Options for "pushing out" rear wheels
I recently had some work done at a local hot rod shop and the owner warned me about the adapters saying he's had customers lose wheels, crash into ditches, etc from the adapters failing. I also heard that it puts too much stress on the rear wheel bearings.
What are my options to push out the rear wheels safely?
-Offset trailing arms? But don't these keep the bearing in the same location and only ebables you to put wider tires on with?
-New wheels? I really don't want to change the wheels as I like my '82 slotted wheels.
-hub centric adapters? My adapters are hub centric on the hub, but not the wheels themselves.
Please help, thanks!
Here is a test fitment of the '82 wheel before I had the tires mounted on. Sits way too much on the inside of the fender.

The adapters I had custom made.

How the 15" x 8" wheels sit after the adapters were mounted (how they should be, flush with the top of the fender).





I bought the MidAmerica 2 inch adapters and raised hell with them for about 5-6 years with 11 X 17 rear wheels. later as tech inspection rules changed I had them modified to the larger studs.
Wheel bearings are replaceable, but i have not had any problems






Sure there is. He could have the stock aluminum wheels widened by 2" (on the back side), use the 2" adapters to put the effective BS back to ~4", and then fill those oversize wells with 295/50R15's. In addition to looking very cool, that would also put the rear track width (at wheel CL) much nearer to stock, reducing any adverse bearing loads.
In any event, I'd suggest attaching wheel adapters to the original stubs with HD 1/2" studs, as this type of system doubles the chance of a lug bolt related failure. Also, with purchased (as opposed to custom fabricated) adapters, you'll have someone to blame (read, "sue") if something goes wrong with one.

TSW
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Dec 21, 2012 at 08:15 PM.

Sure there is. He could have the stock aluminum wheels widened by 2" (on the back side), use the 2" adapters to put the effective BS back to ~4", and then fill those oversize wells with 295/50R15's. In addition to looking very cool, that would also put the rear track width (at wheel CL) much nearer to stock, reducing any adverse bearing loads.
TSW
google Weldcraft and check out their website. Others on this forum have used them with great success.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Cdkouxk7Eh8jLw
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts











there are no issues with the spacers,
Neal

this is a 'Wilwood" wide 5, 2" spacer, for a limited application on smooth race tracks. they dont recommend them for the street where there's potholes, speed bumps. etc. although I'm sure they probably get used there. With the large inset that are around the lug bolts in the op's picture, it seems that if he hit a pothole hard enough, he could knock the wheel off center, and if he hit hard enough, he could shear lug bolts off. Thats where a 'hubcentric' adapter has the advantage. The hubcentric not only sits inside the wheel, but the oe hub sits inside the adapter providing a solid mount. I've seen the version in the op's picture, 'shear lugs', more than once. As cheap as the hubcentrics are, there's no reason not to be abit safer
hope this helps













this is a 'Wilwood" wide 5, 2" spacer, for a limited application on smooth race tracks. they dont recommend them for the street where there's potholes, speed bumps. etc. although I'm sure they probably get used there. With the large inset that are around the lug bolts in the op's picture, it seems that if he hit a pothole hard enough, he could knock the wheel off center, and if he hit hard enough, he could shear lug bolts off. Thats where a 'hubcentric' adapter has the advantage. The hubcentric not only sits inside the wheel, but the oe hub sits inside the adapter providing a solid mount. I've seen the version in the op's picture, 'shear lugs', more than once. As cheap as the hubcentrics are, there's no reason not to be abit safer
hope this helps
An aluminum adapter with the hubcentric lip can't be much stronger than the one without it. The shear resistance of an 1/8" lip of aluminum is rather low if I had to guess. I do agree it does help with centering the wheel while tightening the lug nuts.
The shear strength of the lugs are rather high (I've looked them up but don't remember them off the top of my head). Many factory vehicles have left the factory without hubcentric wheels.
I'm no expert on wheel adapters and will admit I've only seen a few vehicles with them and I've never seen a failure on a vehicle due to the adapter.
I did have a couple of our Mechanical Engineers look at them prior to me installing them on my car. The only recommendation was if I was concerned to clean the mating surfaces and use Loctite during the install.
I've herd of one failure here on the forum and I believe it was due to loose lug nuts.
I would imagine the clamping forces of the 5 studs is way beyond the shear protection of the 1/8" aluminum lip.
all good discussions
thanks
Neal
295's are too large on 8 inch wheel, and may look better from rear of car as they will not stick out beyond fender lip as in your posted photo. I recently installed 275's on rear of my 71,,,255's on front. Checked this out carefully, 295's not recommended for BFG anyhow.
An aluminum adapter with the hubcentric lip can't be much stronger than the one without it. The shear resistance of an 1/8" lip of aluminum is rather low if I had to guess. I do agree it does help with centering the wheel while tightening the lug nuts.
The shear strength of the lugs are rather high (I've looked them up but don't remember them off the top of my head). Many factory vehicles have left the factory without hubcentric wheels.
I'm no expert on wheel adapters and will admit I've only seen a few vehicles with them and I've never seen a failure on a vehicle due to the adapter.
I did have a couple of our Mechanical Engineers look at them prior to me installing them on my car. The only recommendation was if I was concerned to clean the mating surfaces and use Loctite during the install.
I've herd of one failure here on the forum and I believe it was due to loose lug nuts.
I would imagine the clamping forces of the 5 studs is way beyond the shear protection of the 1/8" aluminum lip.
all good discussions
thanks
Neal
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Dec 24, 2012 at 09:21 AM.





295's are too large on 8 inch wheel, and may look better from rear of car as they will not stick out beyond fender lip as in your posted photo. I recently installed 275's on rear of my 71,,,255's on front. Checked this out carefully, 295's not recommended for BFG anyhow.
Ran the BFG 295's for at least 10 years on stock Rally rims... not a single issue with the tires/rims/bearings or handling.






Neal








