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I remember Pedro and some others had a fit problem with their replacement springs and so do I. The width of the replacement spring is just wider then the distance between the bolts,plus the steel plate doesn't fit flat against the spring. The original spring had the liner edges trimed away where the bolts go past it to the cover. I did the same with the new spring and it still is tight enough to fowl the bolts going into the cover. I can mill the leafs enough to allow clearance between them and the bolts but don't recall what you guys did?
Thanks,
Gary
I can mill the leafs enough to allow clearance between them and the bolts
Hi Gary,
That's exactly what I did, after I tried ignorance and brute force and destroyed a couple of bolts. :D I trimmed the liners and made 2 small grooves on the leaves, so that the bolt would fit.
I got slightly longer bolts. I check them about once a year, and still have the old ones just in case. I have a feeling the linings between the springs are going to compress.
Also make sure the bolt which goes through the spring leafs (if your replacement is like that) is not too tall and completely fits up inside the little machined hole in the rear diff for it. I know the replacement bolts GM sells for the springs these days is too tall and from what I've read it will most likely break off the ears of the diff when you go to tighten it down. :) ~Juliet
Thanks Juliet,
I have the spring in and torqued to 50 ft/lbs now and will retorque to 70 when the car is down on the ground. The replacement spring was not a good fit at all. I had to grind into the leafs where the bolts go for it to fit in between the bolts. Then jacking the ends up almost made the car jump off the supports. I ended up using a bar in between the strut rod and spring end to pry it up without moving the rest of the car. The car actually jumped over 4" :eek: I have another spring and HD cover so I'll measure it tomorrow to see if the bolt bottoms out. It didn't seem to,in fact the center was flat and the ends of the top leaf were curling away. So far a lot of the replacement parts I bought are not machined to fit as a direct bolt in. I had to machine,grind and file a lot of these "replacement parts " so far.
I'll see how th espring and suspension loks after I get it on the ground and move it around a bit. Hopefully it will align itself with the weight of the car on it.
Gary
I had the same problem with the spring i bought fron volenteer i had to grind the edge of the spring to make it fit right didn't need to take off much just enouph.
I got a replacement from http://eatonsprings.com/ and it fit just fine - except for having to thread the bolts in without the new lockwashers until I got the spring compressed a bit. Put them back in one-by-one and all is well with the world.
Hmmm, I bought my 9 leaf from ZIP a couple months ago and it fit right in. The edges of the cushions were already trimmed and I had no problem installing it, except for lining up the center spring bolt into the hole in the diff. Their bolt kit did come with 4 same length bolts however, whereas my old bolts had two shorter ones. I measured the depth of the fwd holes and all seemed ok so I installed the longer ones. Probably should re-check/torque them again though. :cheers:
Re: Replacement 9 leaf steel spring fit (MasterDave)
Well the springs I have are from Corvette Central. I bought them about 2 years ago and put them away until now. I bet the other one is the same as the one I just fought with. :mad
I like the leverage method better then using a jack under the spring end. The car didn't move at all with the bar and didn't bother the strut rod either.
Gary