I just purchased a weatherstrip kit from Willcox for my 76 with a tube of adhesive. Are there certain spots I should (or should not) use the adhesive? Any tricks or hints I should know before I start?

 

My only tip is to pay attention to the metal lips on various spots. The weather strip should fit very well on the lip and not have extra length left over. Also make sure you align the screw holes on the a-pillar window strip.

 

Before you start, order the assembly instruction manual (AIM) and take a look at the diagrams showing the factory installation of the weatherstripping.

Weatherstrip adhesive was used on virtually 100% of the length of the individual pieces.

Some pieces also have screws and/or pop rivets.

 

Follow the directions on the glue. Thin coat on both rubber and the clean car surface. Let dry for the recommended time. Then apply another thin coat to the rubber and install. Once the two make contact, they are near impossible to separate without messing up the rubber. Do not stretch the rubber when putting it on the car channel...just lay it down and the length will be right. I like the black...the yellow shows on the edges. Lacquer thinner is a good cleanup for the glue. If it gets on your hands, well, you will see what I mean. Do not shut the doors until the glue has a chance to fully set up...you do not want anything sticking to the closed door.

Take your time, extra set of hands(wife) to hold the end of the weatherstrip while you lay down the other end will really help. Door will be very tight and over next few months will find its position on the new weatherstrip and slowly be easier to close. The door should be a nice snug fit with no rattle.

 

I used too much and needed an extra tube. Your mileage may vary.

 

I have read on here that applying a thin coat on the area of interest and letting it dry and then re-applying when you are ready to install is key to good results.

 

Thanks. I ordered new hardware, so I will make sure I know where it all fits before I glue.

Is one tube enough to pre-coat and glue?

It sounds like getting all the old adhesive off is very important. Should I use lacquer thinner to remove it? Won't that also take the paint off the car?

 

Ok.. my two cents worth.

All the weatherstrips will have mold release on them. Wipe them down with some thinner before installing.

Put a thin film of the glue on the mating area of the weatherstrip and allow it to dry. Put a thin film on the area where it is to be glued and allow it to dry. (like rubber cement). The put a final thin bead on the area to be glued to and install.

Pillar weatherstrips are supposed to be glued to the retainer… But the retainer has a thin film of foam between it and the windshield molding back side. Make sure you do not glue this. The pillar weatherstrip is adjustable. If you glue the retainer you’ll loose this adjustment and it is critical.

The roof panel (T-top) weatherstrip… The area over your head.. this is the very last part that is glued. There are four screws and like the pillar weatherstrip it is adjustable. So you glue it all the way around the top (where the pins are) and leave it alone until after it is adjusted. Once adjusted, take a piece of masking take to make the exact spot it belongs in... then glue it.

Make sure you have the pillar weatherstrip to the top of the chrome corner molding. There is 1 screw that screws into the corner molding and use this as a guide.

Hope you got the pillar molding clips because this is the time to change them.

The pillar retainer…. I is imperative that it not rock. Inspect it closely because people like to pull on this when they think they have all the screws out and when they do this it creates a pull in the molding that will cause rocking. If you have the old pillar weatherstrip out.. and cleaned, make sure that it will sit perfectly flat on the back side of the windshield molding. If it rocks it will cause fitment issues when the door glass hits it.

We always re-adjust the door glass after new weatherstrips are installed and we also check for play in the door hinge pins and bushings. To me.. There is no better way to have a successful installation. So if the door pins and bushings are bad this is the time to fix that too. I think I have a write up on how to change the pins and bushings on our site.

If I think of anything else later I’ll edit this.

 

I wiped everything down with alcohol when I did the weatherstripping on my 69. Won't hurt the paint, and takes some scrubbing to get the old glue off, but worked pretty well. And it's pretty cheap at the big box home improvement stores. I got a gallon- but I use it for lots of other things too.

 

Do a dry run, tape the weather strips with masking tape and end screws and be sure the rubber length is correct, and that the door will close properly. I had to return rubber that was too hard and not formed correctly, the door would not close on the dry run. The new replacements from a different company fit perfectly.