So I have my 1980 4-speed apart... lifted engine/tranny, shelled the interior, and lifted the body last weekend. A good start for one guy and a weekend. Now I need some input...

I have an old 80 400 sbc block that I was planning on building to keep the swap simple. I built a shopping list from Jegs and quickly racked up $5000 in parts for a hydraulic roller with AFR heads and realized that for that kind of money I should consider an LSx swap. After all, I can get a low miles Corvette LS1 with the computer for $3K OR Jegs has the 525HP LS3 crate for $7500!

I have researched the cost (and hidden costs) of the LSx swaps. I am at the point where I am planning the steering and front suspension rebuilds. I just want to see if anyone has advice on chassis improvements (ie what aftermarket options will or WON'T work with either of the LS swaps. I may be splitting hairs but not having done an LS swap, I don't want any surprises if I spent $1K on suspension and have to go back to stock after I try to wedge in an engine. I am not 100% tied to an LSx swap but it seems to be a good option for a guy who is looking for a fun (450HP, modern steering and suspension, 5 or 6 speed) daily driver (dependable, A/C, power steering, quiet).

Any thoughts, advice, and anecdotes are welcomed.

Mike

 

Can't go wrong with either but keep in mind the cost of the engine is just part of the expense. You will need another $5,000 just to get it running once you buy a harnesses, computers, sensors, accessories, headers and all the hidden costs involved. Not trying to discourage you in ther least, but there are a lott of hidden costs with these installs that many do not factor in. It's a great way to go, just do your homework.

 

I am in the middle of an LS3 swap and the costs add up a lot. It can be down on the cheaper side but there is a lot of small details that are never mentioned. With the cost of the LS3, mine was an 09 18K mile Vette motor I have well over 12K invested. Now Isold my original motor and fule injection for a good price so it is not that bad but there is a lot of cost involved.

 

If I was going to do all the work of swapping over to an LS motor, I'd get an LS3. It's got a lot of improvements over the LS1.

 

For a LS swap the suspension problems will usually be steering interference with the oil pan and/or exhaust. The engine really isn't much different size wise than the small block. Spreader bars, front leaf spring, or coil overs can all be worked out. There are several different oil pans, headers or manifolds, and steering systems. Then what motor mount adapter plates you use can move the engine forward or back a bit. My take is pick your steering system- stock, rack, jeep - (power or manual) then look for a pan and exhaust to fit. I am using Jeep Grand Cherokee steering with 2009 C6 exhaust manifolds, and a 2003 C5 "Bat Wing" oil pan. I have a Cut down truck pan that also worked, but decided to use it on a different project. The reason there is no "one" C3 LS conversion formula is there are way too many equipment variations.

 

All good advice. I appreciate the estimates on cost Corey and Gordon. I know it adds up fast but that figure is helpful so I don't get half way done and realize I went over my expected budget and start looking for cheap ways out. This way I can do it government-style - just budget more!

As I was driving the other 1980 last night I realized that I want THE BEST suspension option. I can live with factory steering. Maybe a mild upgrade. But I want to know, what makes for the best performance and ride in this car? I will build the rest around that. What do you guys think?

I also appreciate the thoughts on the LS3 vs LS1. I am sure I will be looking for the next upgrade after I would get the LS1 in it. The question is, if it takes two years for the complete restoration and I drive it with an LS1 in it for a while would another LS swap be as easy as a generation I engine swap? If I wanted to put in an LS3 or LS7 (maybe the LS9 will be cheap by then) would I have to change accessories, pulleys, computers, motor mounts, or anything else?

If I get the LS1 for $3000 and put it through all the rigors of fitment I will have the cost minimized (it comes with the harness and computer) and I wouldn't put a brand new LS3 on a hoist to be dropped in, pulled out, try another mount, drop, pull, try another pulley, etc. I realize that this will be more work and cost in the 5 year picture but that isn't usually a problem for someone who actually likes having one of these cars

 

As for which engine, it depends on your budget and your goal. You can get 400-425hp out of a LS1 easily, just as you can get 500hp+ out of a LS2/LS3 easily. If you are wanting the latest and greatest you will pay top dollar and keep in mind it will be replaced by the next gen with in 3yrs so goal and budget should be your focus.

As for as suspension "best" would be an aftermarket frame and C6 suspension but at quite a cost. A happy medium world be upgraded parts and coilovers.

 

check out SDPC for better prices on ls stuff.another good place for good prices on sbc parts is competition products.you can find a used ls2 for under $2000 and do a stand alone system using edelbrock #7118.I have a ls1 in my TA and it makes great power ,but I feel you can make great power for the dollar with your 400 block.check out a few places for a affordable 400 rotating assembly .

 

Where are you buying complete low/moderate mile LS2's for under $2,000?

Please send me the link.

 

All of the LSX blocks are the same, (so far) even the iron blocks, so transmission, engine mounts, front accessory mounts, and water pumps will bolt on. You could re-use the hard parts. Early, late, and stand alone crate motor computers have differences as well as the wiring harness, and sensors. So depending on the next engine you could need to change engine management parts. You can also get into more exotic equipment like dry sump oiling on later performance engines. Your LS1 pull-out harness and computer would still need work before it would operate in another car as a stand alone. And (its not my cup of tea), many go with a carburetor and ignition controller on the LSX for quick, easy, and cheap power.

 

I bought a wrecked 2004, took the LS1 and related parts, sold the rest and paid for the swap. All I spent was my labor in the end.

Even mostly stock, the LS1 feels better than the L82 that came with my 77.

Frank

 

Both of these guys make valid points on cost and I am not disputing what they spent, and they have really nice cars. But the costs can be considerably less if you shop around, are not trying to get maximum horsepower or more importantly can do some fabrication or work for yourself. Take motor mount adapter plates as an example -people spend hundreds on a piece of plate with holes drilled in it, then when it doesn't line up correctly they buy different ones. My motor mount plates cost 2 hours of my labor and a piece of scrap plate. I put extra holes to make them adaptable (stock, 1 inch forward, 1 inch back). My wiring and computer - re-worked stock harness plus fuse/relay center $50.00. Basic re-programing on the computer cost $100.00. My fuel system (pump to intake) with new intank pump cost $50.00. 2010 Camaro TR6060 6 speed plus new flywheel LS7 clutch ect. cost $900.00 all done(I did have to take it apart and replace the mainshaft) C6 exhaust manifolds $40.00. C5 Batwing oil pan $60.00 (I have a truck pan I cut down that works just as well for just some labor). Drive shaft $150.00. I do have a considerable amount of time invested - but I enjoy doing this type of work, and no it is not all rigged together Bubba style. In a year or so I plan to upgrade the engine.

 

I am doing the frame assessment right now so an aftermarket isn't out of the question yet! It looks like it has had the body off before as I have found some of Bubba's work were it would be tough to go without the body off. Some of the welds make me think that the body mounts were replaced but I couldn't believe it when I took it off this time... Only TWO of the eight mounts actually had a bolt through it!!!

I have looked for a coilover package for the 1980 and haven't found an aftermarket package. I also found some interesting opinions stating that a composite rear spring might have advantages over rear coils. Anyone care to weigh in on these points?

The honest truth is that I want the smoothest ride (street car, won't see the track), the quietest interior (I just put an X-pipe and Magnas on my other car - still too noisy), and the most power to be had within reason. I am looking for a quiet car with power to offset the badass but not always appealing sound of the 383 with headers as a DD.

The budget is a concern only in the fact that I haven't done a restoration in this depth before. I don't want to buy a bunch of parts that don't fit or work well together. I am budgeting about $20K and 2 years on this project.

Thanks for all the good advice!

 

Well above I did say (so far)
Here is new GEN V LT1 engine. Looks like a lot will change.
http://www.corvetteonline.com/news/b...-block-reveal/

 

Holy crap! Now that is awesome. I guess I better get a gen III/IV block in there so I can talk about how good things used to be so simple when the LS1 was top of the line

Why in the hell did they name it the LT1? Really? There has to be a reason they couldn't go with another code?!?