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I couldn't get a hard brake pedal and had read where others had used pressure bleeding and it worked great.Well I used a pressure bleeder from work and I was able to get a hard pedal.I had to pressure bleed twice but it finally worked.Anyway I thought about how this bleeder works and realized how cheap it would be for anyone to make their own.Most auto parts stores have an air gun that has a syphon hose coming off the bottom.All you need is rubber hose to put on the end of the syphon hose that will fit snug over a caliper bleeder and attach a hose to spray end of gun and run that to a empty gallon jug.This is basically what the pressure bleeder from work is doing but alot more expensive.As the air blows thru gun it draws fluid from the suction hose which is attached to the bleeder screw.The syphon gun is cheap at auto store.
I could not believe how many bottles of brake fluid I ran thru my vette and never could get a hard pedal but the syphon bleeder sure worked.
btw my 81 is still for sale at $5500 if anyone interested.
you are right a pressure bleeder just works by force bleed rather than suction bleed.the pressure bleeder might work faster but the suction bleed is same principle but in reverse.And this is still way to make a bleeder really cheap that works.Instead of having to make a cap to fit master cylinder this suction bleeder is super easy to make and it works well.The bleeder I brought from work works both ways.Either can use it with the cap for master cyl or use it was suction bleeder which is how I used it.I didnt think the cap that is with it would be a tight seal on master cyl so I used the suction method of the tool.
I do know that these C-3 vette brakes can be a reaL pita and all because it can be so hard to get the air out of system.
Anyway thought many could benifit from this post and enjoy driving their vette again with good anchors.
wave on. \ ////
One possible problem with suction bleeding is that it can pull air INTO your brake system past the caliper seals. I think if I were to use this method, I would setthe air pressure from the compressor to as low as it would go while still getting some vacuum draw and plan on leaving it connected to each port at least 30 minutes.
A ture pressure bleeder is a much better way to go.
I've had NO luck with suction bleeding because I can't get it to stop sucking air past the threads of the bleeders. I just bled my brakes with the 3/4 PVC pipe method Gary Dion wrote about in the tech tips section. Looks stupid, works GREAT, and you don't have to bug the wife or children to pump your brakes for you.
About the homemade pressure bleeder--wouldn't it just be simpler and cheaper to get a spare master cylinder lid and mount the fitting in that? It would fit perfectly on there and you could just snap on the bails and the gasket would do all the sealing. Or am I missing something?
The main problem with this method (gravity bleeding) is an aging mind.
I tried it twice before I went to the PVC pipe method, and both times, at some point in the LONG time it takes to gravity bleed, I got distracted and forgot to keep the danged master cylinder filled and it drained dry & I had to start again. :cry
Gravity bleeding's fine unless you're easily distracted like me. :D
Please somebody, help me clear the carbon off my thinker. I have tried gravity bleeding and suction, not pressure. Will try that next. (I like the idea of using an extra cover.)
From a theoretical standpoint, wouldn't pressure or suction simply make the job faster? What is the mechanism there that convinces those nasty air bubbles to come out from hiding?
I can think of lots of other things to do rather than bleeding these brakes. Like DRIVING. Stevo
Well, I'm guessing with pressure bleeding, the air moves out better because it compresses while the brake fluid doesn't.
One thing you want to be sure to do is to tap on the calipers as you bleed with a wrench or small hammer to dislodge bubbles that are sticking to the inside of the caliper. I always do, and I always get extra bubbles coming out when I tap.
I think the extra lid idea is a dam good one! Then, use a Shrader or Presta valve and a bicycle pump. Tiny air bubbles will cling to about any thing and can be smaller than a pin head ( not a :jester ). When they touch each other, bigger bubbles. Shake the old fluid and watch. Aggitation of the fluid is one reason bleeding can be a pain. What ever method used that gives a hard brake is fine with me, but I prefer pressure.
I was told a valuable trick by an old timer, he's been racing his C2 for years and years...
He said to be VERY carefull no to disturb the rotors after bleeding. He says if you shake the rotors the seals will pump air and you'll get a soft pedal.
He is convinced that just putting the wheel on can cause the caliper to suck in air if the rotor moves!!!!
I think the extra lid idea is a dam good one! Then, use a Shrader or Presta valve and a bicycle pump. Tiny air bubbles will cling to about any thing and can be smaller than a pin head ( not a :jester ). When they touch each other, bigger bubbles. Shake the old fluid and watch. Aggitation of the fluid is one reason bleeding can be a pain. What ever method used that gives a hard brake is fine with me, but I prefer pressure.
All right, now I'm gettin' inspired. I got an extra lid, I got a schrader valve, I got a bicycle pump. Car craft and their $15, lots of hassle & trips to the store, gotta have a compressor gadget! HA!
I figure I'd try making one of those. I have a piece of 4x7 1/2" steel to use and ordered a piece of Butyl Rubber from McMaster-Carr today for $5.00 +shipping. Steve did you try this yet?
Gary
I figure I'd try making one of those. I have a piece of 4x7 1/2" steel to use and ordered a piece of Butyl Rubber from McMaster-Carr today for $5.00 +shipping. Steve did you try this yet?
Gary