When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, so I recently finished my 383 build which should dyno out somewhere between 450-475hp and torque around the same range. I ordered a bunch of misc parts to finish things up, including clutch and flywheel. I ended up going with a Ram Powergrip Clutch, p/n RAM-98764and a RAM Billet Steel Flywheel, p/n RAM-1501.
When I received the package, the flywheel seemed rather heavy as compared to the old GM flywheel that was originally on the motor. I then grabbed our scale, weighed myself and then weighed again holding the flywheel. Doing the math, I came up with 37.4lbs for the flywheel. The new flywheel is stated to be 33lbs, so I thought this was odd. Not having a better way to weigh the flywheel on its own, I took the flywheel to our local FedEx location and weighed it on their scale. Their scale weighed it in at 33.5lbs.
When holding the old GM scale on our home scale, I came up with 32.8lbs, but considering the difference of the weight with the RAM flywheel on my scale vs. the FedEx scale, I figure the 32.8lbs is incorrect. Unfortunately, I did not bring the old GM flywheel to FedEx to be weighed also. When holding both the GM and RAM flywheel, there is definitely a difference in weight with the RAM feeling much heavier.
Anyway, the long and short of what my question is, is do you all think the new RAM flywheel that I just purchased at 33.5lbs is too heavy?
My plans for the car are weekend driver, car shows, occasional flogging, and maybe some drag strip time a few times a year.
I realized I should have asked this question before I purchased the flywheel, but its obviously a little late for that!
I ran a 14.5 lb flywheel on my 500 HP 383 and loved it. I would never go back to a heavy flywheel again. Your motor makes plenty of torque to get it moving. It revs so much quicker with a light flywheel. My LS3 in my car is a 15 pound flywheel now.
Of more serious concern than the small difference in weight is whether or not the purchased flywheel has a balance weight on it, or is neutral. I know zilch about a 383, but would assume that the rotating assembly is internally balanced, and requires a neutral flywheel. If externally balanced, it requires a weighted flywheel and harmonic balancer.
Irregardless of which way it is, put the wrong flywheel on it balance -wise, and it will pound the main bearings out of it in short order.
The rotating assembly is internally balanced. The flywheel is also internally (or "0") balanced.
What ratio is your rear end? What transmission is being used? What do you want to do with the Vette when your done? Need to answer these questions to get a good answer. If you ever want to try AutoX racing, go for a lightweight flywheel.
What ratio is your rear end? What transmission is being used? What do you want to do with the Vette when your done? Need to answer these questions to get a good answer. If you ever want to try AutoX racing, go for a lightweight flywheel.
4:11 gears, Tremec TKO-600 5-spd. See original post for what I want to do with it. Probably won't be doing any autocross...Thanks!
SHort answer is the lighter flywheel will let the engine rev really quick since the mass is low, but will make getting the car rolling a little more difficult. Heavy 'wheel, lots of mass slower to rev, but easier to get rolling.
I'm talking about the factory 30 + pounds compared to a 12 pounder..And I'm running a 12..
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
The better driver you are, or see yourself becoming, the more I'd suggest going with a lighter flywheel, as you will definitely notice the difference when attempting to match revs when shifting, up or down. Besides, the more you tend to abuse your car and/or more torque you have on hand, the more likely you'll break things with a heavy one (BTDT^). And, don't think you have to be tracking to appreciate the benefits of a lighter flywheel.
At the end of the day, if your having doubts about it (and you should), I wouldn't use that thing just because you own it. It should sell in short order to someone out there wants it (or believes they do).
if it has a dual plane with a full divider and 4 holer, i'd use a 15 flywheel.
anything else will have less torque and will tend to stall more easily, so u may want to try the 1 u have.
i have a 22 in my 355. works great! even with a 2.20 1st gear.
With 4.11, TKO and 383 I would positively go with a #15. You have plenty of torque and gearing to get you off the line and easier to match RPM in street driving. Balance the flywheel and PP together and mark and keep the bolt up the same before installing. Both may be 0 balanced but it is always + or -.
I've got a Ram 2501 ali flywheel on my lightened and balanced 355, it's 18 lbs, the engine revs up like a lunatic and the car is damn fast, I wouldn't go back to a heavier flywheel http://www.jegs.com/i/Ram-Clutches/798/2501/10002/-1
Oh, that's with 3.55 gears, TKO 600 RR Tremec ( 2.87 1st) and the Edelbrock performer RPM package
It's hilarious jumping in my van after going out in the in vette, it's like WTF is wrong with this thing!
Last edited by aaroncorvette; Oct 29, 2012 at 05:11 PM.