Ok Guys, what is the easiest method in removing transmission from 69' bigblock C3. I purchased this car as is about half way into a restoration. the clutch peddle has no resistance on it. You can push it in with one finger. The car sat for about ten years and some people tells me the clutch may be stuck and would become unstuck when engine is started for first time. Everything was suppose to have been replaced ( clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing) but I am wondering if the right release bearing was used. Something is not right so I am planning on removing the transmission to find out. I know this is not easy because of the fixed cross member, so any tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for all of your help. You guys are the best, Charlie

 

You are sure the clutch linkage is hooked up?

 

yes, very sure and have tried adjustment all the in and out,Thanks for asking If so i guess that would explain it

 

Pull the distributor cap off so it won't hit the firewall. Remove the driveshaft and shifter then raise the rear of the trans enough to remove the rear mount. Support the engine with the trans just off the crossmember and remove the 4 bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Start pulling the trans back and roll it so it will go back in the tunnel.
When it gets clear of the bellhousing drop it down in the front and out. You may have to drop the engine down in the back to get the input shaft to clear the bellhousing- that's why the distributor cap comes off. I've heard that some will come out without droppping the engine, mine did not and the cap got cracked on the firewall.
A bottole jack and a block of wood under the oil pan works fine for me.

 

Taking the tranny out sucks.

1. I would remove the headpipes from the exhaust on at least one side [in my case I just cut out the exhaust and replaced it]

2. Factory shifter is bolted to the crossmember and needs to get out of the way...unbolt that puppy and get it out of the way

3. Obvious things like remove driveshaft, speedo cable, trans shift column unterlock.

4. Slide the trans back as far as you can, get it past the bellhousing, turn the front of the box so that the inoput shaft is facing the pass side of the car, and then dip it down and slide it out.

 

BTW...put some wood behind one of the heads to keep the motor from tipping back and wrecking the distributor

 

Just noticed Tim posted at about the same time

 

Thanks all of you very very much,this is just what I needed to know.I knew it would be a fairly big job and didn't know the trick with the distributor cap.I will do all of this and see how it works. Thanks again, Charlie

 

I'd suggest getting some help too. Trans is not really killer heavy, but it's heavy enough you'll wish you had help. Unless you have a lift and can stand up under the car.

 

An aluminum case Muncie trans weighs about 75 pounds. And believe them about the distributor. You could bend it if you are not careful.

 

Yea thats a good idea ,I have the car on a lift but thought I would get a couple of jacks to support the engine and the trans during removal. I will most likely just remove the distributor to be on the safe side. Thanks a lot guys for all your help. Wish you were here to help. Charlie

 

I read you need to rotate the trans for clearance to get it out. Not sure if I need to on a bw super t 10.

 

I have taken out 3 of these with my Corvettes on jackstands and still have my front teeth

All good advice above, the 4sp is heavy but you can wield it, I think it is good to drop the drive shaft (I just remove it), pull the 4sp back and roll it to the pass side 90 degrees (pretty sure it is a RH roll), clear the input shaft and drop it down. I put some cushions down to catch it in case I have a "hard landing".

When you reinstall, few things I learned here and from experience, when you install the new pilot bushing (solid bronze) make sure you do not mushroom the ID, otherwise you will get very good at pulling out the 4sp again, ha. So mike the ID or make a go/no go gauge for the pilot bushing. Also from here I learned to get the 4sp up in the hole, install 4 long (3/4" or whatever size the 4 trans bolts are) with the bolt heads cut off. So, you use the 4 long bolts with the heads cut off as pilot rods to hang the 4sp and guide it into place. Getting the last 1" in when the input shaft starts to engage the flywheel is usually a pain. My better half spouse pushes and releases the clutch pedal while I wiggle the 4sp into final position. Do not use the OEM bolts to tighten and close this gap. Then remove the pilot rods one by one and replace with the real OEM fastening bolts. I think using pilot rods helps to keep from having all of that front weight on the input shaft which is to be avoided and helps to hold and guide the 4sp straight in.

Hope this helps. Good luck and be careful.

 

Not sure if I asked this question, I'm sure the exhaust was in the way on my 68 with duals now my 79 has a "Y" pipe with the factory cat, will the manual trans clear the exhaust? Pulling the system would be a PITA and not ready to do the dual conversion just yet.