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A "buba" fix to tighten up the clutch gear bearing bore. The bearing has evidently failed at one time or the other and turned in the bore enlarging the bore to the point where the input bearing wouldn't seat properly. The penning was an attempt to "shrink a portion of the bore. Good idea to find another case, chances are the counter shaft bores are worn too.
If you don't care about numbers matching, get an Autogear "Super Case". Many of the used cases out there are junk anyway, as they will leak oil around the countershaft pin in the front of the case. Muncies are famous for this. The super case solves this forever by being made thicker in that area, allowing for the installation of a soft welch type plug (included) in front of the countershaft pin. The case also has a drain plug installed, and they offer a heavy duty front bearing and iron midplate as well. All of the stock Muncie parts work with the super case. Check out www.autogear.net
If you don't care about numbers matching, get an Autogear "Super Case". Many of the used cases out there are junk anyway, as they will leak oil around the countershaft pin in the front of the case. Muncies are famous for this. The super case solves this forever by being made thicker in that area, allowing for the installation of a soft welch type plug (included) in front of the countershaft pin. The case also has a drain plug installed, and they offer a heavy duty front bearing and iron midplate as well. All of the stock Muncie parts work with the super case. Check out www.autogear.net
I don't mean to hijack this thread and I can start a new one if I need to.
Rick, you mentioned "they will leak oil around the countershaft pin in the front of the case".
My m-20 leaks oil from the front of the case, but only when the car is in reverse and moving. No other time does it leak. Could my problem be the one you're speaking of?
If you don't care about numbers matching, get an Autogear "Super Case". Many of the used cases out there are junk anyway, as they will leak oil around the countershaft pin in the front of the case. Muncies are famous for this. The super case solves this forever by being made thicker in that area, allowing for the installation of a soft welch type plug (included) in front of the countershaft pin. The case also has a drain plug installed, and they offer a heavy duty front bearing and iron midplate as well. All of the stock Muncie parts work with the super case. Check out www.autogear.net
I was thinking of a "Super Case" before the rebuild started and this kinda made up my mind And speaking of the Super Case..is there a big advantage to changing to a Autogear tail shaft housing? And a steel mid plate is also on the menu.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
If you're doing a super case, no more than the HD mid-plate costs I'd go ahead and do that too. And, if any of your sliders need replaced, get a set of the torque-lock type.
I would be interested in hearing a response to this. Might start a new thread.
Originally Posted by bashcraft
I don't mean to hijack this thread and I can start a new one if I need to.
Rick, you mentioned "they will leak oil around the countershaft pin in the front of the case".
My m-20 leaks oil from the front of the case, but only when the car is in reverse and moving. No other time does it leak. Could my problem be the one you're speaking of?
A coupla things come to mind, a missing main shaft bearing deflector or a damaged main shaft bearing nut. If an old one is reused and buggered up it will cause the leak. A worn front bearing retainer.
I was thinking of a "Super Case" before the rebuild started and this kinda made up my mind And speaking of the Super Case..is there a big advantage to changing to a Autogear tail shaft housing? And a steel mid plate is also on the menu.
I have been away for awhile. I purchased a restored 1936 Chrysler 5 window coupe. ( all stock). I now have a 720hp car and a 100 HP car. Trying to broaden my horizons, and all of that rubbish, LOL.
I am not sure about the tail housing. I built a Muncie using the Super Case, and I also incorporated their iron midplate because of the nominal extra cost, and the fact that many of the loads are against this plate as described on their web site.
I don't mean to hijack this thread and I can start a new one if I need to.
Rick, you mentioned "they will leak oil around the countershaft pin in the front of the case".
My m-20 leaks oil from the front of the case, but only when the car is in reverse and moving. No other time does it leak. Could my problem be the one you're speaking of?
Possible, and the items mentioned by bpassmore in his post are certainly valid. If the leak is bad enough that it is worth pulling the trans for, simply inspect the mounting face immediately upon removal. Gear oil will be seen actually coming out around the countershaft pin. If not, check the other items mentioned.
All members interested in this subject should do a google search for "Muncie Transmission Leaks." You will be shocked at the amount of info that comes up on this subject. It is a very common problem with Muncies, and it is why Autogear invested the resources to solve the problem. You should not waste money on a used Muncie case unless you can accurately determine that the countershaft to case fit is correct, It must be a tight pressed -in fit. Disclaimer - I have no association with Autogear whatever, except for being a satisfied customer.
Last edited by Rick Rowland; Dec 11, 2012 at 11:23 PM.
Many times the main case leaks from the countershaft bore are because at some time or another the countershaft has been forced out the front of the case during disassembly.
Seems as if the lube would slosh against the case any time he hit the brakes too.
But since nothing in the front of the trans turns backwards in reverse, I'm at a loss why it would only lrak in reverse. Any theories out there?
Could it be leaking from the main shaft and oil "pooling" inside the bell housing..and when you backup it sloshes forward out of the bellhousing. When I removed mine the bellhousing had oil streek,and a stain where oil looks to sat for awhile.
A coupla things come to mind, a missing main shaft bearing deflector or a damaged main shaft bearing nut. If an old one is reused and buggered up it will cause the leak. A worn front bearing retainer.
Case in the photo is JUNK! Get another. I have several in my spares pile if you want original otherwise go Auto Gear.
Its been my experience that there are STUPID people out there who are capable of beating the countershaft out the front of the main case on a rebuild. This will cause leakage in the case. Auto gear super case has a seal on the countershaft. No leaks. I use weatherstrip adhesive in my stock rebuilds on the countershaft. Before driving it all the way home coat ID of bore at the front with WS adhesive. Be sure the countershaft is properly rotated before WS adhesive has set up by installing mid plate before WS adhesive has set up. DONE!
Case in the photo is JUNK! Get another. I have several in my spares pile if you want original otherwise go Auto Gear.
Its been my experience that there are STUPID people out there who are capable of beating the countershaft out the front of the main case on a rebuild. This will cause leakage in the case. Auto gear super case has a seal on the countershaft. No leaks. I use weatherstrip adhesive in my stock rebuilds on the countershaft. Before driving it all the way home coat ID of bore at the front with WS adhesive. Be sure the countershaft is properly rotated before WS adhesive has set up by installing mid plate before WS adhesive has set up. DONE!
There is no "seal on the countershaft" on an Autogear Supercase. The case is thicker on the front flange than an OEM case. This allows room for a soft Welch Plug ( like a small freeze plug) to be driven into the case in front of the countershaft. The plug is supplied with the new case. Of course the countershaft itself fits tight as well, because the case is new. A bead of sealant is put around the plug prior to installing it. You now have the double protection of the as new fit of the countershaft in the case , plus the plug.