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From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
which suspension part!!????
Drove the 76 to work yesterday and noticed an issue somewhere in the suspension but I don't know where to start. Mostly in 2nd in 3rd gear, if I accelerate (say at about 75% throttle) the car seems to "skate" to the right and as I lift off the throttle, it "skates" back to the left. A couple of years ago I replaced the trailing arm bushings, have adjustable strut rods, and have replaced one side yoke in the rear end that was worn out. Im not sure what/how to check next. Whether it is actually goofed up geometry in the front suspension that is only noticable under front end lift (in lower gears under acceleration) or if it's something in the rear suspension.
Start with the front end. Check for worn control arm bushings top and bottom, check that the nuts that hold the upper control arm to the frame didnt loosen and you lost all the alignment shims. Check the idler arm ,center link, etc. Then go to the back and see if you have an issue with the adjustable rods, or the shims in the back dropped out, or you have side yoke play, etc.
When you said skate, do you mean the rear end goes out and back a little or the front? If it's the back you're on the right track, trailing arm bushing, strut rods..etc.
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
yes, by skate, it feels like the back is trying to determine direction, and steering input is required to keep the car in the same lane. if a side yolk is bad/worn, then the trailing arm could move in/out acting as if it was steering the back of the car. I wonder if that is my best bet. I dont' have much time on my hands (probably wont get to actually have a chance to look into any of it for another week or so) But I DO appreciate the feedback I've received thus far. Thanks guys. I'll post back what I find - I'm sure I'll have more questions.
I did replace a VERY worn side yolk about 5 years ago, at that time the other one was fine. Been about 3000 miles total on it since then though......
It's not hard to check everything, just time consuming. Unfortunately we haven't figured out how to squeeze any more hours out of a day, I'm half Dutch and can squeeze a penny and get more but not a day.
I'd suggest replacing everything in pairs - even if it looks fine... but again, you got lots more years use; so there's much also to be said about not fixing what ain't broke.
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
Originally Posted by Phil Zell
I vote for the trailing arm bushings. Been there, done that.
The trailing arm bushings were replaced in 2005(ish), along with a differential side yolk, adjustable strut rods etc. Unless one/both of those have failed in 7years/3000 miles. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll be getting under the car as soon as I can - hopefully next week.
Check your trailing arm shims. Did you use the split/fork ones or the ones with the hole in them? If you didnt put the pin in to keep them in the will walk out and will chance toe as you accelerate on and off the gas.
Last edited by L79racer; Oct 19, 2012 at 01:01 PM.
Thanks for the response. I'll be sure to check that at my next available free time ? (does that happen with a 5 and a 3 year old)
Yes that does happen - in ~10 years.
If you jack the rear up so that both wheels are off the ground you should see if one or both yokes are pulling out of the differential farther than they should be.
My 72 used to head for oncoming traffic every time I stepped on the gas. When I jacked up the rear I saw one of the yokes pulling out ~1/2". The rest of the rear suspension was shot also but this problem was easily identified.
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
Car is finally up on jack stands, rear tires off. How much play (if any) should there be for the side yokes to go in or out? They both move havn't measured how much play there is. All shims and bushings look good for the trailing arms. Bushings on adjustable strut rods look good and tight too.
Its not supposed to have much movement, maybe 1/8 to 3/16". If there is more like 1/2" then the c clip may have broke that holds axle in. I drove my 67 for a long time with one broken and I dont remember it moving all over the place. I ran it very hard.
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
update
Moved the '76 from the diagnosis side of the garage to the shop side of the garage. errr, moved it to the far side of the garage so it wont get in the way of everyday life. Jacked up and removed the rear tires again. Next step will be removing the back half of the exhaust, and half-shafts and rear spring so the rear carrier can be removed.
The rear side yokes should bottom out when pulled outward so you should be able to feel it thud. The snap ring on the end hits the spider gear preventing it from pulling out.
A car that feels like it is driving itself could be many things. Rear wheel bearing, front trailing arm bushings, broken rear leaf spring, missing shims, bad side yoke, parking brake shoe broke loose.
I think most of the above post have covered these possibilities, you'll just have to check everything in the rear.
I vote for the other side yoke is bad. My car is doing the same thing. After changing the half-shaft universals, I found out that one yoke is loose and comes out about a good 1/4".
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
Didnt get to far and noticed this after removing the strut rods and disconnecting the spring bolts - Drivers side is tight - this is the passenger side: (click for video). I cant move the front of the trailing arm inward or outward, but I'm sure my strenght doesn't quite compare to that of the torque that this sees. The fact that I can "twist" it and get so much movement this HAS to be it. I replaced this bushing several years ago - but I'm guessing I did it incorrectly for it to be so loose now.