Shark Bar or Roll Cage?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
Shark Bar or Roll Cage?
I know shark Bars have been discussed to death but hopefully this is a bit different?
I want to run 5pt harness with my C5 seats in my '69.
I know the Shark Bar does this for about $500...
What I don't know is I might eventually want to run some drag/auto X/road races and don't know the rules for track stuff. Does track racing require a roll cage?
I just don't want to spend so much on a shark bar to eventually need something stronger. I know it would be a LOT more work building my own roll cage but I'd rather do it now instead of later.
on a side note. I noticed my C5 seats already have the area in the middle for the belts to go through that most had to cut the seats?
I want to run 5pt harness with my C5 seats in my '69.
I know the Shark Bar does this for about $500...
What I don't know is I might eventually want to run some drag/auto X/road races and don't know the rules for track stuff. Does track racing require a roll cage?
I just don't want to spend so much on a shark bar to eventually need something stronger. I know it would be a LOT more work building my own roll cage but I'd rather do it now instead of later.
on a side note. I noticed my C5 seats already have the area in the middle for the belts to go through that most had to cut the seats?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 23
From: Prescott AZ
I'm not an expert, but know that at the drag strip, it depends on your time/speed as to weather you need a roll bar or not. Also on the road race track, it depends if you are racing or just doing a track day. Even on track days now, some tracks are requiring a roll bar if it is a convertible. I think it has a lot to do with what class you are running. I know others are much more knowledgeable and hopefully will chime in with specifics for you.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
I'm not an expert, but know that at the drag strip, it depends on your time/speed as to weather you need a roll bar or not. Also on the road race track, it depends if you are racing or just doing a track day. Even on track days now, some tracks are requiring a roll bar if it is a convertible. I think it has a lot to do with what class you are running. I know others are much more knowledgeable and hopefully will chime in with specifics for you.
Seems like I need to look up some local tracks/strips and see what their rules are. More than likely unless I'm in an actual racing event or super fast at the strip I won't need a full roll cage.
I just wonder how much stiffer a frame mounted cage would be over the sub frame Shark bar...
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
The Shark Bar definitely stiffened up the chassis on my convertible. The roll cage would be even better. A lot also depends on the track and their rules. If I were to do it over again I would do at least a 4 point roll bar.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
I saw someone on this side modified this Jegs frame to make work...although he said it took a ton of work.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/941003K/10002/-1
I think after making my own side pipes for my LS1 i'm in the mood for modifying tube frames...
Especially since the price of the shark bar is so crazy for what it is...
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
My cage is not the best in my 79. But it is over kill with .134 wall DOM 1 3/4. Very strong and functional!
I have pictures some where from a beautiful cage from someone here on the forum.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/gkull/
I have pictures some where from a beautiful cage from someone here on the forum.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/gkull/
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
But I think you're right. I can always start off with a simple 4pt or even a 2pt and hiem joints to the seat belt like the shark bar. And continue on as I see fit.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,721
Likes: 108
From: Canada
I have the hoops vers on my vert. As Gordon says it really stiffens up the frame BUT it is not a proper cage for track use. I bought mine to stiffen up the ride, make my wife happy by installing a 5 pt harness (she didn't feel safe with the stock belts) and it looks great on our vert. I did not want a full roll bar setup to climb over.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
You bolt/weld yours to the frame? I'm curious for those that did bolt to frame how they closed the holes they had to cut open.
But I think you're right. I can always start off with a simple 4pt or even a 2pt and hiem joints to the seat belt like the shark bar. And continue on as I see fit.
But I think you're right. I can always start off with a simple 4pt or even a 2pt and hiem joints to the seat belt like the shark bar. And continue on as I see fit.
to put nuts is kind of easy. Drill a hole larger than the nut (5/8" or so) weld the nut to a washer, then the washer to the frame (obviously with the nut to the inside of the frame)
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
welded. It could have been bolted; the "feet" that I put on the bar were to avoid the fuel lines and brake lines that run down the top of the frame. If you wanted to bolt instead, you'd simply put flat plates on the side and run bolts into the frame; or run bolts up into the rollbar tube (with appropriate welded nuts behind either scenario). I didn't because it's easy enough to knock the welds off from the tire side and I plan on at least a door brace.
to put nuts is kind of easy. Drill a hole larger than the nut (5/8" or so) weld the nut to a washer, then the washer to the frame (obviously with the nut to the inside of the frame)
to put nuts is kind of easy. Drill a hole larger than the nut (5/8" or so) weld the nut to a washer, then the washer to the frame (obviously with the nut to the inside of the frame)
from one thread I saw the guy just drilled/tapped 4 holes per post into the frame.
How was that tube bender? I know when I was doing exhaust work most said I couldn't use a bender as it would kink the tubing. But that was thin stuff... any concern with kinking roll bar tubing?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
I didn't fill the hole, I cut close; and there's carpet over the top. Should it prove problematic (doubtful), I'll simply use metal-backed tape (like sound deadener tape) to fill any gaps. I didn't bore through on the back, but I may change that before it's completely done. In any case, most carpet backing does a pretty good job of sealing..... normally speaking, it's the firewall which lets in the bad smells.
You have be careful with the bender. Eastwood says "90* bends possible" what they don't tell you is 90* bends possible when done in two bends. Push the bender too hard on DOM tubing (more than 50*) and it'll snap the jack in half like a twig
I didn't have any trouble with kinking, but that's because I used a tube bender that draws the material around the mandrel.
I have a Harbor freight pipe bender - it'll kink tube just by looking at it.... If you don't want the higher cost of a tube bender, using the dies from a harbor freight bender as a die to heat and pull the DOM tubing around would be a good second best.
In many ways, it's harder to bend light gauge pipe than DOM tubing.
You have be careful with the bender. Eastwood says "90* bends possible" what they don't tell you is 90* bends possible when done in two bends. Push the bender too hard on DOM tubing (more than 50*) and it'll snap the jack in half like a twig
I didn't have any trouble with kinking, but that's because I used a tube bender that draws the material around the mandrel.
I have a Harbor freight pipe bender - it'll kink tube just by looking at it.... If you don't want the higher cost of a tube bender, using the dies from a harbor freight bender as a die to heat and pull the DOM tubing around would be a good second best.
In many ways, it's harder to bend light gauge pipe than DOM tubing.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 698
Likes: 8
From: Stockholm Sweden
If not planning to rebiuld your car to strictly stock specification i would definetly recomend a rollbar. 
I installed a rollbar in my 1972 convertible last winter and it realy stiffens the frame up.
It also adds a lot of confidence for me when driving, knowing im safe and well tied down with a good 5pt harness.
The prebent rollbar and loose piping for supports ended up at about 250usd.
The installation and welding i did myself.
Heres a link to my rollbar thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...nvertible.html
//Ricky.
I installed a rollbar in my 1972 convertible last winter and it realy stiffens the frame up.
It also adds a lot of confidence for me when driving, knowing im safe and well tied down with a good 5pt harness.
The prebent rollbar and loose piping for supports ended up at about 250usd.
The installation and welding i did myself.
Heres a link to my rollbar thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...nvertible.html
//Ricky.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
Instead of investing in a tubing bender and a welder find a guy who builds stock cars, he should be able to fix you up for a lot less than you would think, at your lever I would think all you would need is a main hoop with a cross brace, two down bars to the rear frame rails and a single tube from the center of the main hoop to the frame rail by the passengers foot well. you might also do a search for Autopower they used to build a pretty nice Corvette roll bar.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
Instead of investing in a tubing bender and a welder find a guy who builds stock cars, he should be able to fix you up for a lot less than you would think, at your lever I would think all you would need is a main hoop with a cross brace, two down bars to the rear frame rails and a single tube from the center of the main hoop to the frame rail by the passengers foot well. you might also do a search for Autopower they used to build a pretty nice Corvette roll bar.
I have a welder so it would just be the bender. I'm thinking if I get the Jegs kit and a bender I can make whatever I want... Even if it's just a simple loop like the Shark Bar that goes to the frame for cheaper than what the shark bar would have cost.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
If not planning to rebiuld your car to strictly stock specification i would definetly recomend a rollbar.
I installed a rollbar in my 1972 convertible last winter and it realy stiffens the frame up.
It also adds a lot of confidence for me when driving, knowing im safe and well tied down with a good 5pt harness.
The prebent rollbar and loose piping for supports ended up at about 250usd.
The installation and welding i did myself.
Heres a link to my rollbar thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...nvertible.html
//Ricky.
I installed a rollbar in my 1972 convertible last winter and it realy stiffens the frame up.
It also adds a lot of confidence for me when driving, knowing im safe and well tied down with a good 5pt harness.
The prebent rollbar and loose piping for supports ended up at about 250usd.
The installation and welding i did myself.
Heres a link to my rollbar thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...nvertible.html
//Ricky.
So how did you fill the gaps made from cutting the body to get the bars through?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
