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Options for "pushing out" rear wheels

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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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Default Options for "pushing out" rear wheels

My '69 came with fender flares and had 15x10" really rear wheels. I didn't like the Rally wheels and sold them after I picked up a set of '82 corvette 15x8 alloys. Once I put them on the car, the rears were sitting way inside the fender. So I had some custom made 2" adapters fabricated from a machine shop in NV. Installed them and they look great.

I recently had some work done at a local hot rod shop and the owner warned me about the adapters saying he's had customers lose wheels, crash into ditches, etc from the adapters failing. I also heard that it puts too much stress on the rear wheel bearings.

What are my options to push out the rear wheels safely?

-Offset trailing arms? But don't these keep the bearing in the same location and only ebables you to put wider tires on with?

-New wheels? I really don't want to change the wheels as I like my '82 slotted wheels.

-hub centric adapters? My adapters are hub centric on the hub, but not the wheels themselves.

Please help, thanks!

Here is a test fitment of the '82 wheel before I had the tires mounted on. Sits way too much on the inside of the fender.


The adapters I had custom made.


How the 15" x 8" wheels sit after the adapters were mounted (how they should be, flush with the top of the fender).
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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Leave it as is. Those adapters appear to be quality pieces, are beefy, solid billet it looks like. They will not break. Hot Rod guy is delusional.
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 02:54 PM
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There aren't any other options if you want to stay with the Vette rear end and wheels.
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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I'm not sure why you would have an adapter made since they are a common purchasable item.

I bought the MidAmerica 2 inch adapters and raised hell with them for about 5-6 years with 11 X 17 rear wheels. later as tech inspection rules changed I had them modified to the larger studs.

Wheel bearings are replaceable, but i have not had any problems
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by glackore
There aren't any other options if you want to stay with the Vette rear end and wheels.



Sure there is. He could have the stock aluminum wheels widened by 2" (on the back side), use the 2" adapters to put the effective BS back to ~4", and then fill those oversize wells with 295/50R15's. In addition to looking very cool, that would also put the rear track width (at wheel CL) much nearer to stock, reducing any adverse bearing loads.

In any event, I'd suggest attaching wheel adapters to the original stubs with HD 1/2" studs, as this type of system doubles the chance of a lug bolt related failure. Also, with purchased (as opposed to custom fabricated) adapters, you'll have someone to blame (read, "sue") if something goes wrong with one.


TSW

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Dec 21, 2012 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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bigger studs and bolts for the adopter is a good idea,also use loctie.I have 295/50R15s on stock 1980 rims,they sit 1/2" in farther then your tire.
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks


Sure there is. He could have the stock aluminum wheels widened by 2" (on the back side), use the 2" adapters to put the effective BS back to ~4", and then fill those oversize wells with 295/50R15's. In addition to looking very cool, that would also put the rear track width (at wheel CL) much nearer to stock, reducing any adverse bearing loads.
TSW
google Weldcraft and check out their website. Others on this forum have used them with great success.
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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put these on the rear of my C4, when I went to C6 Z06 wheels, hub-centric is alot safer due to your wheel being supported by the hub and lugs instead of just the lugs. you'll probably hear a lot of opinions.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Cdkouxk7Eh8jLw
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by garygnu
...I have 295/50R15s on stock 1980 rims,they sit 1/2" in farther then your tire.
You might can force-mount them onto 8's, but for better sidewall stability 295's really shouldn't be installed on that narrow a rim.
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
You might can force-mount them onto 8's, but for better sidewall stability 295's really shouldn't be installed on that narrow a rim.
275/60 should really be the max on an 8" wheel.
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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If you doubt the spacers you have take a look at the Willwood wide 5, 2" spacers for racing and than look at what you have.

there are no issues with the spacers,

Neal
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
...there are no issues with the spacers,
I hope that's not meant as a blanket statement on wheel spacers.
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
If you doubt the spacers you have take a look at the Willwood wide 5, 2" spacers for racing and than look at what you have.

there are no issues with the spacers,

Neal

this is a 'Wilwood" wide 5, 2" spacer, for a limited application on smooth race tracks. they dont recommend them for the street where there's potholes, speed bumps. etc. although I'm sure they probably get used there. With the large inset that are around the lug bolts in the op's picture, it seems that if he hit a pothole hard enough, he could knock the wheel off center, and if he hit hard enough, he could shear lug bolts off. Thats where a 'hubcentric' adapter has the advantage. The hubcentric not only sits inside the wheel, but the oe hub sits inside the adapter providing a solid mount. I've seen the version in the op's picture, 'shear lugs', more than once. As cheap as the hubcentrics are, there's no reason not to be abit safer
hope this helps
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
I hope that's not meant as a blanket statement on wheel spacers.
not at all,

ment for the ones he posted pics of in his post

Neal
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman

this is a 'Wilwood" wide 5, 2" spacer, for a limited application on smooth race tracks. they dont recommend them for the street where there's potholes, speed bumps. etc. although I'm sure they probably get used there. With the large inset that are around the lug bolts in the op's picture, it seems that if he hit a pothole hard enough, he could knock the wheel off center, and if he hit hard enough, he could shear lug bolts off. Thats where a 'hubcentric' adapter has the advantage. The hubcentric not only sits inside the wheel, but the oe hub sits inside the adapter providing a solid mount. I've seen the version in the op's picture, 'shear lugs', more than once. As cheap as the hubcentrics are, there's no reason not to be abit safer
hope this helps
The correct lug nuts have to be used with the wheels. Hitting a pot hole will not change the centering of the wheels if all is correct (loose or incorrect lugs). The relief around the lugs actually reduces the shearing effect on the stud.

An aluminum adapter with the hubcentric lip can't be much stronger than the one without it. The shear resistance of an 1/8" lip of aluminum is rather low if I had to guess. I do agree it does help with centering the wheel while tightening the lug nuts.

The shear strength of the lugs are rather high (I've looked them up but don't remember them off the top of my head). Many factory vehicles have left the factory without hubcentric wheels.

I'm no expert on wheel adapters and will admit I've only seen a few vehicles with them and I've never seen a failure on a vehicle due to the adapter.

I did have a couple of our Mechanical Engineers look at them prior to me installing them on my car. The only recommendation was if I was concerned to clean the mating surfaces and use Loctite during the install.

I've herd of one failure here on the forum and I believe it was due to loose lug nuts.

I would imagine the clamping forces of the 5 studs is way beyond the shear protection of the 1/8" aluminum lip.

all good discussions

thanks

Neal
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by AdamMeh
275/60 should really be the max on an 8" wheel.
295's are too large on 8 inch wheel, and may look better from rear of car as they will not stick out beyond fender lip as in your posted photo. I recently installed 275's on rear of my 71,,,255's on front. Checked this out carefully, 295's not recommended for BFG anyhow.
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
The correct lug nuts have to be used with the wheels. Hitting a pot hole will not change the centering of the wheels if all is correct (loose or incorrect lugs). The relief around the lugs actually reduces the shearing effect on the stud.

An aluminum adapter with the hubcentric lip can't be much stronger than the one without it. The shear resistance of an 1/8" lip of aluminum is rather low if I had to guess. I do agree it does help with centering the wheel while tightening the lug nuts.

The shear strength of the lugs are rather high (I've looked them up but don't remember them off the top of my head). Many factory vehicles have left the factory without hubcentric wheels.

I'm no expert on wheel adapters and will admit I've only seen a few vehicles with them and I've never seen a failure on a vehicle due to the adapter.

I did have a couple of our Mechanical Engineers look at them prior to me installing them on my car. The only recommendation was if I was concerned to clean the mating surfaces and use Loctite during the install.

I've herd of one failure here on the forum and I believe it was due to loose lug nuts.

I would imagine the clamping forces of the 5 studs is way beyond the shear protection of the 1/8" aluminum lip.

all good discussions

thanks

Neal
you brought up the 'wilwood', that arent recommended for street use, but that I think are safer than the ones the op posted due to clamping force location, and just the fact that they are made by 'wilwood'. I think you make some good points, but in my 40 plus years playin with other folks mistakes, I've seen them sheared off, probably for some of the reasons you mention, and the hub-centrics arent 1/8" at least mine arent, I havent measured them but, mine are almost 1/2" and a good 1/4" thick, its quite a bit more depending on maker , of course, the real cheap ones probably being less. Why argue against the op being a bit more safe? He probably has his family in the car with him at times. even if it was just me in the car, I wouldnt run those adapters he has in his picture. When I post here its from personal experience , not something I read or asked an engineer about. Adapters work, I dont like them but I use them cause I cant afford spendy wheels, but because of the insets around the lugs on the op's , I dont think they are the best to use. I've actually seen it, hope this helps.

Last edited by oldalaskaman; Dec 24, 2012 at 09:21 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Sxrxrnr
295's are too large on 8 inch wheel, and may look better from rear of car as they will not stick out beyond fender lip as in your posted photo. I recently installed 275's on rear of my 71,,,255's on front. Checked this out carefully, 295's not recommended for BFG anyhow.
That is incorrect unless they changed it. They have 8in rim minimum for their 295/50/15's when I bought a set for my stock aluminum rims. I would not have mounted them if it was not recommended by BFG. I ran them for a few years with no problems on my stock rims.
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
That is incorrect unless they changed it. They have 8in rim minimum for their 295/50/15's when I bought a set for my stock aluminum rims. I would not have mounted them if it was not recommended by BFG. I ran them for a few years with no problems on my stock rims.


Ran the BFG 295's for at least 10 years on stock Rally rims... not a single issue with the tires/rims/bearings or handling.
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
you brought up the 'wilwood', that arent recommended for street use, but that I think are safer than the ones the op posted due to clamping force location, and just the fact that they are made by 'wilwood'. I think you make some good points, but in my 40 plus years playin with other folks mistakes, I've seen them sheared off, probably for some of the reasons you mention, and the hub-centrics arent 1/8" at least mine arent, I havent measured them but, mine are almost 1/2" and a good 1/4" thick, its quite a bit more depending on maker , of course, the real cheap ones probably being less. Why argue against the op being a bit more safe? He probably has his family in the car with him at times. even if it was just me in the car, I wouldnt run those adapters he has in his picture. When I post here its from personal experience , not something I read or asked an engineer about. Adapters work, I dont like them but I use them cause I cant afford spendy wheels, but because of the insets around the lugs on the op's , I dont think they are the best to use. I've actually seen it, hope this helps.
old, not ment as an argument, you've shared your experiences and I've shared mine to try and help the OP make a decision on how to resolve his issue.

Neal
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