Crate Engine Specs?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Crate Engine Specs?
I know this has been beat to death but never found the answer using the search.
Decided to go with a 383 Stroker crate engine for my 78. I want an engine that produces good torque, I am mating up with a 2004R and 2800 RPM stall convertor. Want to run on pump gas.
Got a few good quotes less than $3K delivered to my door and need to keep no higher than that.
Whats the difference between a short block and a long block? Most quotes are around 400 HP.
Decided to go with a 383 Stroker crate engine for my 78. I want an engine that produces good torque, I am mating up with a 2004R and 2800 RPM stall convertor. Want to run on pump gas.
Got a few good quotes less than $3K delivered to my door and need to keep no higher than that.
Whats the difference between a short block and a long block? Most quotes are around 400 HP.
Last edited by donnie1956; 12-14-2012 at 08:55 AM.
#2
Short block comes without heads, long block has cylinder heads installed. Some crate engines have most of the tin on them like pan and valve covers etc. A good set of heads can be pretty expensive plus you're looking at the extra gaskets required unless they provide them with the short block. You will like the 200r4 but be careful about the high stall converter if your rear end gears are too high because it will really heat your tranny fluid during in town driving. I have 3.08 gears with a 2000 stall converter and I feel it's about borderline.
#3
Race Director
I would not buy a crate engine, something goes wrong, who pays shipping after they get it back ( on your dime ) and then tell you it was something you did that made it blow, now your in so deep you tell them to fix it (on your dime ) and the send it back to you ( again you pay ) with no guarantee it won't blow up again.
The prices for crate engines can be quite attractive, usually because the use the cheapest parts assembled by a 15 year old kid. I would get a motor built locally, even then it hard to get them to fix their mistakes most of the time, they'll always blame it on you unless you find an honest shop owner, about as rare as an honest used car salesman
If you want a crate motor go to your local GM dealer and find out what they have to offer
The prices for crate engines can be quite attractive, usually because the use the cheapest parts assembled by a 15 year old kid. I would get a motor built locally, even then it hard to get them to fix their mistakes most of the time, they'll always blame it on you unless you find an honest shop owner, about as rare as an honest used car salesman
If you want a crate motor go to your local GM dealer and find out what they have to offer
Last edited by MotorHead; 12-14-2012 at 11:53 AM.
#4
Safety Car
A $3000.00 dollar crate engine will be tough to find if you want quality. To build a decent engine for that amount would cost you less and still be tough to stay under 3k. I haven't checked in a while but the zz383 is 5900.00 and that's about the bottom of quality crate engines. You might check year one and cnc-motorsports.
#5
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Crate
[QUOTE=MotorHead;1582566885]I would not buy a crate engine, something goes wrong, who pays shipping after they get it back ( on your dime ) and then tell you it was something you did that made it blow, now your in so deep you tell them to fix it (on your dime ) and the send it back to you ( again you pay ) with no guarantee it won't blow up again.
The prices for crate engines can be quite attractive, usually because the use the cheapest parts assembled by a 15 year old kid. I would get a motor built locally, even then it hard to get them to fix their mistakes most of the time, they'll always blame it on you unless you find an honest shop owner, about as rare as an honest used car salesman
If you want a crate motor go to your local GM dealer and find out what they have to offer [/QUOTE
I sort of agree with you IF you have a local shop that you can trust. But if you don't know of one, or know someone who knows someone, the local shop is just as risky as a crate. Places like Blueprint Engines are huge, and sell throught Jegs and Summit, so if they were really that bad, I think Jegs and Summit would not be selling them i.e. if people were returning them regularly. I find it all very difficult, and almost to the point I don't trust any of them and will do it myself.
The prices for crate engines can be quite attractive, usually because the use the cheapest parts assembled by a 15 year old kid. I would get a motor built locally, even then it hard to get them to fix their mistakes most of the time, they'll always blame it on you unless you find an honest shop owner, about as rare as an honest used car salesman
If you want a crate motor go to your local GM dealer and find out what they have to offer [/QUOTE
I sort of agree with you IF you have a local shop that you can trust. But if you don't know of one, or know someone who knows someone, the local shop is just as risky as a crate. Places like Blueprint Engines are huge, and sell throught Jegs and Summit, so if they were really that bad, I think Jegs and Summit would not be selling them i.e. if people were returning them regularly. I find it all very difficult, and almost to the point I don't trust any of them and will do it myself.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have a local builder that will build a 383 400 HP for $2700 aluminum heads. 12 month 12K warranty. Whats wrong with this? He will even run in the engine on a stand while I watch. I don't see how he is making much money but he gave me a list of the parts and they look OK. I can't buy the parts and rebuild myself for that kind of money.
383 425hp 440tq
G.M. block, hot tanked, magnafluxed, bored, honed, decked, line honed, lifter bores trued
eagle 3.75 stroke crankshaft, rotating assembly balanced to within .5 gram
speedpro hyperutectic flat top pistons with durashield coated skirts
gm rods reconditioned, shot blasted, arp bolts installed
hastings moly rings
clevite trimetal bearings
melling hv oil pump, pickup, and hardend drive
melling dual row roller timing set
melling hyd cam and lifters, cam specs .488int .509ex lift 234 dur
melling hardend pushrods
S.I. aluminum cylinder heads, 64cc chambers, 195cc int runners, 2.02 int 1.6 ex stainless valves, screw in rocker studs, guide plates, dual springs, steel retainers and locks
roller tip rockers
new headbolts
felpro gaskets
new oil pan, timing cover, valve covers
balancer and flexplate
aluminum performer dual plane intake
ran to break in cam and ensure there are no leaks
383 425hp 440tq
G.M. block, hot tanked, magnafluxed, bored, honed, decked, line honed, lifter bores trued
eagle 3.75 stroke crankshaft, rotating assembly balanced to within .5 gram
speedpro hyperutectic flat top pistons with durashield coated skirts
gm rods reconditioned, shot blasted, arp bolts installed
hastings moly rings
clevite trimetal bearings
melling hv oil pump, pickup, and hardend drive
melling dual row roller timing set
melling hyd cam and lifters, cam specs .488int .509ex lift 234 dur
melling hardend pushrods
S.I. aluminum cylinder heads, 64cc chambers, 195cc int runners, 2.02 int 1.6 ex stainless valves, screw in rocker studs, guide plates, dual springs, steel retainers and locks
roller tip rockers
new headbolts
felpro gaskets
new oil pan, timing cover, valve covers
balancer and flexplate
aluminum performer dual plane intake
ran to break in cam and ensure there are no leaks
Last edited by donnie1956; 12-14-2012 at 08:44 PM. Reason: More info
#8
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St. Jude Donor '05
yes it does
The fact its run in is a big plus
The fact its run in is a big plus
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Short block comes without heads, long block has cylinder heads installed. Some crate engines have most of the tin on them like pan and valve covers etc. A good set of heads can be pretty expensive plus you're looking at the extra gaskets required unless they provide them with the short block. You will like the 200r4 but be careful about the high stall converter if your rear end gears are too high because it will really heat your tranny fluid during in town driving. I have 3.08 gears with a 2000 stall converter and I feel it's about borderline.
I did quite a bit of research on the Blueprint engines and seems the only complaints come from people that don't own them. As far as fault for failure I would have to pull the engine no matter where I get it from and return to builder. Hopefully the run in by the builder will address any issues.
Last edited by donnie1956; 12-15-2012 at 09:29 AM. Reason: spelling
#10
Race Director
[QUOTE=iwasmenowhesgone;1582570103]
That's why I build them myself. Big difference in sending a motor half way across the continent and getting emails telling you how much it will cost to fix their mistake.
Finding a local shop you can go and have it out with them and the shipping is in the back of their truck, talking face to face and seeing for yourself what the problem is, is light years ahead of shipping 1000 miles and talking thru emails. The crate motor builder has you by the you know whats. What is Jegs going to do with it ?, "Oh we have a blown motor here, send him another one" no, they don't fix it or send you another one, they send it back to builder who in turn basically finds a way that the blown engine is customers fault. In that case no warranty...Personally I don't give sh*t but that's the way you do it. I've been on this forum for many years and all I am trying to do is prevent the guy who wants a new motor from gettting f'ed and believe me I have seen plenty.
I would not buy a crate engine, something goes wrong, who pays shipping after they get it back ( on your dime ) and then tell you it was something you did that made it blow, now your in so deep you tell them to fix it (on your dime ) and the send it back to you ( again you pay ) with no guarantee it won't blow up again.
The prices for crate engines can be quite attractive, usually because the use the cheapest parts assembled by a 15 year old kid. I would get a motor built locally, even then it hard to get them to fix their mistakes most of the time, they'll always blame it on you unless you find an honest shop owner, about as rare as an honest used car salesman
If you want a crate motor go to your local GM dealer and find out what they have to offer [/QUOTE
I sort of agree with you IF you have a local shop that you can trust. But if you don't know of one, or know someone who knows someone, the local shop is just as risky as a crate. Places like Blueprint Engines are huge, and sell throught Jegs and Summit, so if they were really that bad, I think Jegs and Summit would not be selling them i.e. if people were returning them regularly. I find it all very difficult, and almost to the point I don't trust any of them and will do it myself.
The prices for crate engines can be quite attractive, usually because the use the cheapest parts assembled by a 15 year old kid. I would get a motor built locally, even then it hard to get them to fix their mistakes most of the time, they'll always blame it on you unless you find an honest shop owner, about as rare as an honest used car salesman
If you want a crate motor go to your local GM dealer and find out what they have to offer [/QUOTE
I sort of agree with you IF you have a local shop that you can trust. But if you don't know of one, or know someone who knows someone, the local shop is just as risky as a crate. Places like Blueprint Engines are huge, and sell throught Jegs and Summit, so if they were really that bad, I think Jegs and Summit would not be selling them i.e. if people were returning them regularly. I find it all very difficult, and almost to the point I don't trust any of them and will do it myself.
Finding a local shop you can go and have it out with them and the shipping is in the back of their truck, talking face to face and seeing for yourself what the problem is, is light years ahead of shipping 1000 miles and talking thru emails. The crate motor builder has you by the you know whats. What is Jegs going to do with it ?, "Oh we have a blown motor here, send him another one" no, they don't fix it or send you another one, they send it back to builder who in turn basically finds a way that the blown engine is customers fault. In that case no warranty...Personally I don't give sh*t but that's the way you do it. I've been on this forum for many years and all I am trying to do is prevent the guy who wants a new motor from gettting f'ed and believe me I have seen plenty.
Last edited by MotorHead; 12-15-2012 at 09:57 AM.
#11
Safety Car
A lot of down talking of crate motors , personally I would much prefer a factory built GMPP motor over a rebuilt motor 10 times out of 10. Of those small percent who have issues my reading on forums shows far fewer bad crates then people who report crappy rebuilds.
Also there is just something about new that instills confidence in any auto part. I personally avoid any rebuilt part be it an alternator or starter or an engine.
Also there is just something about new that instills confidence in any auto part. I personally avoid any rebuilt part be it an alternator or starter or an engine.
#13
Le Mans Master
I have heard the same about GM crate engines-that GM only warranties the engine if they install it. I know it is not possible for everyone to rebuild their own engines but if my L-82 needs to get rebuilt, I would have the block and head work done by a reputable machine shop and then assemble it myself with some help from folks that do engine building either as a hobby or a living. For 3K I could build a pretty decent motor with very high quality parts that I know are there since I did it myself.
#14
Safety Car
What are s.I. heads? The eagle crank, hyper pistols and flat tapped cam shaft are the only things I don't like about the 383 that the ops can buy for $2700. What do you expect for 2700.And that don't mean you'd have issues with them it just means I wouldn't build with them but if you trust the guy that might be the route to go. The price is certainly right and if you know the guy and trust that he'll stand behind his work then you would be better off doing this. I got into a situation like this with my 700r4. the local transmission shop stood behind there work alright but my vette spent the majority of the summer in my car garage with the transmission out and at the tranny shop. The lesson I took away from this is someone who will stand behind there work doesn't compare to having it good and right from the start .
Last edited by bluedawg; 12-15-2012 at 02:46 PM.
#15
Safety Car
1
Whichever occurs first, months or mileage.
2
Parts and labor warranty
9
Parts-only warranty when sold over the counter OR to a qualified independent service center or parts and
labor when installed by a GM Dealer
#16
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C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
A little less HP but under 3 grand...
and a 2 year 50,000 mile warranty.
http://www.newgmengines.com/350-290_...te_engine.html
http://www.newgmengines.com/350-290_...te_engine.html
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What are s.I. heads? The eagle crank, hyper pistols and flat tapped cam shaft are the only things I don't like about the 383 that the ops can buy for $2700. What do you expect for 2700.And that don't mean you'd have issues with them it just means I wouldn't build with them but if you trust the guy that might be the route to go. The price is certainly right and if you know the guy and trust that he'll stand behind his work then you would be better off doing this. I got into a situation like this with my 700r4. the local transmission shop stood behind there work alright but my vette spent the majority of the summer in my car garage with the transmission out and at the tranny shop. The lesson I took away from this is someone who will stand behind there work doesn't compare to having it good and right from the start .
I have never assemble an engine before so not really interested in starting now. I could do it but have several other things to work on this car and hope to be back on the road this summer, and its not on my list of things I need to accomplish.
The fact that I can watch the run in before delivery is good enough for me.
#19
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If you can get it done by someone you know and trust watch the run in go for it. Seems safe to me.
Ive had real bad luck with the "best" machine shops out this way.
Settled on one that is a one man deal does it all himself. Otherwise you got an underpaid flunky puttting things together.
If I HAD to make a choice it would be a GM crate assuming I couldnt do it myself and had noone I really new. Stuff is brand new not rebuilt..that counts for something. You pay a little more but still- No rebuilder is going to warranty a performance motor they know will get hammered on.
Ive had real bad luck with the "best" machine shops out this way.
Settled on one that is a one man deal does it all himself. Otherwise you got an underpaid flunky puttting things together.
If I HAD to make a choice it would be a GM crate assuming I couldnt do it myself and had noone I really new. Stuff is brand new not rebuilt..that counts for something. You pay a little more but still- No rebuilder is going to warranty a performance motor they know will get hammered on.
#20
Safety Car
I've had two different friends that issues with eagle cranks. One broke on the dyno, one was far from being in spec. The first one might have been a fluke and the second one was made right. Your getting a warranty and the machinist is doing the assembly so you'll probably fair well. Big name builders offer engines with their stuff. I just hate having to redo any thing.