building a strong 383
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 11
From: Boiling Springs
building a strong 383
so I've been slowly working on my 355 is year and i'm starting to come to the conclusion that it needs more bite to its bark. the motor has been running ok but things keep need adjusted and replaced so i think now is a better time than ever to just get the motor completely rebuilt with some good parts and bring it back into its younger years. I'm really interested into just turning it into a stroker and trying to get a good amount of power out of it, i figure while its out i'm going to rebuild the th400 or just swap it in a manual. Since this year i'm going to be moving for a different job for the winter, i figure i should have enough to put roughly 3k into parts. the machine work, if i turns out that i need some, I have some friends that could probably help me out (I use to work for a CAT machine shop). my question is, what is a good kit, if any, that i can use for the lower end? for the top end i'm going to go with some dart heads, a holley 670, and a edalbrok performer. I wouldn't mind hearing from others who have built one and what you guys have gone with and why, or if i should just not even bother.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Here's a link to an article that pretty much tells you everything you would ever want to know about the 383 chevy:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...y/viewall.html
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...y/viewall.html
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Ive used Scat CAT and RPM cranks all with no issues
Same as anything else double check everything get good machine work
You wont build another 350 after stroking one I can promise you that.
Same as anything else double check everything get good machine work
You wont build another 350 after stroking one I can promise you that.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 11
From: Boiling Springs
my other question is, i plan to supercharge it down the road. I would guess i would have to run forged crank and pistons, right? or can i be fine with just using some quality cast parts?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 7
From: Fort Ripley Minnesota
I'm in the process of building a 383 for my 90 Vett, IMO you need to build it right the first time ie forged internals so that you have no worries about RPM's and the future super charger (Less CR for a charged system).
3 G's of cash will get you started but no where close to completion. I have over 3 grand in my short block alone and I didn't cut any corners. It can be done much cheaper i'm sure, but at some point you may wish you did it correctly the first time.
3 G's of cash will get you started but no where close to completion. I have over 3 grand in my short block alone and I didn't cut any corners. It can be done much cheaper i'm sure, but at some point you may wish you did it correctly the first time.
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX USA
I just rebuilt the Original L98 in my 86 to a 383 using a Eagle rotating assembly kit I got off of summit. Comes complete with crank, rods, bearings pistons, Wrist pins with locks and rings, flexplate and harmonic balancer. The balancer is an 8" balancer which you will have to swap out to an external balanced 6" one to use the factory water pump and serpentine drive kit. I think it was around $800 plus another $100 for the correct externally balanced harmonic balancer . I have been more than happy with the results. It's not a forged crank or pistons just FYI but i also have no intention of putting forced induction on this motor or spraying it. Kit comes fully balanced so there is another thing you wont have to spend money on at the machine shop.
You will have to have the block notched for rod clearance at the bottom of the bores and of course bored out to .030 over.
Some folks have claimed that the rods can hit the camshaft but that wasnt and issue for me and i'm running a rather large camshaft (.592 lift howards retro roller) with zero clearance issues.
I frequently run this motor up to 6200 rpm redline (road course racing) with zero issues. All of the bearings and ring clearances were on the money perfect right out of the box.
You will have to have the block notched for rod clearance at the bottom of the bores and of course bored out to .030 over.
Some folks have claimed that the rods can hit the camshaft but that wasnt and issue for me and i'm running a rather large camshaft (.592 lift howards retro roller) with zero clearance issues.
I frequently run this motor up to 6200 rpm redline (road course racing) with zero issues. All of the bearings and ring clearances were on the money perfect right out of the box.