I am a first time Corvette owner and newbie to this forum. I am very impressed by the depth and breadth of knowledge by members here! I have been searching the C3 threads and have found many many pearls of wisdom that has greatly assisted me with restoring my recently acquired 1982 Collector Edition. I am stumped though on a few problems that I could use some assistance with.

I am replacing the weatherstripping on the driver's side door. I had a very frustrating evening yesterday trying to adjust the power window so that it seals correctly. The top of the window nearest to the windshield vertical post has a small gap that I cannot seem to fix without causing the rear vertical edge of the window to hit the rear upright. I think the problem may be my t-top weatherstripping, which I plan to replace. Anyway, this involved so much turning on the ignition on/off and running the power windows that I ran down the battery. After I charged it up, I started the car and it ran really rough, idle was very low and it sounded like it was not firing on all cylinders, and the "check engine light" was on. I have the factory shop manual and tried to perform diagnostics using the plug under the ashtray. I connected a jumper wire to the A and B terminals, the check engine light flashed code "12", made a "click noise" then went out. The next time I started the Corvette, I noticed that none of the warning lights came on that are temporarily come on when you start the car (seat belt light, check engine light, battery light). I checked the fuse panel and the instrument lights and gauge fuses were blown. Looking down at the diagostic plug, there are two rows of connector spaces. The bottom row is full of brass connectors and the top row only has one space (at the far right end) with a brass connector, the other spaces are empty. Looking at the manual, the top row connector (at the far right) is for testing the fuel pump. So then I considered the A/B terminals for flashing the codes to be the first and second connectors in the bottom row, starting at the left. Did I do this right and if so, why did the fuses blow?

My second problem is the TPS sensor. Last month, I had to reset the TPS after removing it to change my valve cover gasket. I followed the steps in the manual to readjust it, however, the lowest voltage I could adjust to was around 1 volt and couldn't get it any lower (I believe it had to be set to around 0.5 volts, can't remember exact number). The TPS would not rotate down any lower because it hits the top of the valve cover. Is this typical or do I have a faulty TPS? It appears that the rough running engine and associated "check engine" light from last night was due to the TPS being out of adjustment. I didn't bother using my volt meter knowing the sensor voltage could not be set below 1 volt, so I readjusted the TPS with the engine running until it ran smooth again and the check engine light went out. It still idles a little high though (around 900-1000 RPM).

Sorry for the long thread. Any help or advice on these issues would be greatly appeciated!! Cheers! Wesley

 

bump!

 

You may have had the volt meter on the wrong setting but a high idle from a CFI system is common after its been sitting or messed with. Run the car and run it good and the idle will settle.

The window trim should all be replaced at the same time and everything is adjustable a little Try and get the window close to the front a piller and t top and the back molding can be moved out a little.

Then go through the list of the 3 or 4 must do's on a 82 C3

 

Thanks Hugie82, I appreciate the info!

About the list of must do's, where do I find it? Sounds like good stuff!

Cheers!