I'm looking for some advice on what clutch and flywheel to use when I convert my '79 automatic to manual. I have a 168 tooth flexplate on my transmission, and I don't want to change my starter so I need a 168 tooth flywheel. The ones I have looked at are drilled for the 10.5 and 11" clutches. Is there any reason to use a 10.5" clutch when the 11" is an option?

Now for the flywheel. I had a 15 lb. flywheel in a small block Monza and it screamed! Of course that car was a couple hundred pounds lighter, had 3.73 gears and 14" tires. Am I gong to like that flywheel in a heavier car with 3.55 gears and 15" tires? Or do I need to look at a heavier flywheel?

 

I have a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, 13 lbs., 168 tooth, 11" with a Centerforce DF clutch. I ran it with a 4 speed for a while, and re-installed it with the T56 6 speed that I have now. Also, I have 370 gears and 17" tires. Not sure if it helps, but here's a short video of mine with the 4 speed.

 

Sweeeeeet! What do you have under the hood? And do you ever have trouble launching or doing a burnout? And what are you running for mufflers? They sound great.

 

Thanks 383, but 40 over, so 385 stroker. Headman Headers with Sweet Thunder early C3 stock style sidepipes. I really haven't beat on it much, but when I do get on it, it grabs and pulls hard. It'll do a burnout, but need room because it will take off really quick. 275/40 ZR17 Nitto NT555 Extreme tires all around grip really good. Here's another video so you can see the rest of it.

 

Nice ride! I think you're going to have to upgrade your speedo, though.

Did you have to do anything to adapt the Z06 wheels?

 

Better check whatever you buy for balance! Don't ask how I know! I recently had a pressure plate delievered out of balance .. and no it was not a cheap offshore piece, but something made here in the USA

 

Yeah, that's not a problem. The engine is externally balanced and when I built it I had the crank, damper, and flex plate balanced together. I don't know what parts had weight added or removed, so I'm going to have to send the flex plate and flywheel out so the flywheel can be balanced to duplicate the flex plate.

What I want to hear from guys is how they like their flywheel. I have pretty much decided to go with an 11" clutch. The General felt it was necessary to use the larger clutch on their high performance vehicles, so I don't see any reason to go with the smaller clutch.

My concern is that a lightweight flywheel may not store enough energy for an effective launch. And that's the most fun part of driving a stick, isn't it?

 

Thanks! I installed an Autometer Cobalt Digital Speedometer/ Tach Combo in place of my speedometer. Good for 160 mph. Wheels have 2.5" wheel adapters all around.

 

I am using a RAM clutch and a McLeod flywheel.



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-98764hd

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-460130

 

How do you like the flywheel? 30 lbs....You should have a great launch. How's it rev? What do you have for an engine? You ever driven a car with a lightweight flywheel?

 

No problems with the clutch or flywheel. They told me the clutch would chatter on takeoff, it barely does, and not all the time. The engine revs fine, it is a healthy 406 small block making over 500hp. I have driven a car with a lightweight flywheel; I had to use a steel flywheel as per RAM, and I did not find a lightweight 168t steel one for use with an 11" clutch.

 

You'll have to change your starter either way. Auto starters won't work with the manual bellhousing.

 

If you're going to beat on it very often, I'd urge you to go with SFI rated clutch assembly components and a scattershield.

And, if your definition of spirited driving includes things other than drag racing, you should be aware that the lighter the flywheel the more quickly you'll be able to sync revs when upshifting and downshifting.

FWIW, Hays 15# SFI aluminum flywheel with steel insert here. Heavier ones slow shifting down far too much for my liking, not to mention break a lot more parts. My $.02

 

Call Spec Clutches and ask for Dave. Tell him what your setup is and they will set you up with the best clutch I've ever used. I've been thru too many clutches in my 93 z 28 to remember them all. I started with a Centerforce DF clutch and it would never disengage once it was warmed up. Putting the car in reverse was grinding experience. I then went to a SLP lightweight pressure plate (a stock pressure plate with a bunch of holes on the outside edge) with a McLoed Disc, this setup was ok good engagement. Zoom clutches use some cheap Chinese throwout bearings and the stock pressure plate ripped the throwout bearing apart on two different clutches. The second one Advance Auto parts wouldn't warrantee because they deleted my entire service record. At this time I had already installed a Spec stage 2 clutch with aluminum flywheel in my vette with a t56, its the smoothest grippier than stock clutch I've ever driven. The flywheel was a piece of art and I felt bad hiding it in the bellhousing. So I ordered a stage 0 clutch for my camaro (stock for the most part now) and its also as smooth as can be.

They do mod the pressure plates to give you a very short pedal for quicker shifts. it takes a little getting used to but once you do the shifts are quick and precise. I have the stage 2 behind a 438 big block with about 500hp and it never slips.

 

That's interesting. Never heard that before and I can't imagine why. What makes you say the starter won't work?

 

I used the same starter with my TKO-600 that I previously used with my TH-400.


*EDIT* I should have added to my post that the starter I am using is an aftermarket mini type. Maybe there is an issue with stock type starters when converting auto to manual.

 

When I did my swap to a manual from auto,168t F/W the starter had to be changed...Recommend you go with a billet F/W,and a P/P from a reputable company.Keisler has a good reputation for this type of swap.Avoid the offshore junk as much as possible.You don't want to be doing this type of job twice.Here's my write up on the swap...http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...am-change.html

 

Why did you have to change your starter?

 

The factory style auto starter has a fatter nose and will not clear the opening on the bellhousing. If its an aftermarket mini starter it wont matter

I run a Mcleod street pro [or whatever its called]. Clutch has a nice pedal feel, unfortunately I got too rough with it too early after I put it in, and it does chatter a bit when hot

 

I think that the rule on C-3's and fly wheels is: Lower HP and Lower rpm motors need heavier fly wheels. like the 30 - 40 pound class. 168 tooth will have more inertia than a 153 tooth flywheel of equal weight. An 11 inch clutch of equal material and spring pressure will have more holding power than it's 10.5 inch little brother.
I think people fail to realize that it is the total reciprocating weight. From the Damper, crank, flywheel that you total up when comparing setups. some pully weight, 10 pound damper, 54 pound stock SBC crank, and 15 pound aluminum. That exceeds 70 some pounds. Where motor B has a 5 pound damper, 42 pound light weight forged crank, and a 22 pound billet steel 168 tooth also totals about the same 70 some pounds.
Then when the tranny is in gear you add all the rotating weight clear back to the weight of the tires. So things like lite weight wheels come into effect