help me out alot, found a nice amp to power them, orion xtr 1400, 1400 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms or 700 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms....i hope this system shakes the cars near me while my tires smoke them up :-) :cheers:

 

do you know if you have dual 2 or 4 ohm subs? If you want to wire them together I'd recommend an old fosgate 1100a2 if you can find one on ebay, they are great for the money and underrated you could also use an 1100a4 bridged, orion makes great amps but they are expensive and I would use them highs and mids, where quality is more important, the fosgate amps are more than clean enough for subs and tehy offer raw power the 1100 is way underrated pushing around 1450 watts, remember to break those L7's in for a few weeks or you will blow them.

 

When dealing with speakers and amps, you need to consider more than just the power. A VERY important specification is the frequency. If you send too high of a frequency into those subs then you can fry them. Most subs can't handle anything above 300Hz, and even that is pushing it. Be sure your head unit has an active crossover...NOT passive. When you are playing with that much power a passive crossover will weigh in at a little over 10 lbs and leak noise like a nursing baby.

Since you have already bought the speakers (normally a system design begins with the amp, but let's not go there), then get the specs on them...probably something like 10-120Hz, or possibly 5-180Hz. The amp you want will have a sub woofer output using an active crossover rated at around 100Hz or 150Hz depending on which of the two speaker specs I am using as an example. Also, it's important to see a chart at how fast the frequency cut off happens. Even though the crossover is rated at 150Hz, there will be a decible (db) rating at what level the cutoff is rated, cheap amps will still have some frequency leakage at around 5-10db up to nearly 200Hz or 300Hz, again depending on which of the two speaker specs I am using as an example.

If you would like I could take a look at the specs, just post the web sites of the speakers and amp and I'll do the math for you. Personally I would go with Alpine for everything...but that's cause I only want the best quality and am willing to pay the price. I did buy a vette with less than 40K miles and in near show condition just as an example. :)

 

alpine was the best in the late 80's to the mid 90's, I'd call them mid level as far as amps and subs go at best, especially in the sub dept, but they are expensive. Any quality amplifier today has a built in crossover which can be set relatively accurate. L7's fq response is 20-100Hz, the crossover should be set at 85-90 Hz anything higher and they will sound muddy because they really are hitting 20 Hz and 150Hz makes them way too busy. fosgate and their cheaper lightning audio division are my fav's for running subs, because they are cheap and good quality and you always get more than you expect, I do like the older models because, like alpine, their quality has declined but they are still my pick for cost/wattage/quality efficiency with MTX and Kenwood as runner ups.

 

heres the specs on one of the orion amps:

XTRPRO 2400

POWER OUTPUT
1 x 1200 @ 4 Ohm
1 x 2400 @ 2 Ohm

SIGNAL PROCESSING
Variable Low-pass 45Hz to 250Hz, variable high-pass with INTELLi Q 10Hz to 250 Hz, 10dB of boost with INTELLi Q

FUSE SIZE
Externally Fused

DIMENSIONS
26.5" x 10.25" x 2.25"
(673mm x 260mm x 57mm)

and here is the other orion amp specs:

POWER OUTPUT
2 x 350 @ 4 Ohm
2 x 700 @ 2 Ohm
1 x 1400 @ 4 Ohm
SINGNAL PROCESSING
Varible Low-pass 45Hz to 5kHz, variable high-pass with INTELLi Q 10Hz to 10kHz, 10dB of boost with INTELLi Q, remote gain capable, selectable AUX out
FUSE SIZE
(6) 30 ATC
DINEMSIONS
25" x 10.25" x 2.25"
(635mm x 260mm x 57mm)


Built on a reputation of quality and reliability, the XTREME amplifiers embody the true meaning of power and performance. Delivering massive power from ORION's exclusive PRS power supply, there isn't a stronger amplifier on the market. Our complimentary bi-polar output stage, commonly found in audiophile home amplifiers, offers superior clarity and transparency that is impossible with common amplifier designs. For system flexibility the XTREME series of amplifiers offer a fully adjustable crossover, dual gains and ORION's proprietary subwoofer maximizing circuit, INTELLi Q. Engineered for those who aren't willing to accept compromise and take it to the XTREME.

 

Personally I would like to have a spike strip that blows up audio systems in cars like yours positioned in front of my house. When I am sitting in my house at night and some dude goes rolling down the street vibrating the pictures on my wall it really pisses me off. Not to mention when I am at a stoplight and my rear views mirror are all fuzzy becuase I am being forced to listen to some jokers stereo system.

Hey I like a good sound system in a car, but if your goal is to make other people around you listen to it then I just don't think that is right.

End of rant. (stepping off of soap box)

 

anyway...

it seems like your set on orion, you probably don't need 2400 watts, but L7's do like the power that 1400 would be great you just need to figure out what youre final impedance will be so you get the rated power from the amp or else youll be wasting money, I still like fosgate for subs I can't tell the diff in sq between orion/ppi and I've owned the best of everything, right know I'm putting a 10L7 in my vette with 750 watt autotek amp running it at 1 0hm, if money is not that important go with orion, I think they have remote gain with the amp or sold seperate which will be nice if you don't have non fade preout on your deck because youre not gonna want those subs full blast in your ears at all times. you are gonna need some good highs to cut through taht bass and that can cost quite a bit...

 

CAn i run the subs at 1 ohm? Money is a big deal to me as im only 17 :) Id like the cheapest amp possible (not sacraficing price for quality, a decent priced amp would be a better choice of words)

 

also is there an amp that will power both subs and not hog too much juice so i wont have to replace the altenator?

What class d amp can i use and will the subs (either 2 ohm or 4 ohm dvc, i can choose which ones i want) be possible to be wired to one channel at 2 ohms or 1 ohm?

 

heres a class D sub i can get for a really good deal and it comes with a capacitor and fan free...can i wire my subs to be powered by this amp and how much power will they get (1000 x 1 @ 2 ohms) and which subs would i have to order to get them to work, 2 ohm or 4 ohm DVC?


Lightning Audio S1.1000D

600 watts x 1 at 4 ohms RMS
1000 watts x 1 at 2 ohms RMS
wired remote control included for fingertip control of Punch Bass (boosts bass 0-18 dB, centered at 45 Hz)
MOSFET power supply and output devices
Pass through outputs

 

depends on if you got dual 4 or 2 ohm go to http://www.jlaudio.com and look at wiring diagrams 1 ohm stable amps arent necessarily cheaper per watt, FYI orion makes HCCA amps that are 1ohm stable, I would go with the lightning 1000.1 if you can do 2 ohms mono, it probably runs 1200 watts or so, you are still going to need some good highs. lightning amps are basically the same as fosgate amps and the remote bass is nice.

 

Buy the 4 Ohm Dual Voice coil Solo barics and run them off a Kicker ZR360 amp. you just happened to pick my favorite Sub and the Kicker ZR series amps are perfect matches to them. I have 1 solo baric 10" sub and a Kicker ZR 240 amp that sounds amazing, my friends that run the Solo 12"s are all using the 360 and it sounds great.